This cabaret singer and tour guide takes you through 2000 years of queer history in London

Dinogo Planet’s People You Meet series highlights individuals we believe you should encounter on your travels – those who leave a lasting impact and enrich your connection with the destination.

“Choose any building in London from any era, and it will have queer figures in its story,” says Mark T. Cox as we gather in a small group outside The Clermont Hotel in Charing Cross, the starting point for the Queer History Walking Tour. “Drop a pin anywhere in London, and you could conduct this tour: Vauxhall, Earl’s Court, Dalston.”

The route Mark has selected to illustrate 2000 years of queer history lies in central London: the West End, guiding us from Charing Cross through Trafalgar Square and Piccadilly Circus to Chinatown and Soho. The tours operate on a pay-what-you-can basis, making this fascinating history accessible to everyone.

Mark is deeply familiar with the city's queer scene. A former organist at a small local church in County Clare, he relocated to Dublin at 17 to pursue a cabaret career at The George, Ireland's oldest queer venue.

About a decade ago, he settled in London and has since become a well-known figure in many of the city’s queer venues. As a pianist, entertainer, storyteller, and comedian (often sporting a charming big dickie bow), he frequently performs at places like The Glory, Dalston Superstore, CellarDoor, and the London Irish Centre, where he brings a warm, uplifting presence to the audience. Evenings with Mark feature piano sing-alongs, queer anthems, and brilliantly crafted original stories.

Integrating his passion for queer culture into daytime activities has long been a goal for him. “My background is in architecture, and I wanted to lead these tours even before the pandemic. I’ve been doing them for two or three years now,” he shares. “I truly enjoy it – I conduct other tours, like Big Ben, but this one feels more significant.”

Queer history in London

From its inception with the Romans 2000 years ago, queer relationships have been woven into London's history. Back then, it was commonplace for two men to be partners, Mark explains. The LGBTIQ community's narrative has since unfolded at the very buildings and locations we visit today.

The notorious Buggery Act of 1533 criminalized queer relationships, a concept that originated in London and was later imposed worldwide through colonization. Notable figures, including Oscar Wilde, were imprisoned due to rumors about their sexuality, passing through the very sites we explore on our tour. Every fact and story shared carries an aura of compassion and warmth from Mark, interspersed with witty remarks and gentle humor reflecting his own experiences.

As we stroll through Trafalgar Square, it's buzzing with celebrations. Each June, this is where Pride sets up its main stage. 'This is where people come to hear someone from X Factor,' Mark quips. However, Pride has always been a blend of festivity and activism. 'This year, we'll see a renewed focus on protest, especially with the ongoing trans rights issues. There's much debate about the relevance of Pride; it's only been 50 years compared to 2000 years of punishment and criminalization,' he notes.

As we stroll past the majestic buildings of Piccadilly Circus, Mark shares that this area was once a hub for the queer community, a rundown neighborhood that underwent transformation in the 1850s. 'The beauty of this city is that you can turn a corner and find yourself in an entirely new locale,' he explains. We then cross into Chinatown, which also served as a queer hotspot, hosting large underground gatherings. The 24-hour teahouses here provided unofficial safe havens for patrons free from harassment.

'This was a way to tap into the 'pink pound.' In the 1800s, men had significant disposable income, often working for the government and palaces nearby. Staff would discreetly usher away straight patrons to create cozy safe spaces for queer individuals. However, while London boasts a rich history for queer men, the stories of women often remain overlooked,' Mark notes.

While men generally had more financial freedom, many spaces were off-limits to women. 'Historically, the landscape was predominantly shaped by queer men serving their own interests. Unfortunately, some of that inequality persists today,' Mark adds.

Creating community spaces

These venues became essential gathering spots for minority groups. The Shim Sham Club on Wardour Street was a notable hub in the 1930s, where the queer and Black communities united to enjoy jazz music. 'They began to support one another. Police would often flirt before making arrests.' We now venture into Soho, currently one of the city's largest queer neighborhoods, filled with flags and adult shops. 'In 1990, Village opened its doors, changing everything. Situated on the ground floor, it featured clear glass windows. For the first time, queer individuals could be seen as casually as patrons in a coffee shop or restaurant.' This development contributed to Soho's transformation into a more visible queer enclave. As we walk along Dean Street, we reflect on both the advancements and ongoing challenges in sexual health and stigma, ultimately arriving at Soho Square. Mark’s demeanor turns serious as we gather to bid farewell, marking the conclusion of our tour.

'I wish I could conclude this tour on a more uplifting note. We have a rich history, and I should be celebrating progress, but the reality is quite the opposite,' Mark shares. 'We are facing a concerning decline, especially over the past six months regarding trans issues. The levels of hatred and violence, including right here in Soho, have escalated, largely fueled by media narratives.'

This July, for the first time, Trans+ Pride will take center stage at Trafalgar Square. 'Previously, a lot of focus was on gay rights, but we need to channel that same energy into advocating for trans rights. This year's Pride is crucial; we must continue to fight for equal rights for all queer individuals. It shouldn’t fall solely on the queer community to carry this burden,' he emphasizes.

How to secure your spot

Mark T Cox's public tours are coordinated through London with a Local, which features a rotating selection of guides each week. Check Mark’s upcoming tour dates and reserve your spot via his website.