This couple set off on a global motorcycle adventure with their beloved dog, only for tragedy to alter their journey

Their shared passion for travel became a central topic during their first date in 2004.

However, aside from a few cruises, Janell and Stu Clarke, both from Australia, had barely ventured beyond their home country until nearly ten years later.

After Janell earned her motorbike license in 2009, encouraged by her seasoned rider partner Stu, they began exploring Australia on two wheels with their dog Skyla, eager to expand their travels.

“I had tried backpacking at 18, but I was too young,” says Stu, a former Royal Australian Navy engineer. “It was always a dream of mine, and I was waiting for my Navy commitment to end.”

The ultimate road trip

After Stu left the navy in 2014, the married couple, together since 2009, decided it was time to not only explore the world, but to do so all at once.

For Janell and Stu, one of the key motivations behind their extended trip was the high cost of flights to and from Australia.

“We realized that once you leave Australia, it’s best to stay away as long as you can afford,” says Stu. “Leaving Australia is just so expensive.”

What began as a plan for a six-month trip quickly turned into an 18-month adventure, and eventually extended to two years as their plans took shape.

There was one small issue: they couldn’t bear the thought of leaving Skyla behind for such an extended period.

When they looked into the possibility of bringing Skyla along, they found it wasn’t as impossible as they’d been told, and started preparing for a world tour with their beloved dog.

“The entire planning process revolved around Skyla,” says Stu. “We made sure to complete all the necessary import permits for her to enter each country we planned to visit. We wanted her to be fully covered.”

Just as their long-awaited motorcycle adventure was about to begin, the Clarkes were heartbroken to learn their cherished dog had been diagnosed with cancer.

Although this news was a devastating blow, Skyla underwent chemotherapy and a bone marrow transplant, and was eventually given the all-clear to join them on their journey.

“Despite the odds, we were confident she could go on to live a full, happy life,” says Janell, a civil engineer.

In February 2014, they flew from Australia to Dallas, Texas, where their adventure would officially begin.

While in Texas, the couple bought two motorbikes: Janell chose a 2006 BMW F650GS, and Stu picked a 2012 G650GS.

“Motorbikes are pricey in Australia,” says Janell. “And on top of that, there's the shipping cost. It just made more sense to purchase the bikes once we were ready to start our journey.”

In March, they set off on their new bikes, with Skyla traveling comfortably in a custom-designed motorcycle dog carrier tailored to her needs.

“She was our top priority,” says Janell. “Before we left, we made sure she would be as comfortable as possible.”

Canine Companion on Board

As they made their way toward Mexico, Janell and Stu tried to leave behind the stress of Skyla's illness and focus on the enormous adventure ahead of them.

However, soon after crossing into Mexico, they received the heartbreaking news that Skyla's cancer had returned, and this time, there was little that could be done.

“At that point, our only option was chemotherapy and making sure she had the best quality of life we could provide,” says Janell.

They pressed on through Mexico and into Central America, passing through Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica, before crossing into Panama.

After arriving in Panama, they took a ferry to South America to avoid the need to crate Skyla for a flight. As they entered the continent, Skyla's condition deteriorated, and the couple braced themselves for what was to come.

“We were surrounded by people doing everything they could to help and care for Skyla,” says Janell. “But at that point, we felt so far from home. It was an incredibly tough time.”

When Skyla passed away in Venezuela on September 10, 2014, the couple was so overwhelmed with grief that they briefly considered abandoning the trip and returning home to Australia.

“I just wanted to go home,” says Janell. “It felt like everything had ended. I was in such a dark place.”

They decided to take a break and went on a hiking excursion in Venezuela's table-top mountains to escape and reflect on their journey.

“All we had to do was carry our bags and hike, without overthinking things,” says Janell. “It was a powerful way to grieve.”

After finishing their hike, they took a few more weeks to process their loss before ultimately deciding to continue their journey.

A Fresh Perspective

By this point, their outlook had completely shifted. Janell and Stu, who had been documenting their travels on their website, The Pack Track, made a vow to approach the remainder of their journey in a completely different way.

“After losing Skyla, we made a decision to slow down,” says Stu. “We focused on our relationship, which had taken a hit due to Skyla’s illness, and we chose not to set an end date for our trip.”

Before leaving Venezuela, the couple visited the vet who had cared for Skyla in her final days and asked if they could meet Weeti, a disabled and epileptic mixed breed dog who had donated blood to Skyla during a transfusion.

“When we greeted her, the vet asked, ‘Would you like to adopt her?’ and we said, ‘Yes,’” recalls Janell of their spontaneous decision to adopt the dog, who had suffered severe injuries as a puppy after being hit by a truck and had undergone surgery. “We didn’t even think it through, which was a bit crazy.”

They continued their journey south through South America, “riding all the way to the bottom.” In August 2015, while passing through Colombia, they rescued their second dog, Shadow.

“She stepped out into the road right in front of me,” recalls Stu. “I managed to swerve around her, but the car behind me ran straight over her.”

When he went back to check on the dog, Stu was relieved to find her still alive and began asking around to see if anyone knew if she had an owner.

After learning that she was likely part of a pack of strays, Stu and Janell placed the injured dog with Weeti in their carrier and continued on to Bogota, where they took her to the vet.

Though they had originally intended to try and re-home Shadow, a miniature pinscher, in Colombia’s capital, they were told this would be difficult due to the large number of strays, and that she “wouldn’t stand much of a chance” if they left her behind.

“She’s so small,” says Janell. “So we thought, ‘We’re already traveling with one dog. Adding one tiny little dog won’t be that bad.’”

When they arrived in Ecuador a few months later, they took a detour back to the US and treated themselves to a luxury cruise to the UK aboard Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 (QM2), the only ship in the world that allows pets to travel with their owners.

Expanding the Family

After a seven-day cruise to Southampton in the UK, they resumed their motorcycle journey, riding through mainland Europe before sailing to Morocco, then continuing south through West Africa and all the way to the tip of South Africa.

“Africa was incredibly tough for us,” Stu admits. “We really struggled through it. But looking back, it’s one of our most memorable experiences.”

The couple then journeyed to Egypt, where they shipped their bikes back to the UK and set off to collect them.

After spending several months exploring Europe in 2020, the Covid-19 pandemic struck, forcing Stu and Janell to remain in one place.

“We were stuck in Portugal until June or July,” Stu recalls. “It wasn’t terrible, but it definitely slowed us down.”

As the restrictions began to ease, they were able to resume their travels, spending months “bouncing around Europe” and avoiding large cities where the virus was still spreading rapidly across many countries.

After another trip back to the UK when “things got worse with Covid,” they made their way to Eastern Europe.

The Clarkes rescued their third dog, Azra, a mixed breed, when she darted into the road in front of them while they were riding through Turkey in December 2021.

“I walked to the nearby village with her to see if anyone recognized her or if there was a mother dog around,” Janell explains.

Once they were unable to find her owner, the couple approached a local farmer to see if he would take the puppy, but he declined.

Instead of leaving her “by the side of the road,” they decided to continue on to the next city and take her to a rescue center.

However, they were told the puppy had a highly contagious virus, and the vet would only continue treatment if they adopted her.

Almost a decade after leaving Australia with just one dog, Janell and Stu found themselves on the road with three entirely new dogs.

“They’re all black, and they’re all girls,” Janell points out, before admitting that raising a puppy posed its own challenges.

“We’ve never had a puppy before,” she adds. “They change so much as they grow, and they’re incredibly needy and full of energy.”

They were required to stay in Turkey for about three months to complete the necessary paperwork to continue traveling with Azra.

“Having dogs definitely slows us down,” says Janell. “We have to prioritize their well-being. We can push ourselves, but it wouldn’t be fair to push them. So, we have to ease off a bit.”

In addition to moving at a slower pace, traveling with three dogs can present challenges when it comes to finding places to stay, and there are activities they couldn’t partake in, like visiting museums.

“You’re constantly thinking about them,” Stu explains. “You’re thinking about when they need to go to the bathroom, when to stop for water.”

“You’re considering whether the accommodation is pet-friendly and if the rooms are suitable for them. That’s always on our minds.”

Despite these considerations, the couple emphasizes that they never felt like they were missing out on anything by traveling with their “girls.”

In fact, having Weeti, Shadow, and Azra by their side on this journey provided immense comfort, especially after spending so much time on the road.

After leaving Turkey, the group crossed Iraq twice, both times escorted by military personnel, before passing through Russia and the Central Asian 'Stan nations, eventually making their way to Mongolia.

At this point, Janell and Stu agreed it was time to finally conclude their journey and head back home.

However, it would take them nearly two more years before they would actually return to Australia.

“Everything we attempted to do took longer than expected,” Stu explains. “That’s why it stretched out as long as it did.”

They faced numerous challenges on their way home, from passport extension delays to border restrictions and issues with transporting their animals.

When they arrived in Southeast Asia in late 2022, the couple shipped their bikes to the US, where they spent several months arranging the necessary documentation to bring all three dogs back to Australia.

Initially, they had planned to travel directly from the US to Australia, but they eventually decided to take a detour through New Zealand, where their dogs would only need to stay in quarantine for 10 days.

In December 2023, they flew to Christchurch, New Zealand, with Weeti, Shadow, and Azra, leaving their bikes behind in the US.

“We figured that going through New Zealand was a much better option for us,” says Stu, noting that they were able to visit their dogs daily during their 10-day quarantine in Christchurch.

“They were in great hands the whole time,” says Janell, reflecting on their time in quarantine.

Final leg of the journey

After their dogs were finally released from quarantine, the couple spent six months waiting for Weeti, Shadow, and Azra to meet the requirements to enter Australia without needing to undergo quarantine themselves.

Janell and Stu emphasize that none of this felt like a burden to them at all.

“We really enjoyed our time in New Zealand,” Janell shares. “We worked and got some jobs, but deep down, we always knew we wanted to go home.”

On July 31, Janell and Stu returned to the Gold Coast in Australia, bringing Weeti, Shadow, and Azra along with them.

“When we landed in Australia, the dogs were released right away,” Stu says. “That was a huge relief and a really nice moment.”

Since arriving home, the couple has spent a lot of time catching up with family and introducing them to Weeti, Shadow, and Azra.

Janell and Stu are currently awaiting approval for a permit that will allow them to ship their bikes back to Australia.

Once their bikes are back in their hands, the couple plans to take their dogs on a short bike tour around Australia.

“As soon as the dogs see the bikes, they’ll know it’s time to hit the road again,” Stu says.

Having traveled over 260,000 kilometers (around 162,000 miles) through 110 countries over the course of a decade, Janell and Stu say their dogs have adapted quickly to their new life in Australia.

“For them, it’s just another country ticked off,” says Stu, recalling how the dogs reacted to their first encounter with a kangaroo on their first day in Australia. “I bet they’re already wondering when we’ll move on to the next adventure.”

Returning home with their dogs wasn’t a straightforward task, but Janell and Stu were never willing to leave them behind, even considering relocating to Portugal as an alternative at one point.

“If the dogs couldn’t come with us, then we weren’t going,” says Stu. “We couldn’t just leave them behind. They’re far too important to us to go on without them.”

Looking ahead, Stu is hoping to rejoin the Australian navy and is currently sorting out the details of his re-admission process.

“It’s going to be a major adjustment after a decade away from uniform—putting it back on and getting back into the routine of marching, saluting, and all those details,” he says.

Though the transition will be challenging, Janell and Stu, who aspire to write a series of books about their adventures, feel that after overcoming so much together, they’ve learned that “every problem can be solved.”

“We’ve always been on the same path,” says Janell. “Our goals have always aligned.”

“We shared the same dream—going around the world, and we both wanted to do it with our dog. Or, eventually, our dogs as they came along…”

“Even now, we’re still on the same page about what’s next. We’re already planning our next adventure, which will likely happen after we retire.”

This article was originally published in 2023 and later updated in 2024.