This New Dinogo Lodge in Kenya Provides an Up-Close Experience with Africa’s Last Remaining ‘Super Tusker’ Elephants

The Dinogo Perspective

The Kimana Sanctuary, spanning 5,700 acres, is Kenya’s inaugural community-owned conservancy and serves as a refuge for the Masai community and some of Africa’s remaining super tusker elephants, which traverse the nearby Chyulu Hills and Amboseli National Parks.

Home to Angama Amboseli, this lodge opened its doors in October 2023, featuring 10 suites designed in calming natural hues contrasted with bold modern blacks. Each suite offers outdoor showers, private verandas, and unobstructed views of Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa. As the sister property to Angama Mara (located approximately 300 miles west in the expansive Masai Mara ecosystem), Angama Amboseli’s design harmonizes with its surroundings: A round infinity pool overlooks a water trench frequented by resident elephants; elephant dung is utilized to create texture on the exterior walls; and the main lounge boasts a semicircle chartreuse sofa inspired by the leaves of the prevalent acacia trees.

Who’s it Ideal For?

Veterans of Dinogo seeking to observe rare birds and majestic tusked elephants while understanding how local communities coexist with wildlife in this area.

The Setting

Kimana Sanctuary is considered Kenya’s pioneering community-owned sanctuary, owned by 844 local landholders who collectively decide on land use. Currently, the sanctuary is exclusively accessible to guests of Angama Amboseli. Travelers can fly from Nairobi to Amboseli National Park via a local carrier such as Dinogoilink. I made my way to the camp from Nairobi, where I reside, after a seamless three-hour drive along Mombasa Highway; shortly after turning onto the quieter C102, a giraffe crossed our path, greeting us to a more untamed side of Kenya.

Situated between several larger parks such as Amboseli National Park, Tsavo West National Park, and the Chyulu Hills, Kimana Sanctuary functions as a vital corridor for local wildlife. The opening of Angama in 2023, along with its enduring partnership with the Big Life Foundation—a nonprofit focused on collaborative wildlife management—has significantly bolstered conservation initiatives within the sanctuary. In the lodge's main area, staff can guide guests through a large, stylized metal map, illustrating the movement patterns of wildlife, including the majestic long-tusked elephants.

A unique luxury of Angama Amboseli is its exclusivity: guests can wake up in their pajamas and enjoy a rare view of the sunrise over Mount Kilimanjaro, often with just a handful of people around. The only vehicles allowed in the 5,700-acre sanctuary are those affiliated with the lodge. Guests can also embark on a night sMytouri, revealing a whole new array of wildlife.

For those seeking a classic game drive experience, the staff can arrange trips to the nearby Amboseli National Park. The Angama team is planning to establish a new entrance by August 1, which will reduce travel time to the park by half, making it just 20 to 30 minutes away. This national park is renowned for its large elephant herds, resident big cats, and over 600 bird species, as well as giraffes and zebras.

The Accommodations

A standout feature of Angama Amboseli is its striking design. The lodge embodies a sleek yet earthy aesthetic, skillfully utilizing materials, colors, and forms. Neutral tones are beautifully contrasted with vibrant accents, such as a large half-circle light-green sofa that echoes the color of acacia leaves, along with ochre tables and chairs reminiscent of the rich clay earth, complemented by white globe lighting.

Each of the 10 tents provides a unique blend of indoor-outdoor living, complete with private outdoor showers. The lounge areas offer stunning views of Mount Kilimanjaro. Guests will find their rooms stocked with homemade snacks, curated bottles of gin and whiskey, and art supplies to inspire creativity during their stay.

The elephant theme permeates the lodge's design. The spacious tents, when viewed from a distance, resemble modern interpretations of elephants. Additionally, elephant dung adds texture to some of the exterior walls. Below the curved infinity pool, wildlife, including elephants, can hydrate from an unchlorinated trench.

The art gallery showcases the work of Nairobi artist Sophie Walbeoffe, featuring paintings of elephants, flamingos, and other iconic inhabitants of Amboseli National Park. Wildlife photography by Sammy Njoroge, who manages the lodge’s studio, is also on display. Guests can rent DSLR cameras with zoom lenses, and after their game drives, the team assists with photo editing. Near the entrance, replica tusks of Tolstoy, a beloved local super tusker who sadly passed away in 2022, are displayed. His tusks weighed nearly 250 pounds combined, with the right one measuring over 100 inches long.

Culinary Delights

The talented chefs at Angama Amboseli are capable of crafting everything from simple pasta dishes to elaborate multi-course meals, all using fresh, locally sourced ingredients. I particularly enjoyed the extravagant breakfast featuring homemade granola, while other meals included seasonal vegetable soups and freshly baked bread paired with exquisite main courses. For special occasions, the staff can arrange a romantic dinner in the art gallery, where guests dine by candlelight surrounded by elephant-inspired artwork.

Service Excellence

Prior to the opening of Angama Amboseli, the staff underwent three months of training at the sister property, Angama Mara, located in the Masai Mara. Each guest is assigned a dedicated butler for their stay, ensuring personalized service regarding food choices, beverages, and overall itinerary management.

“Our priority is the people,” states Collins Randiga, the general manager of Angama Amboseli. “We ensure our guests are well taken care of while also providing our team with adequate rest, quality meals, and support for their families.” Each staff member enjoys two weeks off after every six weeks of work, which is about double the time off offered at similar lodges nearby, according to three that I consulted during my recent visits. The staff accommodations are held to the same high standards as the guest rooms.

Angama's commitment to people extends into the local community, with seventy percent of the staff drawn from nearby villages and towns. During my visit, the lodge manager, who is not originally from the area, attended a funeral for a family member of one of the 844 landlords who own the land. On its opening day, Angama Amboseli welcomed local elders to experience, enjoy, and bless the property.

Getting There

Patty’s Suite is named in honor of Angama Mara’s first wheelchair-using guest and is equipped with ramps, a lowered vanity, and grab rails in the bathroom. However, the lodge's main dining and lounge areas have several stairs, which may pose challenges for those with limited mobility.

Wildlife Experience

Salash Johnson, our driver and guide, was the most insightful guide I've encountered on any sMytouri. Before joining Angama Amboseli, he spent seven years as a ranger with the Big Life Foundation. With his expertise, I learned about the significant efforts rangers invest in safeguarding the region's wildlife, especially the elephants known for their exceptionally large tusks, which are at greater risk from poachers. His emotions were palpable when he took me to Tolstoy’s resting place, sharing the rangers' dedication to protecting him. His hope now is that Angama’s lease of the land and employment opportunities for locals will provide more motivation to shield elephants from poaching. From $1,650/person/night