This New Luxury Yacht Will Navigate the Galápagos — and Take You to Snorkel with Penguins

I never realized snorkeling with penguins was on my bucket list until it became a reality.

Perched on the edge of the yacht, dressed in a full wetsuit, I was mustering the courage to plunge into the chilly 68-degree waters off Santiago Island in the Galápagos. As I dipped my toe in, a shiver ran through me.

"Pingüino, pingüino!" shouted a daring snorkeler who had already taken the plunge. That was all the motivation I needed.

During my second visit to the Galápagos Islands, my main goal was to finally see the world's northernmost penguins, which I had missed on my previous trip. This incredible underwater encounter with the charming little birds — who floated among our group of swimmers before gracefully gliding away — occurred on the third day. In fact, I spotted them three times at two different snorkeling spots off Santiago Island, and again the next day at a completely different island.

On this journey, I was exploring the Galápagos aboard Aqua Expeditions' new Aqua Mare, the first superyacht to establish a permanent presence in the volcanic archipelago. Since founding the expedition company in 2007 and launching a riverboat in the Peruvian Amazon, Francesco Galli Zugaro had always dreamed of bringing a ship to the Ecuadorian islands. A few years ago, his chance finally arrived. He envisioned a yacht tailored for the destination, but just as construction was set to commence, the pandemic hit. Instead of facing potential delays at the shipyard, Zugaro opted to acquire an existing vessel, the 163.3-foot Dr. No No, and adapt it to suit his needs.

Renamed the Aqua Mare upon joining the Aqua Expeditions fleet, the yacht preserves many of its original characteristics, such as the refined wood paneling found in the cabins and communal areas. These include a living room with a bar, a dining room, and a "beach club" that serves as both a lounge and a snorkeling preparation area. Additionally, there are two outdoor spaces: another dining room and a rooftop sun deck that doubles as a third dining venue complete with a hot tub. Zugaro also added two cabins, increasing the ship's capacity to 16 guests across seven staterooms, with the highlight being the expansive 861-square-foot Owner's Suite.

"Booking a cabin on a superyacht like this is quite a rare opportunity," Zugaro shares with me over lunch on the sun deck during our voyage, emphasizing that most yachts require full charters. "That Owner's Suite is the premier suite in the Galápagos. It's stunning, truly stunning. But being able to reserve it without having to rent the entire ship — that's a delightful perk," he adds.

This setup creates a fascinating mix of passengers. While most trips will likely feature a diverse array of groups, including couples, families, and perhaps solo travelers, my journey began with just two: me and a family of nine spanning three generations. (Zugaro and his family joined us midway through the adventure.)

Initially, I worried about the potential awkwardness of being the odd one out in a vacationing family, especially since we spoke different languages. However, as Zugaro later reminded me, everyone who books a cabin on the Aqua Mare does so with the expectation of sharing the ship, fostering a friendly atmosphere. This was certainly the case with the wonderful family I traveled with. After a few shared meals of exquisite Latin American dishes — many featuring seafood — we felt like one big family. We even took plenty of "family" photos to commemorate the experience.

The Aqua Mare truly lives up to its name, not just in its exquisite dining but also in the array of activities available to guests. We typically found ourselves in the rather, shall we say, invigorating waters at least twice daily, in addition to several kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding excursions. Each day, we also set foot on land, traversing rugged lava flows, climbing the Mars-like slopes of a volcano, or wandering along cliffs where pairs of waved albatross and blue-footed boobies cared for their eggs and chicks — all remarkable experiences in their own right.

During these aquatic escapades, I found myself, if you'll forgive the pun, like a fish out of water among my companions. Mi familia, as I affectionately called them, was a family of passionate scuba divers. In contrast, I had once harbored a fear of the deep sea, although years of informal exposure therapy have greatly improved my comfort levels. "We aim to encourage guests to step outside their comfort zones a bit," Zugaro explains, acknowledging that many, like me, are initially reluctant to spend extended periods in the chilly waters. "But that's when those unforgettable 'wow moments' happen," he adds.

While snorkeling off Bartolomé Island, we felt like we were floating among clouds above a vibrant sandy floor adorned with colorful sea stars. "It’s as if the sky has tumbled into the ocean," remarked our enthusiastic guide Yvonne Mórtola, who has lived in the Galápagos for nearly 40 years. Her favorite star is the speckled Nidorellia armata, affectionately called the chocolate-chip star for its appealing brown spines. I, on the other hand, was captivated by the vibrant patterns of the Pentaceraster cumingi, known as the Panamic cushion star.

As we glided along the shoreline, we encountered ancient lava flows that twisted and turned like the roots of trees found in the Ecuadorian rainforest. More imaginatively, they resembled the ruins of a mythical Amazonian city, straight out of a Hollywood film. While examining a particularly fascinating lava rock formation, I noticed that the school of black-striped salemas, which had been gently swaying beneath me with the tide, abruptly scattered in all directions.

Penguin.

A lone penguin darted past, leaving a trail of tiny bubbles in its wake, much like an airplane leaving a contrail. I left my perch to chase after it. After effortlessly outpacing me — not a hard feat — I turned just in time to see a whitetip reef shark gliding by, seemingly enjoying the spectacle as well. Such is life in the Galápagos.

Our last snorkeling adventures during the expedition didn't yield more encounters with my cherished Galápagos penguins. After all, they are an endangered species, with only about 2,000 remaining in the wild. However, I wasn’t let down. "Let’s go have fun with the sea lions," Yvonne beamed as she plunged into the water, and mi familia and I eagerly followed her lead.