This region of Mexico features soft sandy beaches, ancient Mayan ruins, and a breathtaking flamingo sanctuary.

This narrative could unfold in any location. What I mean is that this love story was less about the place and more about its significance. Isn’t that often the case with first loves? It could have involved anyone, but there's always a special quality in a "first."

I first explored Yucatan in my twenties on a solo backpacking journey across Mexico. This four-month escapade was dedicated to uncovering untamed, picturesque beaches, indulging in salsa-laden street food under neon lights late at night, delving into dense jungles to ascend ancient ruins, and connecting with fellow digital nomads over rich mezcal and shared tales. Indeed, this tale could have emerged from anywhere, as I began to fall in love with Mexico. Luckily, it all began in Yucatan.

I took the bus from Playa del Carmen, where I had just participated in the BPM music festival (the last one ever held in Playa del Carmen, following a tragic shooting at the Blue Parrot nightclub that permanently closed the event's original venue. The abandoned remains of the club still stand in the city.)

As a travel writer focused on Mexico, I had visited Cancun and Playa del Carmen numerous times. The all-inclusive resorts, trendy eateries, and lack of necessity for Spanish had become routine for me. This bus trip represented my first venture into the unfamiliar. How could I call myself a self-proclaimed "Mexpert" if I merely followed the tourist path? So, I set off north to the city of Mérida, the Yucatan state's capital. Back in 2017, Mérida was emerging as a destination, yet it was still far less popular than Cancun or Puerto Vallarta.

Mérida serves as the gateway to the Yucatan. This historic colonial city was a key stronghold for both the Mayans and the Spanish, who built upon its legacy. The Catedral de Mérida, constructed between 1562 and 1599, is the oldest church in the continental Americas and is located just off the Plaza Grande. However, the Yucatan's history goes back even further — millions of years — as it was near this peninsula that the asteroid struck that led to the extinction of the dinosaurs.

Today, Mérida is a lively, dynamic destination filled with plazas and wide, tree-lined streets like Paseo de Montejo. Your journey in Mérida should start here, as it is one of the city's most significant and renowned avenues. Modeled after the Champs-Elysees, it boasts several roundabouts and is bordered by beautifully adorned 19th-century mansions. Some of the city’s top museums, including the Museum of Anthropology and Casa Museo Quinta Montes Molina, are located here, with many homes offering history tours as well.

During my first visit to Mérida, I stayed at a hostel on Calle 60, another key thoroughfare tucked behind Paseo de Montejo in the historic center. At that time, the area thrived with backpackers. However, upon my return in November 2021, I noticed signs of digital nomad gentrification. The once-quiet Mercado 60 had transformed into a lively outdoor food park, featuring stalls with everything from traditional Yucatecan dishes to pizza, burgers, and wings. Weekly live music and events, like beer yoga, attracted both locals and tourists, reflecting Mérida's burgeoning class of young, affluent professionals.

The dining scene in Mérida is outstanding. This is precisely why, in 2017, I chose to prolong my stay in the city. What was meant to be a two-night stop before heading west to Campeche turned into five nights, all thanks to the food. I stumbled upon a cozy breakfast spot named El Barrio. On my first morning in Mérida, I arrived to find myself the sole patron. I indulged in rich huevos rancheros, drenched in salsa ranchera and topped with spicy sausage, queso fresco, and avocado. One bite had me eagerly returning each morning to sample everything else on the menu. The restaurant remains open today, although the menu has changed due to a shift in ownership; however, I have no doubt the quality remains impeccable.

In addition to El Barrio, eateries like the delightful Rosas y Xocolate Boutique Hotel elevate Yucatecan cuisine to new heights. Others, such as Salon Gallos, fuse Mexican flavors with Lebanese ingredients. Lebanese culinary traditions are significant in Yucatecan gastronomy, featuring dishes like kibbeh made with minced beef and onions, taquitos wrapped in grape leaves, and tacos arabe that use pita instead of tortillas. This is rooted in the history of Lebanese immigrants who arrived in Yucatan's Puerto Progreso while fleeing the Ottoman occupation of Lebanon.

You'll also encounter the classic street carts and quaint restaurants that pop into mind when you think of Mexico. These places serve regional specialties, including the famous cochinita pibil, sopa de lima, panuchos de pavo, and huevos motuleños. Many of these dishes can trace their origins back to the Maya. So yes, you can expect to enjoy fantastic food in Mérida — and throughout Yucatan as a whole.

Beyond the charm of Mérida's cobblestone streets, 16th-century Spanish architecture, and single-story buildings painted in shades of lime, turquoise, and ochre, there's so much more to discover.

Take the beaches, for instance. Yucatan features a northern coastline that hugs the Gulf of Mexico. Those sun-kissed beaches and warm, clear waters that entice visitors to the Riviera Maya? They exist in Yucatan, but in a much quieter setting. Don’t expect a barrage of all-inclusive resorts here — the coastline favors boutique, eco-conscious, and sustainable options.

However, keep in mind that the primary coastal city, Puerto Progreso, is quickly becoming a popular cruise destination, which may bring crowds. For now, the nearby villages of Celestún and Sisal maintain a tranquil vibe, with palm-fringed aesthetics and a relaxed pace. If your idea of a perfect beach vacation in Mexico involves lounging under a thatched palapa with a cold beer and a plate of fresh ceviche, the Yucatan coast could be your ideal getaway.

You can even arrange with local water taxis to venture into the Ría Celestún Biosphere Reserve to witness thousands of pink flamingos. Indeed, the Yucatan coast can be described in a vibrant turquoise and pink palette, especially if you plan to visit Las Coloradas. You’ve likely seen it on Instagram — these bubble-gum pink lakes are created through man-made salt production, drawing visitors from near and far to admire the striking contrast between the candy-colored pools and the adjacent turquoise sea.

Next, we have the ruins of Yucatan. Chichen Itza — one of Mexico's iconic sites — is found in this state, and while it is indeed breathtaking, it's merely a glimpse of the archaeological wonders hidden within the jungle.

In 2017, I took a bus for a day trip from Merida to Uxmal. This ancient Mayan city, one of Mexico's lesser-known ruins, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It showcases some of the finest examples of Mayan architecture, highlighted by the impressive Pyramid of the Magician. Yucatan serves as a gateway to other grand ruins in the area, such as Calakmul in neighboring Campeche and Palenque in the state of Chiapas.

For those fascinated by cenotes, Yucatan boasts some of the most stunning ones. The peninsula is home to around 3,000 known cenotes; these underground caves and river systems were crucial to the Mayan culture, believed to be portals to the underworld. Today, they stand as pristine examples of the peninsula's delicate ecosystem. Many are perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and scuba diving, with turquoise waters surrounded by hanging vines and illuminated by sunlight, making them a photographer's paradise.

While Yucatan may still be relatively unexplored by mainstream travelers, it is not exempt from development and transformation. In the fall of 2021, the region hosted one of the largest tourism conferences globally, attracting considerable media coverage. Exciting changes are underway as Merida is set to become a key train hub with the imminent launch of the Tren Maya, a high-speed rail service designed to connect significant sites throughout the Yucatan Peninsula. Additionally, Grupo Xcaret, known for its theme parks and hotels in Quintana Roo, has established a branded theme park near Chichen Itza called Xibalba, creating a curated tourism experience through a network of underground cenotes.

This isn't necessarily a negative development. Progress is unavoidable and, ideally, advantageous for the local communities in Yucatan. However, it will certainly bring changes. As someone dedicated to highlighting lesser-known travel destinations worldwide, I often feel a sense of loss when these cherished places become mainstream. Witnessing the locations that shaped my journey as a traveler—now showcased on social media—can be a bittersweet experience, much like seeing an ex move on with someone new who appreciates what made them special.

Ultimately, I likely would have fallen deeply for any destination in Mexico where I first ventured. This has happened before; I fell in love with Mexico when I discovered Puerto Vallarta in 2013. Yet Yucatan represented a pivotal moment in my evolution as a writer, traveler, and individual. It remains one of my enduring passions in life.