A hidden stretch of France’s coastline that rivals Nice

When you imagine the south of France, your mind likely drifts to the lavender fields of Provence and the glamorous Mediterranean hotspots like Nice, Cannes, and St. Tropez.

However, if you trace your finger southward from Paris on a map, you’ll land in the Occitanie region, where Aude and the coastal city of Narbonne present a far more serene, off-the-beaten-path perspective of the French south.

In this region, part of France's largest wine-producing area, Languedoc-Roussillon (now part of the Occitanie region since 2016), you’ll discover landscapes that range from sandy beaches and tranquil lagoons to rugged limestone plateaus dotted with serene lakes.

On hilltops, ancient castles and grand citadels stand as remnants of the Cathar resistance, a religious group that was persecuted during the 12th century for their heretical beliefs, making this area rich in both history and mystery.

Today, visitors flock to this region for its rich history and delightful surprises, where you can enjoy freshly harvested seafood from local lagoons and savor wines from Languedoc with the stunning Pyrenees mountains looming toward Spain. The charming coastal villages offer a laid-back vibe, worlds apart from the glitzy, crowded Côte d’Azur, which lies about 225 miles to the east.

A city with a rich Roman legacy – and one of France's best markets

Less than an hour from Narbonne, perched on the River Aude, lies the striking hilltop town of Carcassonne. Famous for its medieval fortifications, this UNESCO World Heritage site has roots that predate the Roman Empire.

History runs deep in the often overlooked town of Narbonne, an ancient port city founded in 118 BCE, and the first Roman colony established in Gaul.

Gallo-Roman artifacts from the town’s original city walls and buildings, many of which had been stored away for years, are now on display at the new Narbo Via Museum, which opened its doors in May 2021.

The stunning Narbo Via Museum, designed by renowned architects Foster+Partners, features an industrial-style crane that uses robotic technology to constantly rearrange over 700 ancient carved stone blocks in its central ‘Lapidary Wall’ display.

The Canal du Midi, a 17th-century waterway connecting the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, winds through the center of Narbonne, ferrying thousands of barge passengers each year on scenic routes between Sète and Toulouse.

Yet, few visitors venture beyond the canal or head further to explore the treasures of Narbonne and Carcassonne. They’re missing out.

Nestled along the canal in Narbonne lies the city’s iconic covered market, Les Halles, where the morning rush gives way to a quieter lunchtime. As local vendors pack up their seafood, fresh produce, and Languedoc’s renowned goat cheeses, nearby restaurants begin to fill with diners enjoying wine alongside their midday meals.

‘The market is where the people of Narbonne gather to socialize over a glass of wine,’ says winemaker Gerard Bertrand, whose biodynamic and organic wines have become a benchmark for sustainable winemaking in Languedoc, speaking to Dinogo Travel.

A legacy of winemaking that continues to evolve

Though vines have thrived in the Languedoc region for millennia, Narbonne was the first port through which wine flowed across the Roman Empire. According to Bertrand, the region eventually ‘lost its nobility,’ prioritizing quantity over quality.

Regions like Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux rose to prominence, leaving Languedoc in the shadows.

However, since the 1970s, Bordeaux-based oenologist Sera Goto explains, meticulous efforts have been made to replant varietals suited to Languedoc-Roussillon’s unique microclimates and soils, always with a deep respect for the land and environment.

The region is described as ‘a vibrant mosaic, full of textures, with a stunning variety of soils, varietals, and wine styles,’ making it one of France’s key organic wine-producing regions, she says.

‘Once merely a supplier of mass-produced wines for the ancient Greeks, Romans, and later the Gauls, the Languedoc-Roussillon of today is a leader in organic, artisanal winemaking,’ says Goto.

A large part of the region's success is due to pioneering winemakers like Bertrand, a former professional rugby player who took over his father’s vineyard in 1987 and has since embraced fully biodynamic farming practices across his 16 vineyards in the area.

His Château l’Hospitalet Grand Vin Rouge 2017 was awarded the title of best red wine in the world after a blind tasting of 6,000 wines at the International Wine Challenge in 2019.

‘The future of our region looks promising,’ says Bertrand. ‘A new generation of winemakers is taking over, fully committed to honoring and preserving the incredible natural heritage we have here.’

For those looking to socialize while savoring local wines, you can enjoy lunch at Les Halles in Narbonne at Chez Bebelle, where tables are set up right within the bustling market.

It’s often standing room only as locals, with shopping bags full of fresh produce, clink glasses and order classic dishes like steak tartare and duck breast, all while discussing the latest rugby match and local events.

Vineyards and lagoons where you can stay, sip, and indulge

For a peaceful getaway among biodynamic vineyards near Narbonne, Bertrand’s Château l’Hospitalet offers a serene retreat within the La Clape appellation.

Housed in a historic 11th-century hospital, the coastal winery and boutique hotel features a new gastronomic restaurant, L’Art de Vivre, which showcases seasonal organic ingredients, Aubrac beef, and eel sourced from the nearby Étang de l’Ayrolle in Gruissan.

Along with rooms in the château, Villa Soleilla offers 11 suites and a newly added spa in its collection of modern buildings, renovated from the original stone walls of an ancient winery. The rooms, featuring private patios and terraces, offer stunning views of the surrounding vineyards and the sparkling Mediterranean Sea.

In the warmer months, the hotel’s seasonal beach club and seaside restaurant, just a short drive away in nearby Gruissan, evoke the relaxed, sun-soaked vibe of the Côte d’Azur – but without the flashy excess.

Throughout the year, you can wander the quiet sands of Gruissan, trek through vineyards to views of a coastline dotted with more sails than super yachts, and hike to the Gouffre de l’Oeil Doux, an emerald pool nestled in the karst mountains, reminiscent of a Mexican cenote.

At Salin de Gruissan, near the charming fishing village of Gruissan, lagoons where sea salt is harvested take on a pink hue, thanks to algae that reacts with the sunlight. Flamingos wade through the shallow waters closest to the sea, while fleur de sel is hand-harvested and sold at a small boutique on-site.

At the edge of the lagoon, guests can enjoy massages and salt soak treatments inside a modest roulotte – a small, wooden cart resembling a portable sauna, with a view of the salt pans. The setup offers a simple, no-frills wellness experience.

Right by the lagoon, at La Cambuse du Saunier, platters of oysters, whelks, shrimp, and couteaux – razor clams served with a rich garlic and parsley sauce – are served at rustic driftwood tables at a no-nonsense restaurant offering some of the freshest seafood in France.

In the nearby medieval village of Bages, located on the Étang de Bages, kitesurfers glide across the turbulent waters of a lagoon known for its silver eel harvest. These eels can be tasted in a variety of dishes at Le Portanel, a former fisherman’s home now turned into a restaurant.

Oyster lovers make their way northeast of Narbonne to the coastal village of Marseillan, in the neighboring Hérault department.

In Marseillan, special Tarbouriech oysters, also known as ‘pink oysters,’ are cultivated on ropes that are raised and lowered in the waters of France’s largest lagoon, the Étang de Thau. This unique method allows the growers to control the salinity in the nearly tideless, saline waters.

A platter of these oysters, served outdoors with a crisp glass of rosé, while overlooking the lagoon at Tarbouriech Le St. Barth, perfectly captures the essence of the region.

And the best part? The complete lack of pretension.

You can visit any of these spots exactly as you are, wearing whatever you threw on that morning for a day of exploring.

A region of discovery – one that’s still being uncovered.

‘All you need to do is open one door in this region, and soon enough, you’ll find another,’ says Gilles Sansa, who operates the private chauffeur service Quadriges, taking tourists, Hollywood crews (including the team behind “The Last Duel,” which filmed scenes at the 11th-century Abbaye de Fontfroid), and anyone else eager to explore the area’s hidden corners and back roads.

‘When Americans visit, they come with a clear purpose,’ says Sansa. ‘They know the wine and food are excellent, but what really draws them in is the true spirit of the place, something they didn’t expect to find.’

For many Europeans, the region’s charm is no secret – and both foreign and French demand for real estate has surged during the pandemic, says Nathalie Van Veenendaal, regional manager for French real estate agency, Selection Habitat-Hamilton.

She describes the local housing market as having a ‘return-to-the-countryside’ vibe, attracting growing interest from both French nationals and Europeans, while the area has traditionally been a hotspot for Brits.

‘It’s the combination of the sea, mountains, and countryside, paired with an exceptional quality of life, that really draws people in,’ says Van Veenendaal.

‘It’s less about flaunting a grand property here, like in the Côte d’Azur, and more about enjoying everything else this region has to offer,’ she adds.