This Rhine River Cruise Left Me Awestruck, But Not as I Anticipated.

I find myself breathless and panting near Heidelberg, a historic German city at the foot of the Odenwald mountains. My cycling group and I are heading towards Schwetzingen Palace, famous for its gardens reminiscent of Versailles, located about six miles from our ship moored on the Rhine. As I pause in a cornfield, my fellow cyclists appear as mere flecks of silver hair in the distance.

“No need to worry,” the wellness instructor reassures me kindly. He stayed back to ensure I wouldn't get lost. “Many of these older cyclists are quite experienced.”

“They’re in such better shape than I am!” I exclaim. He gives me a knowing look. “Well, that’s true.”

It’s the fifth day of AmaWaterways’ seven-night “Enchanting Rhine” cruise. I’m journeying from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland, aboard the 156-passenger AmaLucia, launched in 2022. This ship is one of the newest in the fleet, featuring two dining options (a main restaurant and the exclusive Chef’s Table, seating 32), a spa, a walking track, and complimentary beer and wine.

What sets AmaWaterways apart from the vast selection of Rhine River cruises is its commitment to wellness and active excursions. While it’s widely known that river-cruise passengers are often older, this company appeals to those who enjoy starting their mornings with energetic bike rides and finishing with a vineyard-side wine tasting. Each ship is equipped with an onboard wellness instructor who organizes daily activities like yoga, cardio workouts, and dance classes. Guests can borrow bikes at no cost for exploring on land, and AmaWaterways also offers shore excursions, ranging from scenic cable car rides over vineyards to hikes in the Black Forest.

As my trip neared its end, I found myself perched on a stoop, relishing a mango gelato after an extensive walking tour of Riquewihr, a storybook medieval town in France. I had exerted myself along the Rhine for the past week, but it was precisely the type of vacation I craved. For someone like me, whose thoughts often race with worries, staying active helped me feel more present and engaged—even while being outpaced by travelers twice my age. Those moments in unfamiliar places, when responsibilities fade away, make travel—and the effort—truly rewarding.