This Scenic Wine Region Is Europe’s Most Overlooked River Cruise Gem

As our river cruise vessel glided through Portugal’s picture-perfect Douro Valley, a vibrant train journeyed through the hills nearby, with passengers waving and shouting cheerful greetings.

Our captain responded with a sharp blast of the S.S. São Gabriel’s horn, eliciting cheers from both the ship's passengers and those on the train.

It was a delightful interruption on a calm, sunny morning, serving as one of many reminders throughout our weeklong voyage with Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection of the distinct beauty of one of Europe’s most scenic and untouched rivers.

While the Rhine boasts its castles and the Danube showcases the Wachau Valley along with Budapest’s iconic Parliament building, the Douro Valley enchants with its endless vistas of vineyard-clad, terraced hills adorned with charming villages, wine estates, and the occasional pousada or campground, providing a surprisingly peaceful escape from the summer tourist crowds flooding Europe’s more famous destinations.

Indeed, similar to other European rivers, the Douro has experienced a rise in river cruise ships in recent years, including the São Gabriel, one of several new vessels that launched after the pandemic, bringing the total on the Douro to approximately twenty. However, unlike the more popular Rhine and Danube cruises, the entire journey navigates through the UNESCO-protected Douro Valley, which remains refreshingly free from commercial and industrial development, as well as the chain hotels and resorts that draw mass tourism.

Since no roads run directly alongside the river, the only traffic along the banks consists of the occasional passenger train.

Experiencing the Douro River Cruise

Douro River cruises begin and conclude in the beautiful city of Porto, usually featuring an overnight stay at each end to explore Portugal’s second-largest city.

During a cruise in early June, our vessel was moored on the Gaia side of the river, famous for its numerous port wine houses, directly facing the historic city center with its colorful, terracotta-roofed multi-story buildings, remnants of 14th-century fortification walls, and baroque church towers.

Exhausted from the three-flight overnight journey from Albuquerque, I spent my first afternoon fighting jet lag by wandering the hilly, cobblestone streets and alleys along the river near the ship, then unwinding on the sundeck while watching traditional flat-bottomed wooden boats, or rabelos, ferry visitors to the Atlantic's mouth.

The next morning, I participated in a walking tour that led us across the renowned Ponte Dom Luis bridges, through medieval streets and alleys to the Cathedral Sé, an essential stop for pilgrims on the famous Camino de Santiago. We also explored the San Bento train station, celebrated for its blue and white-tiled azulejos that narrate the city’s history, before heading to Bolhão Market, an open-air farmers’ market, to sample canned sardines and bacalao (salted cod). We then strolled down Santa Catarina Street, a lively shopping area filled with delightful cafés, shops, and historic landmarks, before returning to the boat to set sail.

For the next five days, we meandered slowly east along the Douro River to the Spanish border and back, with an itinerary that showcased the region’s wine and culinary delights. In Peso da Régua, about 70 miles from Porto, we visited the Douro Museum for a port tasting and a brief lecture on the area’s wine-making history. We then proceeded to Lamego, home to one of northern Portugal’s most iconic religious sites, the hilltop Our Lady of Remedios Sanctuary, which overlooks the town with its 686-step, garden-lined, tiered staircase adorned with large blue-and-white-tiled murals of angels. After descending the staircase, we enjoyed a tasting of port wine alongside local meats and cheeses before exploring the town and returning to the boat.

That evening, we took a short five-minute drive to dine in the expansive wine cellar at the Quinta da Pacheca estate, famous for its Old Tawny Port and home to the Wine House Hotel, featuring opulent rooms shaped like wine barrels. (There’s even a wine barrel doghouse at the entrance for the resident rescue dog, Pacheco, who popped in for a few pets during dinner.) The menu was straightforward yet delicious, highlighting a steak filet with a delicate sauce and some of the most delectable green beans and scalloped potatoes I've ever tasted.

The following day, we enjoyed a leisurely morning cruise to the town of Régua, where we had the option of an afternoon excursion to the medieval village of Castelo Rodrigo or the archaeological site of Foz Coa, a UNESCO World Heritage site. I chose the park, where we ventured into the valley to see ancient rock carvings from the Stone Age.

On the fifth day, we boarded coaches to cross into Spain and explore Salamanca, dubbed the “Golden City” for its tawny sandstone architecture. Salamanca is home to Spain’s oldest university, featuring two cathedrals: a newer one from the early 16th century and the Old Cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century. The beauty of river cruising is the flexibility to skip guided tours and explore on your own whenever you wish. My traveling companion and I decided to forgo the walking tour, instead opting to browse the shops along Rua Mayor, visit the city’s Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum, and enjoy an outdoor lunch in the baroque Plaza Mayor before regrouping with our party for the bus ride back to the boat.

After that, it was time to head back to Porto. On our return journey, we enjoyed more sailing and made an additional stop in Régua, this time with tours and wine tastings at nearby vineyards.

Journeying on Uniworld’s S.S. “São Gabriel”

A key part of any river cruise is the ship itself—your floating hotel for the entire trip. Uniworld truly shines in the realm of luxury river cruising.

The latest addition to Uniworld’s fleet, the S.S. São Gabriel, is one of its smaller vessels, featuring just 50 cabins. Due to Portuguese regulations concerning local ownership and staffing, it is the only ship in their European fleet not fully owned or staffed by Uniworld. It is instead owned by a Portuguese company and leased to Uniworld. Nonetheless, the service and locally sourced food and wine on board certainly meet the five-star expectations of this luxury line.

The breakfast and lunch buffets presented a delightful variety of local and international dishes. Dinners were exquisite, fine dining experiences featuring traditional Portuguese meals like octopus, pork cheek, and caldo verde, a delicious green cabbage and chorizo soup. And let’s not forget the wine! Each night, different selections were presented at the table to complement the evening’s entrees.

Accommodation options range from luxurious grand suites with sitting areas and spacious bathrooms equipped with double vanities, soaking tubs, and separate showers, to more budget-friendly lower deck cabins that feature windows but lack balconies. All suites, including 4 grand and 12 standard suites, offer 24-hour butler service. Every type of accommodation provides unlimited food and drinks, including signature cocktails and an impressive selection of Portuguese wines, with my personal favorite being Montanha Reserva, a crisp and dry sparkling wine that competes with the finest champagnes.

I stayed in a mid-deck French balcony cabin, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows that open halfway down at the touch of a button. Although cozy at 150 square feet, the space is perfectly sufficient for a trip where the cabin is primarily used for sleeping.

Whenever the weather permitted, I spent most of my sailing hours on the expansive sun deck, which, in addition to a swimming pool, provides a mix of uncovered and shaded lounge chairs, sofas, and tables.

On cooler, rainy days, guests can unwind in the third-deck lounge, which features glass walls and offers breathtaking 180-degree views of the Douro River Valley and the various locks the ship navigates.

For those focused on fitness and wellness, there’s a cozy spa and a surprisingly well-equipped gym. Each morning, the spa director conducted stretching sessions on the sun deck or in the lounge, depending on the weather conditions.

During daytime sailings (as Douro ships cannot cruise at night), the crew engaged guests with activities such as Portuguese language lessons and a demonstration on how to make the country’s famous pasteis de nata, or custard tarts.

Given that we spent the nights in smaller towns and villages, there wasn’t much nightlife to explore off the ship. However, the onboard DJ ensured a lively atmosphere, spinning a fantastic selection of Motown hits that resonated with the predominantly 50s and 60s crowd. Almost everyone filled the dance floor during the spirited 1970s-themed party, dancing late into the night.

Each day typically featured two excursion options: one being a coach tour and the other a walking tour that showcased local sites and vineyards.

Since there aren’t easily accessible roads or bike paths along the Douro, this ship—unlike most in Uniworld’s European fleet—does not provide bicycles for guests. Nevertheless, on our final day in Porto, we opted for a three-hour “Port to the Sea” excursion on electric bikes, available for an additional fee of €49 (around US$53). This journey took us from the ship through a fishing village to a port-side area where locals do their laundry and hang it out to dry. We then followed a 20-kilometer bike path along the coast, encountering windsurfers, dogs, and families enjoying the beach, along with its charming cafés, ice cream shops, and street markets. Our last stop was Praia do Senhor da Pedra, a beach featuring a stunning 17th-century chapel perched on massive boulders that extend into the sea.

It was the perfect conclusion to a wonderful trip that harmoniously blended the vibrancy of urban life with the tranquility of the countryside and seaside.

Sustainability onboard the S.S. “São Gabriel”

In line with many cruise lines, Uniworld has removed single-use plastics from its operations, providing staterooms with glass bottles for water that cabin attendants refill diligently. Guests receive aluminum water bottles for refilling throughout the journey, and personal care items such as soaps, shampoos, and lotions are offered in fixed, refillable dispensers. The daily menus feature meatless options, including vegan and vegetarian selections. Furthermore, Uniworld, along with its parent company the Travel Corporation, has implemented an automated system for tracking food waste reduction. The Travel Corporation aims to achieve carbon neutrality by 2030 and plans to obtain half of its electricity from renewable sources by 2025.