This survivor-led tour of Sarajevo offers the most profound insight into Bosnia’s history.

Dinogo Planet’s People You Meet series highlights individuals who leave a lasting impact and enhance your connection with the destination.

“What do you think of my art?” Almir Ahmetagic asks, a playful grin spreading across his face as he gestures toward a sizable dent in the minivan we just exited. He gives a slight shrug and chuckles, his car keys jingling in his hand.

This immediately eases the tension within our small three-person group. Thirty years after the Bosnian War, we’ve just visited one of the numerous locations where bullet holes still scar Sarajevo’s residential buildings.

While we delve into one of the most brutal and prolonged sieges in recent history, Almir lightens the mood with a few darkly humorous quips along the way.

His harrowing experience of surviving the war is marked by being shot twice and witnessing enemy forces set fire to his home, just before losing his brother to sniper fire.

Yet, despite these tragedies, his narrative – much like that of the city – is infused with hope.

Almir’s uplifting tour of Bosnia’s challenging history

At around 15 years old, he enlisted in the army in 1992 when the siege of Sarajevo commenced, joining forces with his brother to combat the Serbian troops besieging the capital.

Having witnessed many of the critical events during the nearly four-year siege, Almir now offers guided tours of his hometown for those seeking to understand Bosnia and Hercegovina’s challenging yet intriguing history.

“I thought, ‘This will impress the girls,’” he laughs, recalling his reason for joining the army. “But honestly, the Serb army left us no choice: we had to fight. Civilians were killed in every town that fell.” Approximately 100,000 people died in the conflict, with over two million displaced.

He guides us on foot to the first key stop of the tour, Sarajevo’s Tunnel Museum. This small, crumbling structure, pockmarked with bullet holes, resembles many of the neighboring houses.

Near the entrance, we notice faded red stains on the floor. We soon discover their importance: this is a Sarajevo Rose, one of approximately 200 memorials scattered throughout the city, formed from concrete scars left by mortar explosions and filled with red resin.

Though it's referred to as a rose, its appearance is more reminiscent of blood – a stark and chilling reminder of the war's brutality. These markings represent places where many lost their lives.

Almir describes how Serb forces, aiming to establish a new Bosnian Serb state after Bosnia and Hercegovina's independence during the Yugoslav breakup, encircled Sarajevo, depriving residents of electricity, water, and food.

Multiethnic Bosnia consists primarily of Muslim Bosniaks, Orthodox Serbs, and Catholic Croats; during the war, the Bosniak community was predominantly targeted in what is now widely recognized as ethnic cleansing by the Serb forces. Today, Sarajevo has a majority Bosnian Muslim population, with residents like Almir identifying as Bosniak.

Situated in a valley, Sarajevo saw snipers strategically positioned in the surrounding mountains, frequently firing upon soldiers and civilians. Almir recounts, “The first time I was hit, it was by a small piece of shrapnel. That piece is still in my head,” he says, tapping his skull.

The second time, luck was not on his side as shrapnel struck his spine. “Doctors told me I’d never walk again,” Almir recalls, having spent an astonishing three years in the hospital recuperating from the injury. Fortunately, he defied the odds and is able to walk today.

To endure and connect with the outside world, the Bosnian army and volunteers excavated a tunnel to an area beyond Sarajevo that was safe for Bosnians. This allowed food, war supplies, and humanitarian aid to flow into the city, giving rise to the name “Tunnel of Hope.”

Equipped with this insight, we descend 16 feet (5 meters) underground to experience a portion of the tunnel firsthand. The space narrows, and the temperature drops. It’s remarkable to realize that the 2,625-foot (800-meter) tunnel was constructed in just over four months amid relentless bombing and artillery strikes. “Watch your head,” Almir cautions, recalling his own close calls. “I needed stitches once!” We navigate through, bent low, with lamps illuminating our path.

View from Trebević Mountain

After resurfacing, we climb back into the minivan for a scenic drive up Trebević Mountain, which overlooks Sarajevo. Along the way, Almir highlights popular restaurants, cafes, and social spots as we pass through what is now a vibrant and lively city.

At the summit, Almir points out where snipers once positioned themselves. With no one else around, we stand on the mountain ridge, quietly taking in the city below. During our visit, a thick layer of snow blankets the ground, and I picture how ideal this spot would be to escape the summer heat.

Before we descend back to the city, we explore the abandoned Olympic bobsled track from the 1984 Winter Games. Nestled within a protected forest that boasts numerous hiking trails, we stroll along the graffiti-covered bobsled course, which bears scars from mortar shells and artillery damage.

Our last stop takes us to one of Europe’s largest and oldest Jewish cemeteries, which was situated on the frontline during the war and is tragically marked by shelling. We learn how Serb forces utilized it as an artillery position, with many graves still flattened under the weight of heavy weaponry.

Yet, like many of the other sites on the tour, there is a serene peace enveloping the grounds now, despite their tumultuous history. This same sense of tranquility is reflected in the capital’s residents, including Almir, who is, above all, a true advocate for his hometown and a symbol of hope.

Booking Information

You can reserve Almir’s half-day Sarajevo siege tour online through Funky Tours. Tickets are priced at approximately €30 per person and include admission to the Tunnel Museum.