This Swiss Destination: A Skier’s Dream

The Swiss Alps boast exceptional skiing, but as an adventurous skier, the backcountry and off-piste terrain I explored in Engelberg was truly unparalleled. While most of the Alps feature groomed, well-maintained runs that reflect Swiss precision, Engelberg enticed me with its promise of incredible off-piste opportunities, fresh powder, and guided backcountry adventures.

I arrived in Switzerland via a nonstop flight on Swiss International Air Lines, feeling refreshed and eager to discover this stunning country. Reaching Engelberg is a straightforward train journey from Lucerne, a picturesque city worth exploring. As you travel, you ascend through charming pastoral landscapes until you reach Engelberg, a mountain haven at the end of the road, surrounded by majestic peaks in every direction.

It’s no surprise this town is a magnet for travelers and boasts many local residents who are passionate skiers. I even met the abbot at the Benedictine Monastery Engelberg, along with monks in their 80s, all lifelong skiing and mountain enthusiasts. This local monastery, over 900 years old, is a captivating site, rich in cultural artifacts that have influenced Engelberg's history through the ages.

A chic retreat and the allure of fresh powder

On the afternoon of my arrival, clouds gathered and a vibrant energy filled the air as everyone hoped for snow, including those at my hotel. I stayed at the Kempinski Palace Engelberg, located at the base of Titlis mountain, with views of the Gross-Titlis-Schanze ski jump. This remarkable hotel, housed in a stunning building from 1904 that reopened in 2021 after renovation, served as the perfect base for my Engelberg adventure.

While the structure exudes Belle Époque charm, the rooms are impeccably modern, equipped with amenities to satisfy even the most discerning travelers, including updated charging docks. I was picked up in a stylish new Mercedes van, enjoyed the luxurious spa featuring a long pool ideal for laps, and relished a sophisticated meal made with locally sourced cheeses and meats.

Chef de Cuisine Joshua Lüscher crafted an exquisite six-course dinner showcasing beautiful Swiss cuisine, with each course paired with a delightful local Swiss wine. Goat featured prominently in nearly every dish: goat cheese, goat meat, goat milk ricotta, goat milk and curd, and goat cheese camembert. Even the Swiss white wine, Gissaheinet, sported a goat on its label. Lüscher’s grandmother, Frieda Dänzer, was a former Swiss Olympic skier, and like most residents of Engelberg, he’s a passionate skier eagerly anticipating the snowfall.

The hotel frequently collaborates with local farmers and Swiss winemakers, making it a popular spot for après-ski cocktails. There’s even a pop-up fondue restaurant next to the Kurpark, a large park that was filled with freshly made snowmen by the time we departed.

Majestic, guided off-piste adventures

After a day filled with anticipation for thrilling skiing, snow began to gently fall as I settled in for the night. The next morning, the town revealed a stunning new landscape blanketed in snow. By 7 a.m., Engelberg was alive with energy, as skiers strolled about with their gear. I was eager to hit the slopes, but first, I needed to meet my guide.

While off-piste skiing in the U.S. is generally a controlled experience within designated areas, in Switzerland, anything off the marked trails is fair game—provided you know what you're doing. Since you’ll often be on your own in unfamiliar terrain, having a guide is essential for a responsible and enriching experience. Guiding in the Alps is a serious profession, requiring years of training and expertise. With a knowledgeable guide, you can navigate the mountain fully, accessing the best snow conditions based on timing and weather, allowing you to glide over pristine powder before the crowds arrive.

My guide for the adventure was Daniel Perret, a UIAGM mountain guide from Engelberg Mountain Guide, who was one of the best skiers I’ve ever had the pleasure to ski with. He grew up in the area, pioneered much of the local backcountry, created a free ride map for Engelberg, and possessed a wealth of knowledge about the region. This expertise was invaluable, especially given the intensity of the skiing. Picture waist-deep powder, with fresh, cold snow hitting your face with every turn. One unforgettable descent led us to a farm, necessitating a refreshing 10-minute walk back to the gondola—every step was worth it. These experiences elevate a trip to new heights.

For the longest runs and the finest powder, the extra effort is well worth it—but often, that’s unnecessary, another perk of having a guide. Many local farmers operate private cable cars to transport their cheese to market or wood up the mountain during winter. My guide Daniel and his friends have charted the locations of these private cable cars, allowing you to ascend to the summit of Engelberg using them. If you do find yourself at a farm—chasing those hidden powder stashes—farmers will come out to fire up the generators to get the cable cars operational.

Take me to the summit

At the mountain's base, you'll discover the Stöckli Outdoor Sports ski center alongside a fantastic curry restaurant. (Stöckli, known for its Swiss ski equipment and apparel, sponsors numerous Swiss World Cup skiers.) The state-of-the-art cable cars promise a smooth ride with breathtaking views. Engelberg Titlis boasts the world's first revolving cable car, which takes you from the mid-station at Stand to the summit at 3,020 meters above sea level. Once at the top, you can enjoy a delicious meal at an excellent Italian restaurant.

After an exhilarating day on the slopes, swing by the Chalet Après-Ski Bar at the base of the main lift. This casual and locally cherished spot is essential after a long day on the mountain—don't miss the chance to hear stories from top skiers about their epic runs that day. We raised a glass to the stunning peaks of Engelberg. I can't think of a more beautiful place in the world to ski.