This Uruguayan coastline features the 'Hamptons of South America,' along with vibrant art galleries and dining experiences from celebrity chefs.

As I settled on a granite bench inside a small dome-roofed structure in José Ignacio, the sounds of insects and frogs filled the air. It was a humid late January day, and my partner Felipe and I were captivated by the tangerine sunset visible through a circular opening in the pristine white marble ceiling of "Ta Khut," the first freestanding Skyspace installation in South America by American artist James Turrell. The artificial light within the structure seamlessly shifted with the natural twilight, inducing a calming, meditative atmosphere for visitors.

That evening, around thirty of us gathered, completely mesmerized by the ever-changing hues—dandelion yellow and violet one moment, then transitioning to black and lavender. Soft bursts of heat lightning illuminated the open roof as darkness enveloped the outside world, making the Skyspace's glow even more intense. After 40 minutes, we stepped out from our vibrant sanctuary into the pitch-black night, feeling blissfully dazed. The other numerous artworks scattered around our 17-room hotel, Posada Ayana, would have to be explored another day.

Convincing Felipe to join me for a culture-packed long weekend on Uruguay's Atlantic coast wasn't a straightforward task. As the deputy director of an art museum in Santiago, Chile, he viewed the area through the lens of Punta del Este—often seen as a flashy imitation of Miami, frequented by Brazilian models, Argentine soccer players, and Chilean reality stars eager to attract paparazzi. To him, it didn't seem like a fitting destination for someone with refined tastes.

The diverse crowd on the flight to Punta kept him skeptical, but as the day unfolded, Felipe's attitude began to shift. We took a break for lunch in the laid-back resort town of La Barra, just six miles east of Punta, at Café El Tesoro, a spot that shares its space with the concept store 3 Mundos. Our meal featured globally inspired dishes—tuna tartare served with turmeric tostadas and a rich burrata salad topped with pistachio pesto—set against an eclectic backdrop of art books, blown glass, and ceramics. Later that evening, after experiencing the Skyspace, we both acknowledged one truth: despite Punta's reputation, the neighboring towns to the east are forging a vibrant international creative scene with immense potential.

Once a humble fishing village, José Ignacio—about 40 minutes east of Punta—stands at the heart of this transformation. Over the past few decades, it has evolved into an upscale beachfront haven, brimming with galleries, including the newly established ceramics studio of Argentine sculptor Marcela Jacob; boutiques like the unique octagonal bookstore Rizoma; and eye-catching architecture, such as Edgardo Giménez’s whimsical Casa Neptuna, which now hosts the art residency of Fundación Ama Amoedo, where creatives from Latin American backgrounds converge for research and experimentation.

José Ignacio may be known as the Hamptons of South America, but that reputation oversimplifies its vibrant character. While the properties here are indeed priced in the millions, most are set along dirt roads. Unlike the meticulously groomed landscapes of the Hamptons, the natural surroundings remain untamed and lively—much like the destination itself.

Many locals attribute the area’s charm to Francis Mallmann. This flamboyant, fire-enthusiast chef first put José Ignacio on the culinary map in 1978 with his restaurant, Posada del Mar, located at the edge of the José Ignacio lagoon. In late 2020, he made his return to an evolved José Ignacio, launching Chiringuito Francis Mallmann, a beachfront venue that Felipe and I explored on our second day.

Situated within the Costa Garzón development, which plans to introduce a boutique hotel in 2024, this restaurant offers a sophisticated take on South America’s casual beach stalls. "It’s a spot where you can dine barefoot on the beach, unwind, and take a swim," shared Mallmann, who was present during our visit.

Felipe and I indulged in a delicious ribeye topped with chimichurri, grilled a la plancha. The following day, we left José Ignacio and headed to Luz Culinary Wine Lodge. This sleek six-suite hotel, which opened last November, is nestled on a 35-acre estate brimming with vineyards and olive trees, perfectly situated on our route to Pueblo Garzón, our next destination.

If José Ignacio embodies the Hamptons of the Southern Hemisphere, then Pueblo Garzón, just a half-hour inland amidst rolling pastures, could be likened to Marfa. Once vibrant due to a railway that ceased operations in the 1960s, the town’s population dwindled from about 2,000 to just 200 today. Nevertheless, it retains its fairy-tale allure. In recent years, many derelict houses have been acquired by artists, transforming them into galleries.

American photographer Heidi Lender, who established the creative institute Campo in 2017, reminisced, “When I first came here in 2009, it felt like I had stumbled upon a hidden gem. The landscape was so quirky and off the beaten path—ideal for artists.”

At Campo’s Canteen, a gathering spot to connect with resident artists, we discovered the annual Campo Artfest, which has significantly raised Pueblo Garzón’s profile. Each December, over thirty artists descend upon the town, reimagining spaces like the old train station and palm-fringed plaza into a vibrant canvas of creativity. We also noticed an increase in permanent galleries; on our stroll, we counted a dozen, with two having just opened last month.

The first, Walden Naturae, is an ambitious branch of Buenos Aires' Waldengallery, hidden behind a striking brick-red wall. It features works by prominent regional artists, including the surreal erotic photography of the late Argentine conceptual artist Oscar Bony. The second, La Galerilla, celebrates the town’s historical significance, providing emerging artists with repurposed freight train cars to create site-specific installations, such as the whimsical collage art inspired by bestiaries from Brazil's Loló Bonfanti.

On our last day, we headed back toward Punta del Este to explore the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Atchugarry, Uruguay’s first significant contemporary art museum. Nestled within a 99-acre sculpture park, it opened in January showcasing 27 mesmerizing heliographic prints by León Ferrari, along with a major retrospective of environmental installation artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude — a scale that truly captivated Felipe.

The permanent collection combines works by Uruguayan masters like María Freire, a key figure in the Concrete Art movement, and Joaquín Torres-García, the father of Latin American Constructivism, with international legends such as Frank Stella and Peter Halley. This collection resides in a windowless, black-walled gallery on the lower level, which Uruguayan sculptor Pablo Atchugarry, the museum's founder, refers to as ‘the catacomb’ due to its dark ambiance. “The artworks come alive like actors emerging onto a stage,” he explained.

MACA has been instrumental in establishing the area just east of Punta del Este as a genuine art hub. Visitors will undoubtedly continue to flock to this beautiful stretch of the Uruguayan coastline for its pristine beaches, delectable seaside dining, and, of course, opportunities for celebrity sightings. “Our hope,” Atchugarry remarked, “is that now they’ll recognize the vibrant cultural life here as well.”

This story was originally published in the October 2022 edition of Dinogo with the title "The Art of Transportation."