Top Chefs Compete as Racing Raises the Bar on Fine Dining
It's no longer just the horses that are top-class at major racing events; the chefs now come with prestigious pedigrees as the culinary competition heats up in the world of racing.
From Royal Ascot to ParisLongchamp, and from the Melbourne Cup to the Pegasus World Cup, racecourses are embracing a fine-dining revolution, aiming to attract those willing to indulge in the ultimate racing experience.
Legendary French chef Albert Roux was a pioneer of this culinary trend, though his passion for racing likely drove him to the track as much as his culinary talents did.
In his early career, Roux worked as a private chef for Major Peter Cazalet, who trained racehorses for Queen Elizabeth II, and often took the opportunity to ride out with the horses in the mornings.
Cazalet was the one who encouraged Roux and his brother Michel to open a restaurant, Le Gavroche, which launched in Mayfair, London in 1967 and became the first British restaurant to earn three Michelin stars.
Roux’s signature Chez Roux dining experience has become a staple at the UK’s top racing events, with three generations of the family set to display their culinary mastery at the Cheltenham Festival, Newmarket’s Guineas meetings, and the iconic Epsom Derby in 2020.
Albert Roux, his son Michel Roux Jr. (owner of Le Gavroche), and Michel’s daughter Emily will present menus showcasing the seasonal produce and local flavors unique to each region.
Menu options include dishes such as duck tourte with roasted parsnips, cranberry and orange compote, red wine and port jus, or maple-cured Highland venison with ragout, pecan-crusted butternut squash, pommes dauphine, and sage.
“Chez Roux delivers exceptional cuisine with stunning dishes to enjoy while watching world-class horse racing,” stated a spokesperson from the Jockey Club, which owns the racecourses.
Cheltenham Racecourse, Evesham Road, Cheltenham, England, GL50 4SH: +44 1242513014
Newmarket Racecourses, Foremans Office Rowley Mile Racecourse, Newmarket, England, CB8 0TG; +44 1638675500
Epsom Racecourse, Epsom Downs, Epsom, England, KT18 5LQ: +44 1372 726311
Royal Ascot as the industry benchmark
‘Impressive lineup’
While Roux set the standard for world-class chefs at race meetings, Royal Ascot has raised the bar and disproves the saying that too many cooks spoil the broth.
For 2020, a selection of top chefs with a combined total of nine Michelin stars will offer a luxurious array of fine-dining options at the event, which is a key highlight of Britain’s sporting and social calendar.
Headlining once again is Raymond Blanc, whose Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire holds two Michelin stars. The French chef will return for a fifth year to the sixth-floor Panoramic Restaurant in the Royal Enclosure. A sample menu includes native Cornish lobster with Jersey royal potato salad to start, followed by Royal Estate lamb rump with braised shoulder navarin, spring vegetables, and potato purée.
Rising star Ollie Dabbous, a former protégé of Blanc and founder of the Michelin-starred HIDE in Mayfair, London, made his Royal Ascot debut at The Balmoral restaurant in 2019 and will return to launch Holyroodhouse in the Royal Enclosure.
Simon Rogan, with four Michelin stars across his dining establishments, returns for a third year with a pop-up restaurant in the Royal Enclosure Gardens. He will also curate the menu for the Green Yard restaurant, also in the Royal Enclosure.
“Royal Ascot is a highlight of the British summer. Beyond the races, the food scene there is gaining an incredible reputation. This year’s lineup is exceptional, and I’m truly honored to be part of it,” said Dabbous ahead of this year’s event.
A fresh addition to Royal Ascot’s culinary offerings is Monica Galetti, a Samoan-born, New Zealand-raised chef and proprietor of Mere in London. She will be taking over The Balmoral in the Royal Enclosure.
Brett Graham, who holds two Michelin stars as head chef at The Ledbury in London, will make his Royal Ascot debut at the light-filled ON 5 restaurant located on the fifth floor of the grandstand in the Queen Anne Enclosure.
“Ascot stands at the forefront of sporting venue dining, offering an exceptional platform to present some of the world’s finest chefs,” said Jonathan Parker, Ascot’s director of food and beverage.
“I consider Royal Ascot to be the most impressive gathering of stars – both on and off the racetrack – of any sporting event in the UK,”
Ascot Racecourse, High St, Ascot, England, SL5 7JX; +44 03443463000
‘A truly special experience’
For this year’s iconic race weekend in early October, renowned chef Thierry Marx curated the menu for the top-floor restaurant Le Panorama, offering stunning views of the historic racetrack, the lush Bois de Boulogne, the Eiffel Tower, and the business district towers of La Defense.
“For me, the Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe at Longchamp is one of the most iconic races in the equestrian world,” said the French chef to Aly Vance for Dinogo’s Winning Post TV Show.
“As a child from Paris, you grow up hearing about this prestigious grand prix. Now, being able to finalize the race day menu fills me with great pride. In both the world of horses and gastronomy, success comes through hard work and teamwork,” he shared.
ParisLongchamp, 2 Routes des Tribunes, Paris, 75016, France; + 33 1 49 10 20 65
Marx, the mastermind behind Sur Mesure at the Mandarin Oriental in Paris, remarked, “The Panorama offers a truly unique experience, where you're above time, witnessing the races and crowds, feeling as though you're floating above Longchamp and Paris.”
“It’s a moment suspended in time, and that’s what makes events like this one so unforgettable,” he added.
“I’m drawn to the world of fine dining, exquisite clothing, and horse racing. It's a world rooted in excellence. I believe in only one economy: the economy of quality, and racing is definitely a part of that,” he stated.
55,000 black ants
The organizers of the Pegasus World Cup, the world’s richest race when it debuted in 2017 at Gulfstream Park in Florida, are eager to make their event a premier attraction and draw new audiences to the sport of horse racing.
In addition to performances by iconic rapper Snoop Dogg and renowned DJ Mark Ronson, this year’s culinary experience featured dishes and drinks from Swan and Bar Bevy, a Miami-based restaurant collaboration between hospitality mogul David Grutman, singer Pharrell Williams, and celebrity chef Jean Imbert.
Tim Rivto, Chief Operating Officer of Pegasus organizer The Stronach Group, shared with Dinogo, “It’s all about ushering racing into a new era and attracting fresh faces to the sport.”
The renowned Melbourne Cup Carnival at Flemington in Australia is another racing event where the hospitality offerings rival the horses in spectacle.
The exclusive Birdcage VIP area is the prime spot for socializing, with luxury brands competing to create the ultimate experience for attendees.
In 2018, celebrated New Zealand chef Ben Shewry stunned guests at the Lexus Pavilion with a dessert garnished with 55,000 crushed black ants.
Ben Shewry, the mastermind behind Attica, ranked No. 20 on the 2018 World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, created a dessert with a unique twist on Australia’s beloved lamington—traditional sponge cake coated in chocolate and coconut—topped with crushed black ants.
This year’s Lexus Pavilion saw renowned Australian chef Neil Perry, of Sydney’s Rockpool, serving bento boxes, while chefs Matt Stone and Jo Barret from Oakridge in Victoria’s Yarra Valley led a three-level, 90-seat restaurant.
Guests at the Lexus Pavilion could expect a menu that combined native Australian flavors with vibrant, repurposed spring produce, turning what would normally be wasted into something extraordinary.
Damien Lecarreaux, head of marketing at ParisLongchamp, emphasizes that their goal is to establish a true 'destination.'
Lecarreaux shared, 'While people come for the races, they also come for the overall experience.' He’s visited Royal Ascot multiple times to gain insights.
'We’re focusing on attracting younger generations—X, Y, and Z,' Lecarreaux explained. 'For years, horse racing has struggled to appeal to them, but we want to show them how enjoyable the event can be.'
Instead of relying on big-name chefs, Lecarreaux’s approach is centered on delivering high-quality experiences across the board.
'We need to consider who’s attending,' he said. 'It’s not just the French, but people from Australia, Japan, New Zealand, and China. Our food offerings must cater to a global audience.'
'It’s all about the experience now, and that goes beyond just the food and the races. The priority is to create a destination. In the past, it was all about yearly plans in France, but now we’re looking at a five-year strategy. If people enjoy the destination, they’ll return and bring their friends. The food plays a key role in that experience.'
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