Tracing the Journey of J.R.R. Tolkien in Switzerland’s Enchanting Lauterbrunnen Valley

As I stood at the gateway to Switzerland’s enchanting Lauterbrunnen Valley, an uncanny sense of recognition washed over me. Where had I previously encountered this breathtaking scene, a lush, narrow valley flanked by towering cliffs adorned with cascading waterfalls that shimmer like silver ribbons?

A whimsical illustration from my childhood edition of The Hobbit danced in my mind, showcasing the elvish haven of Rivendell, lovingly crafted by J.R.R. Tolkien himself. Pulling up the image to compare with the stunning landscape before me, I was struck by the striking resemblance. In that moment, it dawned on me that this legendary author must have stood exactly where I was, his wonderment sparking the inspiration for Middle Earth.

I made this revelation during a week-long trip in May with my daughter, where we stayed deep within the Lauterbrunnen Valley, just a short 10-minute walk from the village at Camping Jungfrau. The collection of quaint cabins, bungalows, and tent sites surrounding a vibrant restaurant and twinkling garden truly captured the essence of magic in the air. Right above us, the powerful Staubach Waterfall, so close its mist kissed our faces, lulled us to sleep with its thunderous roar each night.

Lauterbrunnen, which translates to ‘clear springs,’ truly lived up to its name. Visiting in the springtime, I was surrounded by water at every turn, trickling from rocky crevices, flowing through streams and rivers, and cascading down cliffs in a series of waterfalls that locals assured us numbered 72 during the peak of the snowmelt.

I wasn't alone in drawing the Tolkien connection; a deeper exploration into Tolkienology uncovered intriguing details about the author's journey through the Bernese Alps in 1911, when he was just 19. Guided by an eccentric aunt, who some researchers suggest may have inspired Gandalf, young J.R.R. Tolkien, along with his brother Hilary and a colorful group of relatives and friends, spent weeks traversing these glacier-formed valleys and snowy passes that would ignite his imagination for a lifetime.

While scholars and readers have attempted to trace Tolkien's path based on letters, journals, conversations, and guest book signatures, much of it remains unclear. However, his connection to The Hobbit—which he wouldn’t write for another 25 years—is unmistakable: he mentioned it in a letter to his son Michael in 1967, when he was 76 years old.

Tolkien noted, “Bilbo’s journey from Rivendell to beyond the Misty Mountains, including the slide down the slippery stones into the pine forests, is inspired by my adventures in 1911.” He confessed that while his “wanderings with a party of 12 are not precisely clear in order,” they trekked largely on foot, carrying heavy packs, from Interlaken, mainly via mountain trails, to Lauterbrunnen, Mürren, and finally to the head of Lauterbrunnenthal, amidst a wilderness of moraines.

Yet, you don’t need academic validation to feel the presence of hobbits, dwarfs, elves, orcs, and dragons as you wander through the soaring peaks and valleys of the Jungfrau region. With its quaint villages nestled deep in valleys and precariously perched on cliffs, the village of Lauterbrunnen, positioned in the valley’s V and graced by the White Lütschine River, bears an uncanny resemblance to Rivendell. The towering Misty Mountains—represented by the Eiger (13,024 feet), Mönch (13,448 feet), and Jungfrau (13,641 feet)—loom at the valley’s end like enigmatic guardians.

While there's no evidence that Tolkien ever set foot at Trümmelbach Falls, an underground marvel and UNESCO World Heritage site, we couldn't help but envision Smaug and the dwarves' Kingdom Under the Mountain as we navigated the rock-hewn tunnels and cliffside paths connecting its ten subterranean cascades.

Another enchanting location that might be mistaken for Middle Earth is the St. Beatus Caves near Lake Thun, showcasing a maze of caverns adorned with stalactites and stalagmites, along with underground pools linked by passages reminiscent of Gollum’s hidden lake.

These days, reaching Mürren doesn't require a hike; we simply strolled through the valley to Stechelberg and hopped on the world’s steepest cable car. This thrilling ride offers breathtaking views through its glass walls and floor as it climbs nearly 3,000 feet to the village perched at 5,450 feet.

With its chalets, hotels, and restaurants cascading down a steep slope connected by stairs, this car-free village boasts some of the most stunning vistas in the region; one restaurant terrace juts dramatically over the valley floor. A scenic path meanders down to nearby Gimmelwald, passing by 500-year-old farmhouses, hay sheds, and hillsides where curious cows and playful goats roam.

Across the valley, the village of Wengen is perhaps the most famous among those surrounding Lauterbrunnen, thanks to the ski slopes that rise directly behind it and the Maennlichen cable car that transports visitors to Jungfraujoch, known as the Top of Europe.

However, it was the creaking cogwheel Wengernalp train that links Lauterbrunnen with Wengen and Grindelwald that truly evoked memories of Tolkien’s travels. As the late afternoon sun bathed the valley in golden light during our descent, I was once again reminded of Tolkien’s vibrant universe and the escape it offered me and countless others as we navigated our own lives. This mountain-enclosed valley, with its towering cliffs and glacier-fed waterfalls, has inspired awe and provided an escape for all who venture into its majestic embrace.

As we continued our winding descent down the mountainside, each switchback revealing a new breathtaking view, I realized that this train—the longest cogwheel railway in Europe—made its inaugural journey in 1892. It made me ponder how likely it was that Tolkien and his group of twelve embarked on this same ride twenty years later.

Taking out my phone to revisit his painting of Rivendell, I soon found my answer.