Traveling across Kazakhstan by train - a two-week voyage through a forgotten era

Once a hidden gem, Kazakhstan now invites adventurous travelers with open arms.

This Central Asian nation boasts a fascinating blend of Silk Road heritage, remnants of the Soviet past, and seemingly endless landscapes.

I ventured into the steppes of Kazakhstan to uncover more about a region many travelers overlook. Captivated by the history and nostalgia of ex-Soviet railways, I set off on a two-week train expedition across the country. With multiple stops, I boarded seven different trains, starting from Astana (now Nur-Sultan) in the chilly north and journeying to ancient Turkestan in the warmer south. These long rides felt like a passage through a bygone era. On these Soviet-era trains, a unique mix of vintage and comfort slowed time, and the thrill of the unknown called out to me.

Kazakhstan’s trains are free of backpackers and businesspeople © Juan Martinez

On board, I didn’t encounter the usual crowd of young backpackers with inter-rail passes or businessmen glued to their laptops. Instead, there was a warm sense of community and connection. Strangers engaged in lively conversations, families cooked warm soups and local dumplings (manti) in their compartments, and men enjoyed card games while sipping on beers.

As dusk fell, the train’s ambiance shifted dramatically. Seats transformed into snug beds, turning each carriage into a little sanctuary. Some passengers brewed tea to share with new friends, while others constructed blanket forts for added privacy. Even without a common language, we communicated through gestures and our mutual appreciation of pop culture.

Traversing the largest landlocked country in the world

My adventure kicked off in Kazakhstan’s capital, Astana. Here, I mapped out my itinerary, which included hopping on high-speed trains to cities like Almaty and later Turkestan. I spent several days discovering the attractions of each city and took day trips to nearby sites, using regional trains or shared taxis for convenience.

Kazakhstan’s train system provides numerous options for travelers. The 1200km (745-mile) journey between the largest cities can be completed in just over 15 hours on fast trains (starting at €40), while regional trains offer a slower, budget-friendly alternative with a 24-hour trip starting at only €15. Accommodations range from dormitory-style cabins to more private four- or two-berth options.

A day trip from Astana to Burabay National Nature Park revealed breathtaking views of lakes and forests © iStockphoto / Getty Images

Days 1 to 3: Astana

Though my stay in Astana was brief, it was crucial for my travels. Here, I planned my journey and previewed what was to come. Unfortunately, the city's severe weather hampered my exploration, with heavy snow and freezing temperatures lasting well into May.

I managed a brief trip to Burabay National Nature Park, a stunning haven of lakes and forests located three hours away by train. (Tickets are €5 each way; I recommend reserving them in advance due to limited availability.) This journey also immersed me in the vibrant atmosphere of the open wagon, adding a thrilling element to the experience.

Karaganda, situated two hours south of Astana, was another possible stop. However, I opted to pass after locals informed me that it mainly attracts those interested in the USSR’s industrial history and requires more time to explore.

A surprising hipster vibe made the city of Almaty particularly enticing © Omri Eliyahu / Shutterstock

Days 4 to 10: Almaty

From Astana, I set off on the 15-hour overnight trek to Almaty aboard Kazakhstan's fastest train, the Talgo. To ensure a comfortable night, I booked a spot in a four-berth compartment for €37 a few days ahead of my journey. I packed plenty of snacks for dinner and breakfast, only to find that the restaurant car featured a delightful menu at very reasonable prices.

In Almaty, I discovered that arranging day trips to explore the breathtaking natural landscapes of southern Kazakhstan was a breeze, thanks to shared taxis and local tour operators.

With a wealth of outdoor destinations and day trips, Almaty became my main hub during my stay in Kazakhstan. The city's intriguing mix of Soviet nostalgia and unexpected hipster culture captivated me, encouraging me to explore not only its surroundings but also Almaty’s trendy cafes and lively bars.

The stunning blue-domed Yasaui Mausoleum in Turkestan took my breath away © Keren Su / Getty Images

Days 11 to 14: Turkestan

I boarded another fast train for a 12-hour ride to Turkestan. Choosing a VIP two-berth compartment with a private bathroom, I reserved both seats for myself at a total of €52, ensuring a comfortable and luxurious experience that was well worth the price.

With warm weather, clear blue skies, and ancient Islamic architecture, Turkestan was a refreshing change from the former Soviet landscapes I'd encountered in Kazakhstan. The highlight was the magnificent Yasaui Mausoleum, boasting a blue dome and over seven centuries of history. I also took a day trip on a regional train (€4 for three hours) to Shymkent, where I visited the bustling bazaar and learned why locals claim this town has the best food in the country.

Though my adventure in Kazakhstan came to an end here, I couldn’t help but envision the journeys I could have taken further into this expansive country. With more time, I could have embarked on a 25-hour train ride to the westernmost city of Aktau on the Caspian Sea (tickets starting at €43). Alternatively, I could have made a complete round trip back to Astana, claiming to have circled the largest landlocked country in the world.

Kazakhstan boasts a vast railway network linking major cities and picturesque destinations © Juan Martinez

Tips for planning a rail journey in Kazakhstan

The ideal times to visit: April–May and September–October

The weather during these transitional months strikes a pleasant balance between warm and cool, allowing for greater exploration of Kazakhstan’s diverse landscapes. During my trip in early May, I experienced temperatures ranging from a chilly 2°C (36°F) in the north to a warm 30°C (86°F) in the south.

How to find train routes

Kazakhstan features a comprehensive railway network that links major cities and scenic spots. Start by identifying the key destinations you want to explore (Dinogo Planet Central Asia is a great resource), then map out the train connections between them. Consider journey durations, train schedules, and the availability of sleeper or express trains for longer distances. I found my routes using Tickets.kz.

How to purchase tickets

Once you’ve determined your travel plans, you can book tickets online via the official website of Kazakhstan Temir Zholy (KTZ), the national railway service. However, the site can be quite buggy for non-Russian speakers, often leading to credit card declines. Instead, I purchased my tickets through Tickets.kz, which accepts foreign cards, offers refunds if needed, and provides electronic tickets. In Kazakhstan, you can also buy tickets at local train stations or authorized travel agencies, but it’s wise to book in advance to secure your desired travel dates and class of service.

Service classes on trains in Kazakhstan

Kazakh trains offer various classes of service, ranging from economy to luxury. Regional trains feature comfortable seating in economy class, while sleeper cabins provide berths for overnight trips. Most long-distance trains include a standard Soviet-era platzkart (open wagon), Kupe (four-berth cabin), and SV/Lyux (two-berth cabin). The Talgo trains also offer a VIP version of the SV/Lyux, complete with an en-suite bathroom and shower.

For daytime journeys, I suggest opting for an open wagon to connect with the locals. For overnight trips, having your own bed and private space can be incredibly beneficial.

Traveling on a train through Kazakhstan, the sheer vastness of the country is breathtaking © Juan Martinez

Incorporate flexibility into your travel plans

When organizing your train journey, it’s wise to build some flexibility into your itinerary, as trains in Kazakhstan can sometimes face delays or changes in schedule. This proved particularly useful during my long trip from Almaty to Turkestan, which was delayed by over two hours.

Cultural tips for traveling on trains in Kazakhstan

It's important to understand local customs and etiquette. While aboard the train, be mindful of your fellow passengers' personal space and adhere to any guidelines given by the train staff. Each compartment has a train attendant who keeps track of all booked seats. While they may not speak English, they are generally friendly and willing to help. A Russian-English translation app can be quite useful for communication—trust me, it helped me more than you'd expect.