Traveling by train in Italy - everything you need to know

Italy is among the most rail-friendly nations globally, featuring fast, comfortable, and affordable trains that reach nearly every part of the bel paese (beautiful country).

Famous for crafting supersonic Ferraris and Lamborghinis, Italians have also designed some of Europe’s quickest trains. The bullet-shaped Frecce trains come in three categories, led by the high-speed Frecciarossa 1000, which can cruise at an impressive 300 km/h (186 mph).

For those who prefer a leisurely pace, one of Italy’s greatest joys is riding a medium-speed treno regionale (regional train) along the sun-kissed Mediterranean coast, where terraced hills, beach umbrellas, and colorful towns drift by.

The Italian railway system

A popular myth claims that Mussolini ensured Italy’s trains ran on time. While Il Duce did modernize the outdated rail system and construct some impressive stations, he didn’t eliminate train delays altogether. Today, while major delays are rare, it’s common to experience 10- to 20-minute holdups, particularly on regional services. To avoid tight connections, it’s advisable to book direct trains whenever possible.

Another challenge for rail travelers in Italy is the occasional random scioperi (strikes), a part of the Italian culture that can effectively paralyze public transportation. Notices about impending strikes are generally released several days ahead of time.

The majority of Italian trains are operated by the state-owned company Trenitalia, which was reestablished in its current form in 2000. Trenitalia holds a significant portion of the country's train services, managing a vast network that spans over 16,000 km (about 9,940 miles) across all 20 regions. In addition, there are several smaller, privately-operated railways, primarily catering to tourists.

Under the Trenitalia brand, you’ll find three primary categories of trains:

• Regionale: These are the slowest and most affordable trains, stopping at nearly every station.

• Intercity (IC): Faster services that link major cities.

• Alta Velocità (AV): This includes Frecciarossa, Frecciargento, and Frecciabianca models, which connect key cities with speeds of 300 km/h, 250 km/h, and 200 km/h (186, 155, and 124 mph) respectively.

Adding some competition is the private operator Italo, managed by NTV (Nuovo Trasporto Viaggitori). Italo trains come in two varieties, AGVs and EVOs, which are comparable to Trenitalia’s Frecciarossa and Frecciargento in terms of speed and service.

The rivalry between Frecce and Italo has resulted in high standards and competitive pricing. Frecciarossa trains feature on-board cafes and four distinct classes, while Italo trains boast a more upscale aesthetic.

High-speed Italo trains connect major cities like Turin, Milan, Bologna, Florence, Rome, Naples, and Salerno. They also offer routes to northern cities such as Brescia, Verona, and Venice.

Frecce trains operate a similar network but extend further south to Reggio Calabria. An additional line along the east coast connects Ancora, Pescara, Bari, and Lecce.

Intercity and regional trains serve the remainder of the country, including Sicily and Sardinia. There are very few significant towns in Italy that you can’t reach by train.

AV trains have cut travel times between Rome and Naples to just over an hour and between Rome and Milan to under three hours, with departures every 30 minutes.

All trains, from AV models to regionales, are well-maintained, with new rolling stock—including double-decker carriages—introduced every few years.

Italy’s train stations range from the expansive Stazione Termini in Rome, which resembles a mini-city filled with shops, bars, and restaurants, to small, single-platform stations that hikers find at the end of their treks. Most medium-sized towns feature a centrally located station with a bar where you can enjoy at least a caffè (coffee) and a panino, although the toilets may be a bit questionable (some have attendants who charge €1).

Ticketing and reservations

Ticket costs fluctuate based on train type, service class, travel time, and how far ahead you book. The upscale Frecciarossa trains offer four classes: standard, premium, business, and executive, with prices rising by 25% for premium, 60% for business, and 100% for executive. Italo trains feature three classes: smart, prima, and club, with comparable pricing structures to Frecciarossas.

Other Trenitalia trains provide first and second-class seating, with first-class tickets generally costing one-third to one-half more than second-class fares.

Tickets for Frecce/Italo trains and Intercity services can be purchased up to four months ahead, but due to frequent service, they rarely sell out. You can reserve online via Trenitalia or Italo, or at a station in person, and a specific seat will be assigned upon booking.

Regionale trains, which halt at almost every station, don’t need reservations. Simply buy your ticket before you depart, hop on the train, and choose any available seat.

Multilingual ticket machines, known as biglietto veloce, are available at all Italian train stations and are user-friendly. They accept both cash and credit cards. Larger stations also have ticket clerks available during business hours. Booking in advance on AV trains can yield savings of up to 50% on certain routes if your travel plans are fixed, as refunds are not possible.

When to validate your tickets

Regional train tickets that aren’t dated must be stamped in green and grey convalida machines at the stations before boarding. Ticket inspectors may impose fines (around €50 if paid immediately) for travelers without validated tickets. While claiming ignorance might sometimes work, it's generally a risk not worth taking.

Tickets for AV and Intercity trains do not need validation since they are only valid for the specific service they are issued for.

Discounts, passes, and promotions

Trenitalia provides several discount passes, such as the Carta Verde (€40 for travelers aged 12 to 26) and the Carta d'Argento (€30 for those over 60). However, these are primarily beneficial for residents or long-term visitors, as they pay off with regular use over time.

Short-term travelers may find the Eurail and InterRail passes particularly appealing. InterRail passes, available online and at most major train stations, are designed for residents of Europe for over six months. The ‘Global Pass’ covers 33 countries, including Italy, and is offered in 10 variations, ranging from three days of travel within a month to three months of unlimited travel. There are four pricing tiers: youth (ages 12 to 27), adult (ages 28 to 59), senior (60+), and child (ages 4 to 11), with different rates for first and second class. Additionally, the InterRail one-country “Italy Pass” allows for three to eight days of travel within a month, but does not include reservation fees, which are required on all Italian trains except for the slower regionales.

Trenitalia offers a similar pass that is valid only for AV and Intercity trains (excluding regionales). You can choose a set number of journeys within a designated period. This pass is available in youth, adult, and senior versions.

The Eurail pass is a variant of the InterRail pass intended for non-European residents, functioning in a similar manner. Note that neither InterRail nor Eurail passes are accepted on Italo trains.

Eurail and InterRail passes may not always provide savings in Italy, as a reservation fee of €13 is still required for high-speed trains, while tickets for regular trains are generally affordable. Often, buying individual tickets for each trip proves to be more economical. Although Trenitalia passes are cheaper than same-day ticket purchases, they usually do not offer better value than purchasing tickets weeks in advance.

Train occupancy and types of trains

If you think Ferraris are fast, wait until you experience the Frecciarossa 1000, Italy’s arrow-shaped high-speed trains that soar to a top cruising speed of 300km/h (186 mph).

These sleek rockets on wheels outpace Italian sports cars and offer exceptional comfort, featuring leather seats, a complimentary glass of prosecco (in business and executive classes), and an enjoyable on-board café where the scenery changes every few moments.

In addition to the flagship Frecciarossa, Trenitalia operates Frecciargento (currently being phased out), Frecciabianca, and Intercity trains, all of which are quicker than driving, especially when considering traffic and parking hassles.

Intercity Notte trains provide overnight routes connecting the northern and southern parts of the country, reaching as far south as Syracuse in Sicily and Lecce in Puglia. Nottes offer one-, two-, and three-berth sleepers as well as four-berth couchettes.

If you're more focused on budget than speed, or if you want to visit smaller towns and villages, you'll likely be taking regionale trains. They are surprisingly affordable and stop at every station. While regionales may not have the lavishness of AVs, they are quite comfortable and ideal for those on a tight vacation budget.

Trains can become quite crowded, especially on popular routes and during summer holidays, but with a frequent service, you’ll seldom have trouble finding a seat.

Connectivity and comparisons

In major cities such as Naples, Milan, and Florence, stations are rarely more than a kilometer from the city center. Venice’s Santa Lucia station is right by the Grand Canal. Note that some cities have multiple train stations; for instance, Turin and Genoa each have two, while Rome boasts four, with Termini being the most central (the others are Tiburtina, Ostiense, and Trastevere).

For ease, affordability, and environmental friendliness, Italian trains often outshine cars, reaching even some of the country’s most secluded areas. However, notable regions like the Amalfi Coast, certain parts of rural Calabria and Basilicata, and much of Sardinia lack train service, requiring bus transfers instead.

Many Italian airports are conveniently located on train lines, including Rome Fiumicino and Milan Malpensa. For those that aren’t, quick tram or bus connections typically provide easy access.

Service features

Restaurant cars have largely disappeared from Italian trains, and even food trolleys are becoming uncommon. However, Frecciarossa trains still feature a staffed bar/cafe, charmingly called the Freccia Bistrò. In Executive and Business classes, passengers receive a food box delivered directly to their seat. Italo trains and Trenitalia’s regionale and Intercity services offer only vending machines.

Nearly all Italian trains, including regional services, are equipped with charging points for phones and laptops (though their functionality can be inconsistent). Freccia and Italo trains additionally provide free wi-fi.

Most Italian trains feature at least two clean and spacious toilets, offering much more room than those found on airplanes. It’s wise to bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer, just in case they aren’t stocked.

Luggage is generally not a problem; there are no extra fees or designated baggage cars. You can bring on whatever you can carry. Assembled bicycles are permitted on regionale and Intercity trains for a €0 fee, while disassembled bikes can ride for free on AV trains.

Carriages typically have an open-plan design with generous legroom and plenty of luggage racks. Most seats come with tables—either fold-down or shared. In the executive class of Frecciarossa trains, you’ll find swiveling leather seats, cold meal trays, a meeting room, and a bottle of prosecco served at your table. Overall, traveling by train in Italy is significantly more comfortable and approximately 80% more eco-friendly than flying.

Top routes and travel advice

While Frecce trains zoom by, often blurring the landscape, to truly experience Italy’s breathtaking rail journeys, seek out smaller private lines or Trenitalia’s regional services and let go of rigid schedules.

Here are five must-try journeys:

• The stunning Vigezzina line (known as Centovalli in Switzerland) begins in Domodossola, Piedmont, crossing 83 bridges in a two-hour journey through alpine beauty, ending in Locarno, Switzerland.

• Sardinia’s leisurely Trenino Verde, upgraded in the 1990s, operates four summer-only tourist trains along narrow-gauge tracks, exploring some of the island’s hidden gems.

• The narrow-gauge Ferrovia Circumetnea departs from Catania in Sicily, nearly encircling Mt Etna on a quaint locomotive resembling a trolleybus, crossing lemon orchards and lava fields with stops every five minutes.

• Hop on any Trenitalia regionale train along the Levante Riviera from La Spezia to Genoa for glimpses of sunbathers, cliffside villages, and the azure Mediterranean as you weave through coastal tunnels.

• The bustling Circumvesuviana line, part of the Neapolitan metro, transports visitors from Naples to Sorrento, offering views of Mt Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples while heading to the historic sites of Herculaneum and Pompeii.

Accessibility

All AV trains feature clearly marked carriages that include two dedicated wheelchair seats and space for a companion. Additionally, these carriages are fitted with spacious accessible restrooms.

Italian stations are equipped with extensive braille signage and wheelchair ramps for easier access.

At 15 Italian stations, specialized Sala Blu offices provide free assistance for everyone, including wheelchair users, the visually impaired, and pregnant women. Stations with Sala Blu services include Milan, Venice, Turin, Rome, and Naples.

Arriving in Italy via train

Some of the most scenic train journeys in Italy extend beyond its borders. The Brenner Pass route connects Munich to Venice, often regarded as one of Europe’s best train rides, while the Euronight overnight train between Rome and Vienna, featuring two-bed sleepers (starting at €100), offers an exciting experience for those trying a sleeper train for the first time.

For those with a budget of over €3000 who wish to immerse themselves in a Graham Greene novel or an Agatha Christie mystery, consider the Venice Simplon Orient-Express. This luxurious art deco train, operating roughly once a week from March to November, transforms your journey into a romantic experience as it travels from London (or Paris) to La Serenissima.

Since 2021, Frecciarossa trains have been offering quick connections between Milan, Turin, and Paris. By combining Eurostar and Frecciarossa services, you can make the journey from Milan to London in a single day for about €85, or to Paris for as low as €30, all while enjoying stunning alpine views along the way.