Traveling in Japan: What to Anticipate

This month, after two and a half years, Japan's borders will finally reopen completely. The country has taken a cautious approach throughout the pandemic; it was only in June 2022 that travelers in authorized tour groups were allowed entry, and in September, the policy shifted to permit visitors using Japan-based travel agents.

Starting October 11, independent tourists will finally have the freedom to explore the country without restrictions, provided they follow a few remaining COVID protocols. Travelers are required to be fully vaccinated with a booster shot or to present a negative COVID PCR test taken within 72 hours before departure. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan (MOFA) keeps a color-coded list of countries that outlines entry requirements, which may vary based on color coding. (Travelers from a “red” country must take a PCR test upon arrival and quarantine for three days.) The current limit of 50,000 daily arrivals will be lifted, and All Nippon Airways, one of Japan's primary airlines, has committed to increasing international flights and staffing to accommodate the surge in demand.

Japan's COVID-19 case and death rates remain impressively low compared to many other nations: the country has reported 21.5 million infections since the pandemic began, resulting in 45,286 deaths—a case fatality rate of 0.2 percent (as opposed to 1.1 percent in the United States), according to Johns Hopkins University. The nation quickly acknowledged aerosol transmission of COVID-19 and implemented strict masking protocols and enhanced ventilation systems across the country.

Following a peak of 31.9 million visitors in 2019, Japan welcomed only 246,000 travelers in 2021. With significant pent-up demand after two and a half years, combined with a weak yen—the lowest in 24 years—Japan is now a more affordable destination for international travelers. Luxuries such as sushi, wagyu beef, and upscale hotels are now more reasonably priced.

However, that’s not the only change. While the country is reopening, many pandemic-related practices that Japan adopted are still in effect. Here’s what travelers can anticipate on their upcoming visit to Japan.

Arriving in Japan

To make your entry into Japan smoother, ensure you have your physical vaccination certificate ready. The Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW) has set up an online Fast Track system. Download the MySOS app and upload the necessary documents; your app screen will turn blue or green once all information is submitted, and you’ll receive a QR code to present to customs and immigration officials.

Mask Guidelines

The Japanese government continues to strongly encourage the wearing of masks, and their use is widespread, particularly indoors where groups are talking. Although the government initially recommended that tourists wear masks in hotels and restaurants unless eating, hotel operators expressed concerns about enforceability, leading to a situation where masks are not formally required in these settings. Masks are also not mandatory outdoors, but their use is suggested if social distancing cannot be maintained.

In Japan, where being considerate is integral to daily life, wearing masks serves both personal protection and as a gesture of respect towards others. Most establishments display signs requesting patrons to wear masks. If you're not prepared to don a mask in line with local customs, you might want to postpone your trip to Japan.

Ventilation and Disinfection

Japan quickly recognized that proper ventilation is crucial in mitigating the spread of COVID-19, which is why many trains and restaurants continue to keep windows open—if they are already open, it's advisable to leave them as they are. Additionally, air hand dryers in restrooms have been turned off to prevent the dispersal of germs. Consider adopting local habits by carrying a small hand towel for drying your hands—these are readily available at department stores or 100-yen shops, which offer a variety of affordable goods.

Most shops provide hand sanitizing stations at both their entrances and exits. It's customary to sanitize your hands before entering any public area.

Temperature Checks

Temperature checks are still widely practiced throughout the nation, with many shops installing sensor monitors that automatically measure the temperatures of guests upon entry. Smaller dining establishments often check diners' temperatures before seating them.

Social Distancing

Social distancing is actively encouraged across the country, with signs reminding individuals to keep a distance of six feet apart. The general etiquette is to maintain some space from the person ahead of you in line, and when speaking in public, it’s advisable to lower your voice. While fans are permitted at sporting events, loud cheering is discouraged (clapping is acceptable).

Operating Hours

During the pandemic, many shops, restaurants, and bars, including several at Tsukiji Market that depended on tourists, were forced to close. With more people working from home and fewer outings after work hours, many restaurants have adjusted their operating hours, making it wise to call ahead. Additionally, Japan enforces strict COVID exposure protocols; if one staff member tests positive, colleagues are classified as close contacts and required to quarantine, which could leave restaurants without any personnel.

To ensure social distancing, many restaurants have reduced their seating capacity, so it’s advisable to make reservations whenever possible.

Cash versus Credit

In response to the pandemic, many shops began accepting credit cards to minimize contact between customers and staff; however, numerous establishments still operate on a cash-only basis. It’s wise to always carry some Japanese yen. In major urban areas like Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, you can find ATMs that dispense yen, but many do not accept foreign cards, and it becomes increasingly challenging in suburban and rural areas. If you find yourself in Japan without yen, don’t panic: over 26,000 ATMs at 7-Eleven stores throughout the country—including at Narita International and Tokyo International (Haneda)—do accept foreign cards. Additionally, Japanese post offices have ATMs that accommodate overseas cards, and you can identify a post office by its orange T symbol with a horizontal line above it.

Getting Around

Mask-wearing on public transport and in taxis continues to be a prevalent practice.

For convenient travel, visitors might consider getting a prepaid, reloadable Suica card, which can be used on trains, subways, and buses in Tokyo, and is also accepted at many convenience stores. Just tap the card when entering and exiting public transportation to avoid the hassle of buying individual tickets for each journey. If you're staying for an extended time, the Welcome Suica is a special prepaid card valid for 28 days, available at Narita, Haneda, and major train stations in Tokyo. Unlike regular prepaid cards, the Welcome Suica does not require a deposit.

Since May 2020, travelers on the shinkansen—Japan’s bullet trains—must reserve a special seat if they have oversized luggage, defined as any bag measuring between 160 and 250 cm (63 to 98 inches), essentially anything larger than a carry-on.

Sustainability

In response to the pandemic, stores now charge for plastic bags, so it’s wise to bring your own reusable bag or buy one upon arrival. Many restaurants provide disposable wooden chopsticks, known as warii, but bringing your own reusable chopsticks can help cut down on waste. These can be purchased at 100-yen shops or specialty chopstick stores.

The Atmosphere

Since the border closure, much of lively Tokyo has experienced a lull—especially areas like Tsukiji Market and the upscale Ginza shopping district—and those in the hospitality sector are eager to welcome tourists back. The most noticeable changes for visitors will be the prevalence of masks and the less crowded trains during rush hour due to many people working from home.

Despite some venues having shut down, there's plenty of new excitement in store: In Tokyo, Koffee Mameya Kakeru offers coffee flights and cocktails, while the renovated depachika food floor at Shibuya’s Tokyu department store is now open. Additionally, several new hotels debuted for the Tokyo Olympic and Paralympic Games, including the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi, Tokyo Edition Toranomon, and Aloft Tokyo Ginza. The gardens continue to be beautifully maintained, and the temples remain peaceful havens. In Kyoto, popular tourist spots like Fushimi Inari Taisha, Kinkaku-ji, and Nijo Castle are now much quieter. Overall, it’s a great time to explore Japan—but please remember to wear a mask.