Treehouses for Adults? Absolutely! A Review of Vermont’s New Elevated Accommodations

The Dinogo Perspective

Once the residence of Nobel Prize winner Sinclair Lewis and prominent journalist Dorothy Thompson from the late 1920s until the mid-1950s, Twin Farms, part of Relais & Châteaux, features a selection of distinctive cottages and suites that have been carefully preserved and enhanced, earning its place as one of the premier retreats in the Northeast. In Fall 2023, Twin Farms unveiled eight Treehouse accommodations set amidst the lush birch forests of the region. Having just moved from California to New York City, I’m starting to discover the area as a local, and Twin Farms stands out as the most enticing escape I’ve encountered so far.

The last private owner of the sprawling 300-acre Vermont estate was Thurston Twigg-Smith, a businessman and philanthropist who, near the end of his life, decided with a group of friends to open the property to paying guests, allowing them to experience it as he once had. Twigg collaborated with Andy Warhol’s partner and renowned interior designer Jed Johnson to reimagine Twin Farms’ 15 original guest rooms as a resort, which welcomed its first guests in 1993. The updates have largely preserved the original design elements. Today, there are 28 guest rooms, each crafted to be unique and eclectic, blending a strong sense of design with comfort. Much of Twigg’s remarkable art collection, featuring works by David Hockney, Cy Twombly, and Jasper Johns, is showcased throughout the estate.

Twigg-Smith was known to stroll the property each day, and the ability to access the grounds is one of the defining features of this resort. An extensive network of trails allows visitors to fully immerse themselves in this stunning part of Vermont throughout the year, except during early spring (mud season), when Twin Farms temporarily closes for renovations and routine maintenance (dates vary each year; in 2024, the closure is from March 10 to May 2). The gardens and grounds, designed by landscape architect Dan Kiley, feature a natural aesthetic, including wooded areas, meadows filled with wildflowers in spring, a large pond, and even a ski hill.

Twigg-Smith and his friends envisioned a setting where guests felt like friends visiting for a few days, and today, the resort continues to embody that warm, nontransactional atmosphere. Meals, drinks, and most activities are included in the relatively high daily rates. The 120 staff members (catering to a maximum of 56 guests) quickly build a friendly and attentive rapport with visitors while allowing them the privacy they may desire.

Who is it for?

Twin Farms is perfect for couples and groups celebrating a special occasion. Please note that children under 14 are not permitted. It is best suited for those seeking a peaceful retreat to enjoy a luxurious few days filled with outdoor activities on a beautiful Vermont estate with minimal other guests.

Rates start at $2,800 per night for a room in the historic Main House built in 1795, $3,500 for the Treehouse accommodations, and can go up to $5,500 per night for the most luxurious Cottage. These rates cover all meals, beverages, most activities, and gratuities for two guests (spa treatments and premium liquors incur additional charges). The average stay is three nights; I spent two nights there and wished I could have extended my visit.

The Location

Twin Farms is nestled in the picturesque Vermont countryside, just outside Barnard. It’s particularly perfect for travelers who can drive there (the resort is a three-hour drive from Boston and five hours from New York City). The closest major airport is Burlington, located about 90 minutes away.

Spanning 300 acres, the property features lush woods, expansive meadows, rolling hills, and a picturesque nine-acre pond. With nine miles of trails, it's perfect for hiking, biking, and cross-country skiing. Although downhill skiing is available, the resort doesn't promote it due to the lack of snowmaking facilities.

Adjacent to the resort are the Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Park, the Simon Pearce glass factory in Quechee, and a number of charming Vermont towns, including the historic Woodstock.

Accommodations

The accommodations vary in design and location across the estate, yet each room comes equipped with dual sinks, a bathtub, a shower, and a fireplace (wood or gas). Most rooms also feature private outdoor areas or enclosed patios.

The historic Main House features four rooms, which also hosts the main restaurant and a small, yet adequate bar. Adjacent to it is The Lodge, offering two suites and a communal area, currently available as a combined two-bedroom unit. Scattered across the estate are ten cottages, nine of which have been part of the property since its 1993 opening. The Aviary, a stunning two-level, 950-square-foot contemporary cottage crafted from glass, stone, and cedar, is the most sought-after and was opened in 2005.

The Farmhouse at Copper Hill, added in 2005 and designed by architect Peter Bohlin with interiors by Thad Hayes, contains four suites located about a ten-minute stroll from the Main House. Recently remodeled, these suites are interconnected by a lounge and library and can be booked individually or as a complete unit.

I stayed in one of Twin Farms' eight newly built Treehouses scattered around the property, and I instantly fell in love. Each about 800 square feet, these accommodations offer a modern twist on the childhood treehouses I remember. Featuring ample windows and situated close to Twin Farms’ picturesque woods, the luxurious amenities include floor-to-ceiling windows around the king bed, creating a feeling of sleeping among the trees, complete with a gas fireplace, air conditioning, and all modern comforts. There’s also a living room, a deck, a dining area stocked with refreshments, and a spacious bathroom.

Culinary Offerings

During your stay, all meals, wine pairings, and spirits are included in the rate, whether it’s dining in your room, enjoying a picnic on the grounds, or indulging in a full-service meal at one of the two restaurants. Twin Farms cultivates many of its own herbs and produce, and chef Nathan Rich sources nearly all ingredients locally.

The Main Dining Room boasts elegant vaulted beam ceilings and a grand fieldstone fireplace. An adjoining room features another fireplace overlooking the gardens, while the Terrace offers outdoor dining during the warmer months, serving as the main spot for breakfast and lunch. Though I'm not typically a breakfast person, I couldn't resist the local butter, cheese, eggs, and breads. Even months later, I still dream about the fried chicken sandwich I enjoyed for lunch: buttermilk-brined chicken thigh, seasoned panko crust, served on a brioche bun with sriracha aioli, Napa cabbage, and pickled carrots.

For dinner, the Main Dining Room presents a tasting menu. This spring, they are expanding to nine courses and introducing a separate à la carte menu featuring seasonal dishes that highlight estate-grown produce and local suppliers. While the Main Dining Room is lovely, I preferred the more laid-back Twiggs restaurant for dinner, which opened in 2022. Twiggs has a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, with guests choosing to dine in booths, comfy chairs by the fireplace, or at the bar. The menu changes with the seasons and focuses on the Argentine wood-fired grill, offering appetizers, snacks, soups, salads, burgers, and steaks. I savored the grilled lamb chops, perfectly charred and absolutely divine.

Personnel and Service

Many of the staff at Twin Farms have been with the resort for years, creating a welcoming atmosphere that makes you feel right at home. Upon my arrival, instead of a formal check-in, I was greeted by Jacob Page, the activities manager, who guided me around and discussed the various activity options available. During lunch, I quickly noticed that every employee I encountered introduced themselves with warmth and a genuine eagerness to assist.

Managing Director John Graham shared that while the staff may not always adhere to formalities (though they do quite well), their primary focuses are to be friendly and ensure guests' happiness. This positive attitude is evident, especially concerning the activities offered.

Following my arrival lunch, I headed to the Carriage House, a well-equipped activities center, and expressed to Jacob my desire to explore the property on foot. To protect my boots, he provided me with an excellent pair from their extensive inventory. The resort offers fantastic maps for the nine miles of well-marked trails, and the activities coordinators are a valuable resource for recommendations and can even serve as guides if you prefer. I enjoyed a mixture of flat and inclined trails (Twin Farms features a hill used for skiing and sledding in winter) and concluded my exploration at the spa. After my massage, Brenda Hillier, who has been with Twin Farms since the very beginning, picked me up in a house Volvo SUV and delivered me back to my Treehouse, along with the boots I had left in the Carriage House—a thoughtful touch.

Accessibility

Twin Farms provides two ADA-accessible guest rooms in the common areas for visitors. All spaces in the Main House are wheelchair accessible, and there is a designated route from the parking area to the main entrance. Service animals are welcomed without any extra charges. The ADA-accessible guest rooms feature a visual alarm, closed-captioning television, and a telephone with volume control to accommodate guests with audio or visual impairments.

The furo bathhouse

The renovated furo, a Japanese-inspired bathhouse, is perfect for unwinding after a day of outdoor adventures. Located a short distance from the spa, it features an 8,000-gallon heated saltwater pool and an overhead shower activated with a button. As I enjoyed the warm water, I opened the windows to let in a refreshing breeze. The furo is available by reservation only, ensuring guests have it exclusively for their use. While it includes two changing rooms equipped with toilets and showers, I opted for the easy route and had a car pick me up in my robe, taking me back to my charming Treehouse, where I could clean up at my own pace, which was quite leisurely. From $2,800