Turkey’s Hidden Alpine Paradise

Nestled on the Black Sea coast near Turkey’s northeastern border with Georgia, Rize province remains a largely undiscovered gem for international visitors. This pristine region is home to some of the country’s most untouched alpine landscapes, captivating nature enthusiasts who seek a less-traveled path.

Beyond Rize city, the heart of the province, the surrounding valleys and plateaus are bordered by towering mountain ridges, preserving a rural charm. With abundant rainfall, Rize’s mountain villages (known as yayla) provide a refreshing escape from the summer heat.

Çamlıhemşin, a serene district in Rize, stands out as the region's most captivating area. The town and its surroundings are a refuge of natural beauty. Simple guesthouses, cafes run by people who’ve traded city life for a simpler existence, and local artists inspired by the area's tranquility make this place truly unique.

From the Black Sea, the journey to Çamlıhemşin takes you through a lush mountainous valley, alongside the rushing Fırtına River, which flows down from the majestic Kaçkar Mountains.

In this tranquil haven of pastures, valleys, and alpine villages, time feels like it has stopped. Forestry, beekeeping, and animal husbandry remain the primary livelihoods. Here’s a guide to exploring around Çamlıhemşin.

Authentic Stays

Many of Çamlıhemşin’s traditional Karadeniz (Black Sea) homes, with their wooden-frame facades, are now family-run guesthouses where visitors can immerse themselves in local culture.

With limited dining options in the area, hosts often take it upon themselves to offer guests home-cooked meals. The highlight is the traditional Turkish breakfast, which features local specialties like mıhlama—a warm dish of melted cheese and cornmeal, served alongside fresh bread.

At Puli Mini Hotel, a traditional Karadeniz house made of weathered chestnut wood and stone, located in the heart of Çamlıhemşin, almost every window offers a view of the Fırtına River. The fresh mountain air gently moves the simple white curtains in the six cozy rooms. The café at Puli serves inventive dishes made with local ingredients, from stuffed vine leaves to tavada hamsili pilav (baked anchovy rice).

A bit further up the mountainside, Dudi Konak stands out with its historic stone and wood facade, embodying the classic charm of a traditional Karadeniz home.

Built in the early 20th century by the Tarakçıoğlu family, who made their fortune as bakers and hoteliers in Russia, this once-decaying mansion has been carefully restored to offer 24 modern rooms, each with stunning views of the valley and the surrounding landscapes.

Living Above It All

High up in the mountains, about an hour south of Çamlıhemşin town center, Rize’s yayla (alpine villages) capture the essence of local life. Staying here feels more like visiting a family in their mountain retreat than a typical tourist experience.

The roads leading to these remote areas are often rough and undeveloped, requiring a 4x4 vehicle. Accommodations are typically traditional Karadeniz houses, perched at high altitudes with panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes.

Spending a few days in the yayla to trek through lush pastures and forests, discover wildflowers, and inhale the pure mountain air is the highlight of the Rize experience.

In the alpine village of Pokut, Zeyne and Ahmet Şişman have been welcoming visitors like family for years at their charming guesthouse Plato’da Mola. Overlooking the stunning Fırtına Valley, this traditional village home features six cozy rooms where guests awaken to the scent of freshly baked bread and the sound of cowbells in the distance.

The family’s homemade meals center around the milk from their free-range cows and the bounties of nature that surround them. You’ll enjoy fresh clotted cream, cheese, butter, honey, jams, eggs from their own chickens, homemade bread, and garden-grown produce.

In the village of Gito, retired couple Fatma and İbrahim Birben opened their home to guests, believing that beauty only grows when shared.

Their guesthouse Son Mohikan Dağ Evi invites nature lovers with its simple rooms and a terrace that offers breathtaking views of the mountains. After a day of exploring the plateau on foot, guests enjoy home-cooked meals followed by intimate concerts from the musically talented family.

A Mountain Fortress

One of the most awe-inspiring sights in Rize, rivaled only by the Sümela Monastery near Trabzon, Zilkale Castle rises unexpectedly in the valley, with the snow-capped Kaçkar Mountains looming behind it.

Dating back to the 14th or 15th century, Zilkale is believed to have originally been an Armenian chapel, later transformed into a castle by the Ottomans in the 19th century. The inner castle, accessible by a stone path, offers spectacular views of the valley beyond its stone walls.

Where the Past Meets the Present

Located about five miles south of Çamlıhemşin town, the village of Şenyuva has become a sanctuary for former city dwellers who returned to their Rize roots in search of a simpler life.

A charming contrast to its traditional surroundings, Zua Coffee is the only third-wave coffee shop in the village, run by Apo and Elif Taşkın, who relocated from Istanbul. The café, a favorite among locals and visitors, offers espresso blends with a tranquil view of nature. The couple also forages for ingredients, crafting desserts with elderflowers, wild strawberries, and blackberries.

“We thought a peaceful life in Rize would be enough, so we decided to settle here after we got married. Now, we have a four-year-old son and a small group of friends,” says Elif, originally from the area.

“While activities may be few in this area, the sense of fulfillment derived from being surrounded by nature is incomparable. The visiting season for the alpine villages runs from late May to mid-October. We recommend staying at one of the local guesthouses to fully immerse yourself in the region's culture and cuisine.

“We also highly recommend hiring local guides to explore the trekking paths and to truly appreciate the region's vibrant culture. Online maps fall short, and the weather can be quite unpredictable. Uğur Biryol from Pokutsal Tur is one of our most trusted guides.”

Adjacent to Zua, Peri Dükkan’s pastel blue door invites you to explore a delightful selection of Black Sea specialties, all with a focus on local, sustainable, and organic products. Owner Deniz Demirci Tarakçı offers honey vinegar, homemade syrups crafted from local fruits and flowers, herbal teas from the Kaçkar mountains, as well as candles, soaps, textiles, and more.

Directly across from Peri, Çinçiva Kafe is one of the few places serving authentic Black Sea dishes. Located in a traditional wooden house with a terrace overlooking the river, the café offers a full Turkish breakfast featuring homemade pastries, jams, cheeses, olives, and mıhlama – all complemented by endless cups of freshly brewed Turkish tea. Lunch and dinner options include local trout cooked in butter, potatoes with clotted cream, düğün kızartması (fried meat), and cornbread with vegetables.

The Artists of Rize

No More Lies, a renowned street artist from Istanbul, hails from Rize and has spent every summer in the mountains since his childhood. “Peace and serenity define this place,” he reflects. “I had friends from Istanbul visit, and they never wanted to leave. The stillness and the view alone were enough for them – they didn’t need anything more.”

From his workspace in his mountain home, the artist gazes out over the evergreen valley, often blanketed in morning fog. “The yayla are a major draw for visitors. My personal favorite is Elevit Yaylası, as it remains untouched by tourism. The village is free of cafes, and the people live in isolation, keeping to their homes,” he shares.

“I’d recommend avoiding Ayder Yaylası, a village that’s become overly crowded and touristy over time. Instead, consider visiting villages like Amlakit and Hazindağ, which still offer an authentic and natural beauty.”

After living in cities like Barcelona and Istanbul, followed by three years as a nomadic plant hunter, botanical artist Işık Güner chose to settle in Rize in 2015. Now, she resides in a cabin atop a mountain in the Fırtına Valley.

“I spent every summer of my childhood in Çamlıhemşin, and when you have a happy childhood, the memories, the tastes, and the smells stay with you forever,” she shares.

“Here, I’m surrounded by flowers, which is essential for my work, and it’s impossible not to draw inspiration from this place,” she says.

“Tourism in Rize isn’t ideal, as many visitors arrive without a true understanding of the local culture or nature. They need to learn how to navigate these untouched, wild landscapes and how to respect the local flora and fauna,” she explains.

“I believe that the goal of visiting Rize shouldn’t be to rush through and snap a few selfies. It should involve staying in a yayla for a while, breathing in the fresh air, taking in the natural scents, and drinking from its streams. Only then can you truly understand the place and become part of its extraordinary natural world,” she concludes.

Feride Yalav-Heckeroth is a freelance writer who splits her time between Istanbul and Lake Constance. She is also the author of 'The 500 Hidden Secrets of Istanbul'. Her work has appeared in publications such as Kinfolk, Brownbook, The Travel Almanac, Wallpaper*, Travel + Leisure, and Conde Nast Traveler.