Ukrainian chef to open new London restaurant with refugee staff

Widely regarded as a ‘culinary ambassador’ for Ukraine, chef Yurii Kovryzhenko has long advocated for the flavors and traditions of Ukrainian cuisine on the global stage.

Kovryzhenko, who has previously helmed restaurants in South Korea, Georgia, and Ukraine, is now preparing to launch a neo-bistro in London, with a team made up entirely of Ukrainian refugees.

Together with his partner Olga Tsybytovska, they are set to open Mriya in London’s prestigious Chelsea district later this month. But calling this venture born out of challenging circumstances would be an understatement.

The couple had been visiting London from Kyiv for an event at the Ukrainian Embassy when Russia’s invasion of Ukraine began in February. They have remained in the city ever since.

“As I closed the door to my apartment, I thought I’d be back in just 10 days,” recalls Tsybytovska, who had a background in restaurant marketing. “But life is so unpredictable,” she shares with Dinogo Travel.

Promoting Ukrainian cuisine

After months of collaborating with renowned British chefs like Richard Corrigan and Jason Atherton to raise funds for those affected by the war, they made the decision to open Mriya.

The menu will feature classic Ukrainian dishes like borsch (or borscht) with a contemporary twist, along with unique items such as fermented watermelon and golubtsi (cabbage rolls) made with courgette flowers.

“I want guests to experience the same excitement I feel when I’m at a food market abroad,” says Kovryzhenko, a prominent advocate of the slow food movement.

“I want them to discover something new—a new flavor. I want them to fall in love with Ukrainian cuisine,” he adds.

Kovryzhenko prioritizes using local ingredients over importing Ukrainian products, ensuring that diners can enjoy familiar flavors alongside the Ukrainian influences.

When Mriya opens, he will present Ukrainian dishes crafted with British ingredients, incorporating a subtle touch of the culinary influences he’s gathered from around the world.

Kovryzhenko notes that Ukrainian and British cuisines share many similarities, such as a preference for milder flavors without ‘aggressive spices,’ as well as a love for ingredients like pork, dill, and horseradish.

“The taste and flavors are very similar,” he explains. “However, the cooking techniques are quite different. So I think it will be a fascinating experience.”

The main menu will feature around 25 dishes, with a tasting menu also available, along with options for infused vodka or wine pairings.

Fermented fruits and vegetables, a cornerstone of Ukrainian cuisine, will play a prominent role on the menu. The restaurant even has its own dedicated fermentation room.

Shared vision

Kovryzhenko and Tsybytovska explain that they chose the name 'Mriya,' meaning ‘dream’ in Ukrainian, for a number of reasons.

Not only does the name symbolize their shared dream of elevating Ukrainian cuisine globally, it is also the name of the world’s largest aircraft, the Antonov An-225 Mriya, which was confirmed destroyed during the invasion.

Developed in the 1980s by the Antonov Design Bureau in the Soviet Union, the plane was a symbol of national pride for Ukrainians. Ukrainian engineer Petro Balabuyev led the design of the aircraft.

“The aircraft means so much to Ukrainians,” says Tsybytovska. “It’s a testament to the incredible talent of the Ukrainian people.”

Mriya also embodies the desire for peace and the hope for the restoration of normal life that Tsybytovska and many other Ukrainians share.

“Many Ukrainian families are now separated and scattered across the globe,” Tsybytovska reflects. “They dream of returning home, of sleeping under a peaceful sky, of rebuilding their homes, their country, and returning to their old lives.”

The couple envisions their restaurant as a gathering place for Ukrainians and other refugees in London, with plans to dedicate part of the downstairs area as a social space for mingling on Fridays and Saturdays.

In addition to its traditional Ukrainian fare, Mriya will feature art and furniture crafted by Ukrainian artists and designers.

“We’ll infuse the space with a distinctly Ukrainian atmosphere, bringing as much of our culture and energy into it as possible,” says Tsybytovska.

Both Kovryzhenko and Tsybytovska believe that Ukraine has the potential to become a leading food tourism destination and are thrilled to present their national cuisine in a culinary hub like London.

‘Culinary embassy’

Kovryzhenko plans to host Ukrainian cooking masterclasses at the restaurant, which is located just a short drive from the Embassy of Ukraine, in the near future.

“I want to make this place a gastronomic hub for Ukraine,” he says. “The food embassy of Ukraine in the UK.”

Since advertising for staff across social media platforms, they have been overwhelmed by applications from Ukrainian refugees in London eager for employment.

However, many applicants have limited English skills, and some are still waiting for their official documents, making the hiring process more complicated.

“It’s heartbreaking to talk to these people,” says Tsybytovska. “Some are teachers, doctors, and dentists, but they don’t speak English, and their qualifications aren’t recognized here in the UK.”

Despite the challenges, the couple is determined to employ displaced Ukrainians at the restaurant.

While Mriya offers a welcome distraction, the harsh reality of the situation in Ukraine is always on their minds.

“My parents and my brother are still in Ukraine,” says Tsybytovska. “I can’t relax anymore.”

If Mriya becomes profitable, a portion of the proceeds will be donated to charities assisting those impacted by the invasion of Ukraine.

Though their extended stay in London was unexpected, both feel incredibly fortunate to be where they are and have been deeply moved by the support and kindness they've received.

“I’m not sure there’s anywhere else in the world where we would have had the chance to accomplish so much,” says Tsybytovska.

While the couple has learned to avoid making long-term plans, they hope to return to Ukraine when it's safe and maybe even open another Mriya there.

For now, their focus is on the new restaurant, set to open on August 2, and they are excited to welcome their first guests.

“We want to create something truly unique,” says Tsybytovska. “It draws from our culture, but for the locals, it will definitely be something fresh and new.”

Mriya, 275 Old Brompton Road, London SW5 9JA

Image credit: Elena Bazu and Dmitriy Novikov