Ultraviolet in Shanghai – One table, 22 courses

Tucked away in a historic Shanghai neighborhood, Ultraviolet is considered one of the most cutting-edge dining experiences in the world.

With only 10 seats available per night, Ultraviolet presents a high-concept, Western-style menu within a futuristic private dining room. It's the brainchild of chef Paul Pairet, who won the 2016 'Chef's Choice Award' at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Guests are transported to the restaurant via a bus, where the immersive Ultraviolet experience starts even before entering. We won't spoil the surprise, but Pairet leaves no stone unturned in crafting a truly unique atmosphere.

The dining space is outfitted with cutting-edge technology, including video walls, surround sound, custom lighting, and scent dispensers, all designed to enhance the sensory experience.

It's easy to dismiss this as just food theater for Instagram influencers, but there's much more going on here.

Foie gras cigarette

After tasting a few of the courses with its creator during a recent episode of Dinogo’s “On China,” I found myself relishing a foie gras cigarette placed on an ashtray, surrounded by the intriguing blend of incense and rain scents, all while chuckling at a Super Mario Bros. reference.

Each menu is carefully planned and rehearsed by Pairet, along with his team of chefs, servers, and producers, who manage the synchronization of sounds, scents, lights, and visuals from a nearby control room.

The entire meal is orchestrated like a live TV show, with dishes served and scents released at just the right moments throughout a grand menu designed to stimulate all five senses.

'We’ll serve 22 courses, each framed by its own atmosphere created through projections, aromas (sometimes, but not always), and sounds,' Pairet explains.

Throughout the evening, the room shifts and evolves, taking me from a space adorned with vibrant neon graffiti to a subterranean vault, and eventually to a stark white hall, where a giant Union Jack is displayed while The Beatles play in the background.

'Many of the dishes are inspired by memories,' Pairet shares with me, presenting his unique take on fish and chips.

'It’s an exaggerated version of the most iconic dish, set in an equally exaggerated environment,' he says.

Why choose Shanghai?

My mini introduction to Ultraviolet concludes with the ultimate indulgence – dessert featuring homemade gummy bears, followed by a playful race with the staff around the dining room, all set to the tunes of a nostalgic Nintendo theme.

China: Eat like a local

“By the end of the meal, you need something that’s a real twist—something that surprises both your taste buds and your senses. This dish is crucial to me; it’s a tribute to what others may overlook.”

Pairet, originally from France, moved to Shanghai in 2005 and went on to open Ultraviolet in 2012.

“I picked Shanghai because the city already had the ingredients. Of course, Shanghai's energy and vibrancy played a big part too… it’s a place that allowed me to explore Western cuisine with a sense of curiosity,” explains Pairet.

“These ingredients are vital, particularly for those pushing the boundaries of culinary innovation,” he adds.

A foie gras cigarette may be avant-garde, but above all, it was a delight to the taste buds.

It was an experience that engaged all the senses, an immersive dining journey I will not forget anytime soon.