Uncover the rich history of Hong Kong through its cuisine

Hong Kong has a remarkable ability to reinvent itself overnight.

Shops come and go in the blink of an eye. Skyscrapers seem to rise from the ground instantly. The skyline is in constant flux.

Unlike ancient cities like London or Paris, Hong Kong doesn’t have as many physical relics that tell its story.

The true history of Hong Kong isn’t found in museums or buildings, but in its diverse and vibrant food culture.

'To truly experience Hong Kong as it was in the 1960s, food is your key to the past,' says Daisann McLane, founder of the food concierge and experiential tour company Little Adventures in Hong Kong.

The company’s food and cultural tours guide visitors into the heart of Cantonese life, exploring everything from local cafes and bakeries to bustling markets and traditional tea shops.

McLane shares with Dinogo Travel the stories behind some of her most memorable Hong Kong food experiences and the insights they offer into the city’s vibrant history.

Frozen in time

Before Hong Kong became a British colony, a manufacturing hub, or a global financial center, the region was predominantly home to fishermen.

In its early history, long before it was known as 'Hong Kong,' the area served as a key stopover port for European and Asian sailors – and even pirates – making it a popular resting point during long sea journeys.

The dried fish found in Hong Kong and its neighboring areas was a highly prized commodity.

In the days before refrigeration, haam yu was a vital kitchen ingredient, providing nourishment for sailors on extended trips and a reliable source of protein for rural Chinese communities.

'Whenever I spot the dried fish hanging by the roadside, the ones on red ribbons, I’m reminded that they were among the first products of Hong Kong Island and the Pearl River Delta,' says McLane.

'The age of sail couldn’t have existed without these dried foods to sustain people during their long voyages.'

This time-honored industry is still very much alive today, particularly in the dried food streets of Sai Ying Pun, where visitors can experience a taste of the past.

Where to find it: To explore Hong Kong’s dried seafood trade, head to the Tai O fishing village on Lantau Island, or simply wander the lanes of Sai Ying Pun, around Des Voeux Road West, Queen Street, and Centre Street, where the shops are packed with dried mushrooms, whole fish, sea cucumbers, goji berries, and more.

Café culture

By the 1950s, Hong Kong had undergone significant transformation.

With the British flag planted in 1841, colonial rule was firmly established.

Following World War II, waves of Chinese immigrants flooded into Hong Kong, escaping the communist takeover and the devastating famines caused by the Great Leap Forward in the 1950s and early 1960s.

As Hong Kong recovered from the war, it shifted toward manufacturing, setting the stage for a period of rapid growth and development.

Factories thrived, and the population grew, coinciding with the rise of globalization across the globe.

Alongside the arrival of factory-made staples like white bread, peanut butter, evaporated milk, and instant noodles, the factory boom gave rise to a distinctive culinary culture, symbolized by the cha chaan teng diner.

'The modern Hong Kong we know today traces its roots to the post-50s period,' says McLane. 'One of the most notable changes during that time was the surge in popularity of the Hong Kong coffee shop, the cha chaan teng. Although these diners existed as early as the 1920s, they truly flourished in post-war Hong Kong, reflecting that unique historical moment.'

'Factory life shaped the food culture, so quick meals became essential for workers who only had limited time for lunch,' says McLane.

Back in the day, a cha chaan teng could be found on nearly every corner, serving simple snacks like white bread sandwiches, pork chops, and the ever-popular milk tea.

Even today, the menus are filled with delightful fusion dishes like egg tarts, Hong Kong-style French toast, and yuanyang milk tea – a blend of bold black tea and coffee.

'You could sit in a cha chaan teng, enjoy peanut butter and condensed milk on toast with a milk tea, and take a journey through 75 years of Hong Kong's history,' says McLane.

Where to find it: For Kee Restaurant (200 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan; +852 2546 8947) is renowned for its iconic pork chop bun and old-school Hong Kong vibes. Hoi On Cafe (G/F, 17, Connaught Road, Sheung Wan; +852 2540 6340) is another classic – this 70-year-old cha chaan teng is famous for its handmade egg tarts and refreshing iced drinks.

A flavorful journey

Often overlooked yet crucial to the Hong Kong culinary scene is Soy Sauce Western cuisine – famously showcased in Wong Kar-wai’s iconic film, “In the Mood for Love.”

A more refined version of cha chaan teng dining, this fusion style of cuisine took off in the 1950s and 60s.

'The Hong Kong elite had traveled through Europe and the UK. They returned with a more sophisticated taste for dishes like steak, craving the flavors that reminded them of their travels,' says McLane.

In response to the demand, Cantonese chefs from prestigious hotels like the Mandarin Oriental and The Peninsula took their knowledge of Western cuisine and opened their own Soy Sauce Western restaurants – featuring tuxedo-clad waiters, tableside service, and pristine white tablecloths.

However, in adapting Western dishes to suit Cantonese tastes, the experience became a caricature of the original – much like the “Chinese” food you’d find in the United States.

'For a Westerner, it’s like visiting a restaurant stuck in 1955, where they still serve meat, potatoes, Cobb salads, soufflés – dishes that have long since disappeared from most menus,' says McLane.

'Culinarily, it’s a unique snapshot of Hong Kong people from that era and their aspirations – a desire for cosmopolitanism,' says McLane.

Soy Sauce Western restaurants may have their quirks, but they’re becoming increasingly rare – so make sure to visit one while you still can.

Where to find it: Tai Ping Koon Restaurant (21 Stanley St, Central; +852 2899 2780) offers the best Soy Sauce Western cuisine. Sammy’s Kitchen (204-206 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying Pun; +852 2548 8400) is a timeless classic in the city.

MORE: Discover Hong Kong’s top dim sum spots

Introducing Cantonese 2.0

No exploration of Hong Kong's culinary heritage would be complete without a taste of modern Cantonese cuisine.

In the last five years, the Cantonese food scene has become more vibrant and dynamic than ever before.

Enter 'Modern Cantonese' – a new wave of restaurants in Hong Kong that honor traditional recipes while revamping them with high-end ingredients, surprising flavor pairings, and creative presentations.

'You have this new generation of chefs who are pushing the boundaries of Cantonese cuisine, reimagining it – but without veering into fusion,' says McLane.

She traces the origins of this movement to Lau Kin Wai, the author, food historian, and restaurateur behind Kin’s Kitchen – a Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant – who helped pioneer the private kitchen scene in Hong Kong.

Innovative chefs like Lau Chun – the son of Kin Wai, who runs the kitchen – are crafting concise menus and reviving labor-intensive dishes that had once fallen out of favor.

'Given how deeply rooted Cantonese cooking is in tradition, this is nothing less than a revolution,' says McLane.

'I don’t think there’s ever been a time in Hong Kong’s history that’s been as creatively and intellectually radical – except perhaps during the rise of the modern cha chaan teng in the 1950s and 60s.'

Where to find it: Experience traditional Cantonese with a modern twist at the trailblazing Kin’s Kitchen (5/F, W Square, 314-324 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, +852 2571 0913).

Seventh Son (4-6/F, Kwan Chart Tower, 6 Tonnochy Rd, Wan Chai; +852 2892 2888) – a contemporary offshoot of the legendary Fook Lam Moon restaurant.

Tucked away in a chic basement, Mott 32 (Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd Central, Central; +852 2885 8688) combines contemporary art, top-tier cocktails, and Chinese cuisine crafted from premium ingredients.

For creative dishes in a vibrant setting, head to Ho Lee Fook (1 Elgin St, Central; +852 2810 0860).

The wait at Little Bao (66 Staunton St, Central; +852 2194 0202) is well worth it. This spot serves modern takes on fast food with a Cantonese twist.