Valencia's Hidden Past: Executions and Bullfights at Plaza del Mercado

It was a sweltering summer day in Valencia when Margarida Borrás met her fate on the gallows.

Despite the heat, crowds gathered in Plaza del Mercado to witness the transgender woman's execution. Public hangings were intended as deterrents, yet for the 15th-century populace, they were a source of entertainment, akin to a lively modern soccer match.

Today, it's hard to envision the square's grim past. Adorned with elegant houses and cheerful balconies, it buzzes with visitors snapping selfies and abuelas (grandmothers) bustling through with shopping carts, all heading to Mercado Central, a magnificent market and beloved tourist destination. While Plaza del Mercado appears joyful—and it is—the square's charming exterior conceals a dark history.

The bench under the palm tree, where tourists relax with bocadillos de jamón (ham sandwiches), is roughly where executions once occurred. In the Middle Ages, Valencia's market was a makeshift affair outside the old city walls, with traders setting up homemade stalls while shoppers navigated bickering animals and haggling farmers. As Valencia expanded, the market became integrated into the city, evolving into a community hub. The square hosted a variety of events, from festivals and funerals to protests and parades, including public hangings from the late 14th century onward.

The Heartbreaking Fate of a Trans Icon

The gallows were an ever-present part of daily life, situated right beside the main market in Valencia's busiest square, making them impossible to ignore. In 1601, more than one execution occurred each month, with bodies left hanging for days post-mortem. So, even if you took a detour to avoid the gruesome sight of a decomposing corpse one week, you might soon hear the trumpets announcing the next condemned, as the executioner rallied the crowd like a dark street performer.

Plaza del Mercado wasn’t the only site for public executions: caballeros, or noblemen, faced execution near the Catedral de Valencia, while heretics met their end in Paseo de la Pechina. In Plaza del Mercado, a mix of offenders—murderers, thieves, and those accused of sodomy—were executed. Although hanging was the most common method, there were also rare instances of decapitation, garroting, and burning at the stake.

Among the many executed in Plaza del Mercado, the story of Margarida Borrás stands out as particularly tragic in the 15th century. Born to a wealthy official from Mallorca, Borrás was a socialite who moved among the city's elite. Though born male and named Miquel, she lived openly as a woman, which ultimately led to her untimely demise.

Margarida was imprisoned and tortured after being discovered in women’s clothing, as recorded by Melcior Miralles, who was involved in her execution. She was hanged on July 28, 1460. Miralles notes that on the day of her execution, she was forced to wear only a man’s shirt to expose “les vergonyes,” or “the shame.” Several men were also tortured in connection with her case, though their identities and fates remain unknown. Speculation suggests they may have been Margarida's former partners.

Margarida has since become a symbol for trans rights. In 2017, a memorial plaque was erected in her honor and in memory of all those who have fought against transphobia. It can be found on the Mercado Central, on the wall facing La Lonja de la Seda. Former mayor Joan Ribó described the incident as one of the most “cruel and degrading” moments in the city's history, emphasizing that the plaque represents their commitment to making Valencia a “city free of hate.”

The final execution of the Spanish Inquisition

Another significant tale is that of the last death sanctioned by the Spanish Inquisition. This era was marked by the Catholic Church's relentless pursuit to eradicate heresy, often through brutal interrogations and public executions. Any individual could report suspected heresy, leading to sentences that typically ended with the accused being tortured, hanged, or burned alive.

Cayetano Ripoll was a teacher in Russafa. One day, an anonymous woman observed that he did not take his students to mass. She also noted that upon entering his class, he instructed them to say “praise God” rather than “hail Mary.” This prompted her to formally accuse Ripoll of heresy, leading to his arrest in 1824.

On July 31, 1826, Ripoll was executed by hanging in Plaza del Mercado, as noted by Rosario Cruz Garcia Peris in La Plaza del Mercado de València. Although the official sentence was to be burned at the stake, the authorities in the mid-19th century hesitated to enact such a brutal punishment. Instead, they painted images of demons and flames on the gallows to mimic the horrific method of execution.

A lion and a bull engage in a deadly struggle

Executions were not the only horrific events in Plaza del Mercado; fatal bullfights also took place, drawing frenzied crowds and spilling blood into the streets. The ornate wrought-iron balconies surrounding the square offered the best views, typically reserved for the elite and nobility. Streets were barricaded, and bulls were provoked into running by being jabbed with a long, spiked cane. The matador would initially attack from horseback before dismounting to deliver the final blow, as noted by Peris.

In 1459, King Juan II organized a grand two-day bullfighting festival in Plaza del Mercado, as recorded by Melcior Miralles. The highlight of the event was a death match between a lion and a bull on the second day. However, according to Miralles, the animals were reluctant to fight, prompting them to force a Jewish man into the cage to prod the lion into action. The diary leaves us to ponder the gruesome outcome of that encounter.

Discover Valencia's hidden stories and legends

These chilling scenes stand in stark contrast to the modern-day Plaza del Mercado, yet visitors can still explore the square's dark history. Numerous history tours are available throughout the city, including the nighttime walk organized by Visit Valencia, which shares spine-tingling tales and ancient enigmas. The tour titled Secrets and Legends under the Moon of València costs €15 and is held on Saturday evenings.

In another part of the city, history enthusiasts gather at dusk near a Gothic doorway in Plaza de la Virgen to begin the Valencia Macabra tour by Spain Free Tours. This journey winds through atmospheric streets leading to Plaza del Mercado, where the guide recounts the history of public executions and their lasting impact on the city today.

Discover one of the oldest and most impressive structures in Plaza del Mercado

Erected between 1482 and 1533, La Lonja de la Seda, the city’s former silk market, overlooks the square and has silently observed some of Valencia's darkest moments. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, this late-Gothic architectural gem represents Valencia’s power and prosperity during its Golden Age of trade. Admission is €2, and the audio guide (€2.50) is highly recommended for its engaging content, including secret bonus tracks for history enthusiasts.

Uncover more intriguing tales in enchanting bookstores

Looking to dive deeper into history? There’s no better spot for intriguing insights than a bookstore, and Valencia boasts some charming shops where you can lose yourself. Librería Anticuaria Rafael Solaz is tucked away on a narrow pedestrian street opposite Mercado Central. Inside, you'll discover towering wooden shelves filled with leather-bound treasures adorned with delicate gold lettering and vintage city guides. The collection is thoughtfully curated by Rafa, who can often be found at the back, sorting through old letters and photographs.

Further afield, Libreria Regolf focuses on topography, travel literature, and outdoor guides, with a fantastic selection of local history titles. A standout is 1001 Curiosidades de la Historia de Valencia by Salvador Raga Navarro, offering delightful and accessible tidbits that are both enjoyable and informative.