Warsaw vs Kraków: which Polish city will capture your heart?

When two Polish powerhouses vie for your affection, how can you possibly choose just one to explore? Both magnificent Warsaw and charming Kraków offer remarkable experiences, exceptional dining, rich culture, historical significance, and a vibrant nightlife.

Relax, take a seat, and let your worries fade away. Two passionate Dinogo Planet writers are ready to showcase the best their beloved cities have to offer in hopes of winning your heart. All that’s left for you to do is plan your trip.

Innovative Warsaw consistently inspires

Laura Studarus is a freelance writer who has visited Warsaw every summer for the past decade. Her ideal day involves savoring pierogi from a milk bar, capturing photos, and exploring as much of the city as possible.

Warsaw remains Poland's rebellious spirit, continually reshaping its identity while moving further away from its communist past. In contrast, while Kraków is undeniably stunning, it feels somewhat frozen in time. To truly experience modern Poland, a visit to the capital is essential.

The capital city excels at reinventing its history. Trendy spots like a pizza place, a bakery, and a jazz bar now occupy the former Polish Communist Party headquarters. Then there's Hotel Warszawa, which transformed from a WWII stronghold into a luxurious five-star hotel. For a unique dining experience, try Hala Gwardii, a former boxing arena now serving as a food hall. This art of repurposing has drawn comparisons to Berlin, although such similarities are just the beginning of the story.

You’ve likely encountered images of Warsaw’s vibrant Old Town. This neighborhood offers a captivating glimpse into the past, but remember, at just 71 years old, it’s a historical recreation. Nevertheless, the lack of age does not diminish its charm, especially from the viewing platform adjacent to the main square, where the area bathes in pink hues at sunset.

Enhance your visit by exploring the Palace of Culture and Science for a panoramic view of the city. This 'gift' from Stalin to the citizens of Warsaw stands in the city center and has evolved into a vibrant cultural and social hub featuring a movie theater, a bustling bar, and a viewing platform that offers a spectacular glimpse of the intricate tapestry of winding streets, brutalist structures, and modern skyscrapers.

While the city center boasts numerous attractions, the essence of modern Polish life thrives beyond the core. Venture south to Mokotów, a neighborhood rich in green spaces like the untamed Arkadia Park and the tranquil Morskie Oko. In recent times, Żoliborz has gained traction as more restaurants and shops leave the central hub. Don't miss the opportunity to cross the river to the Praga district, where creativity flourishes amidst large murals. Stroll along the yarn-wrapped Kawęczyńska street, discover communist-era signage at the Neon Muzeum, or visit Saska Kępa for boutiques and eateries, all while people-watching near the National Stadium.

The area along the Vistula River isn’t just a neighborhood; it transforms with the seasons. In winter, it offers a desolate, icy riverbank, but come summer, the space bursts into life with beaches near Poniatowski Bridge, Płyta Desantu, and Saska Kępa. With relaxed public drinking laws, the energy from pop-up river barge bars flows onto the concrete steps. Make sure to stop by the original watering hole, BarKa, for a wide selection of Polish beers and live performances by local bands.

Food plays a pivotal role in Polish culture, and many would argue it's the highlight of Warsaw. A decade ago, the city's most prominent restaurants primarily showcased traditional cuisine. You can still savor classic Polish dumplings at Pyzy Flaki Gorace, known for serving their delectable creations in jars, or enjoy innovative takes on pierogi at Syrena Irena. Throughout the city, you'll find milk bars—affordable cafeterias dishing out fresh meals quickly—and you really can't go wrong at any of them. Despite a strong meat-eating tradition, Warsaw is emerging as a vegetarian hotspot, boasting fine dining options like Peaches, burgers at Krowarzywa, and delightful bakeries such as Eter.

Why not? Reinvention is essential for Warsaw, making every visit more lively than the last.

Kraków, with its romantic charm, will forever hold my heart.

Anna Kaminski is a freelance travel writer who has explored the globe, sharing her adventures along the way. Having visited Kraków since childhood, she has no intention of stopping anytime soon.

My first trip to Kraków was at the age of fourteen during a school history excursion to Poland. I remember it clearly: observing bison and engaging in a snowball fight at Białowieża National Park; witnessing the haunting remains of Nazi concentration camps; savoring an obwarzanek (the Cracovian bagel) in Kraków’s grand Market Square; the snow sparkling on the city's majestic castle; and, for the first time, sneakily sharing vodka of dubious quality with friends; even attempting to taste the walls of the underground salt cathedral at the Wieliczka Salt Mine to confirm they were indeed made of salt (they were!); and the cramped ascent back to the surface in a tiny miners’ lift…

Among Poland's two major cities, Kraków captivated me. It felt like a true city, dominated by the stunning Wawel Castle, with its charming cobblestone streets in the Old Town lined with Renaissance, Baroque, and Gothic architecture. In contrast, Warsaw seemed forgettable to me, lacking a defined center and filled with unattractive Soviet-style buildings. Of course, that wasn’t Warsaw’s fault; our teachers explained it had suffered extensive bombing by the German Luftwaffe in WWII, while Kraków remained largely intact. I couldn't grasp why Warsaw was chosen as the postwar capital over its more regal counterpart, which had been the seat of Polish kings and queens for centuries.

As an adult, I find myself returning to Kraków time and again. The city is brimming with such a wide array of attractions that you could spend weeks here and still not experience everything it has to offer. There’s something for everyone—explore the intriguing medieval sewer system at the interactive Rynek Underground; learn to craft stained glass like Poland’s art nouveau masters, Wyspiański and Matejko, at the Stained Glass Museum; admire abstract works by Kandinsky and Malevich at the National Museum; visit Copernicus’ former quarters at the Collegium Maius, Poland’s oldest university; enjoy a cabaret show at the Piwnica Pod Baranami cellar bar, or dine while listening to klezmer music at Klezmer-Hois; or indulge in nostalgia at the Museum of Municipal Engineering with its vintage trams and 1950s motorcycles. Despite my many visits, there are always new marvels to uncover.

There’s nothing quite like wandering through the diverse neighborhood streets. Experience the grand boulevards and brutalist designs of Nowa Huta, a 1950s socialist workers’ paradise featuring the stunning Arka Pana church, the art nouveau homes of the Piasek and Nowy Świat areas, and the quirky sites of Podgórze, from the ancient Krakus Mound to the overgrown, deserted Liban Quarry, which once served as a labor camp during WWII.

The city is filled with traces of Poland’s once-thriving Jewish community: Schindler’s Factory, the Pharmacy Under the Eagle, and the cluster of synagogues in Kazimierz (many now museums). It often serves as a starting point for visits to Auschwitz, the infamous Nazi death camp. My Jewish ancestors lived in Poland for centuries, so this history resonates deeply with me, and I believe a visit to Auschwitz is crucial for understanding the depths of human darkness.

On a brighter note, Kraków is brimming with surprises and stands out as an unexpectedly delightful summer getaway. While you might not think of it as a typical sun-and-sand spot, the flooded, tree-lined Zakrzówek Quarry has been transformed into a cool retreat featuring five lifeguard-supervised swimming pools linked by floating wooden walkways. Alternatively, I enjoy heading to Bagry Lagoon or the Przystań Brzegi reservoir in eastern Kraków for swimming, paddleboarding, or catching a volleyball game, or taking a bus to Wolski Forest for hiking in this expansive protected area before returning for pizza and beer at Kazimierz’s Weźże Krafta.

And let’s talk about the food! As an Eastern European, Polish comfort food—pierogi (dumplings), kielbasa (Polish sausage), zurek (traditional sour rye soup)—fills me with joy. In Kraków, I’ve found my new favorite eateries: Miła Bar Mleczny, an old-school canteen reminiscent of the 1980s, where you can indulge in pierogi for a song; Goose Restaurant for gourmet goose-filled dumplings; and the Unitarg Hala Targowa Sausage Stand for late-night sausages grilled over an open flame by two guys who’ve been at it since 1991.

When I start to feel worn out after a late night, I swing by Somnium for excellent coffee and some people-watching in Kazimierz, then savor an incredible maczanka (Cracovian pulled-pork sandwich) from the Andrus Food Truck at Skwer Judah food truck park. I wrap up the evening with innovative Polish dishes like pearl barley kashotto with white asparagus at Pierwszy Stopień, and finish the night with the best Thai street food outside of Bangkok at Molam Thai. Sorry, Warsaw, but you just can’t measure up to Kraków!