Weekend Getaway: A budget-friendly trip to Bordeaux

In our A Total Trip series, writers share their expenses from recent escapes. This time, Laura Motta, our Senior Director of Publishing based in New York, reveals how she managed a quick and affordable weekend in Bordeaux, France—complete with foie gras and white wine.

When I decided to plan a spontaneous weekend in Bordeaux, I did what I usually do: I hardly planned anything at all. This trip was an unexpected addition to a business trip in Dublin. My aim was to make the most of a paid transatlantic flight while enjoying some relaxation and hopefully warmer weather than the often dreary climate of Ireland’s capital. So, off I went to France.

The good news: Not having a detailed itinerary didn't ruin the trip. The downside: I missed out on a lot, especially regarding dining. Bordeaux boasts 14 Michelin-star restaurants—a daunting choice for any eager traveler with limited time and little preparation. Reservations are essential, and it’s wise to plan ahead. Ignoring this well-known advice, I opted for improvisation at mealtime, which saved me quite a bit of money. Below, I’ve outlined my experience and the costs involved.

Expenditures before and after the trip:

I flew from Dublin to Bordeaux on an Aer Lingus flight that was a reasonable €150 for a round trip. The less favorable expense? My checked luggage. That added an extra €40 each way (ouch!). I also took a taxi to and from my hotel, costing €32 each way.

I invested €14.20 in a 7-day unlimited tram ticket for Bordeaux’s transit system. The trams are modern and user-friendly, but if you’re staying in the historic district and enjoy walking, they may not be essential. The city is compact, and most attractions are easily accessible on foot.

For accommodation, I selected Mama Shelter, a quirky hotel chain known for its imaginative and extravagant common areas, paired with minimalist, utilitarian rooms. This location features a rooftop bar that ranks among Bordeaux’s top nightlife spots, with lobby decor that includes pool floats, a foosball table, a giant rooster portrait, and vibrant neon signs. I paid €169 per night for a double room with a queen bed.

Daily expenses:

Friday:

Coffee: After an early flight from Dublin, my first necessity, even before breakfast, was caffeine. I dropped my bags at Mama Shelter and strolled through Bordeaux’s UNESCO World Heritage old town, known as the Port of the Moon for its curve along the Garonne. I made a stop at L’Alchimiste, a charming coffee shop with light wood decor and walls adorned with Chemex coffee makers and succulents. A latte set me back around €4.

Getting oriented: The grand Gothic cathedral dedicated to Saint Andrew serves as the symbolic and geographic heart of Bordeaux’s old city. It’s a great starting point for sightseeing. This cathedral, along with two others in Bordeaux, is recognized by UNESCO as part of the Way of St. James – the Camino de Santiago – in France. Look for the gold, seashell-shaped markers that indicate the route throughout the old city, still followed by many pilgrims today. Entry to the cathedral is free.

Dinner: After wandering around, I found myself in that awkward time between lunch and dinner when food is hard to come by. I stopped at Horace, where only sweets and drinks were available. I chose a slice of strawberry-lavender cheesecake and a beer for €11 to tide me over. A few hours later, still hungry, I opted for dinner at a wine bar that didn’t require a reservation. Sitting at the sleek counter at Vins Urbain, I ordered tinned fish, olive tapenade, and a glass of white merlot for a reasonable €25.50. The bartender generously topped off my wine for free since I finished it before my food arrived. I wrapped up the evening in the lovely square outside Saint-Pierre church, lined with cafes. (Note: Vins Urbain has since closed, but you can expect similar prices at other wine bars in the area.)

Total: €40.50

If you have extra time, check out these wonderful day trips from Bordeaux.

Saturday:

Coffee: I began my day in France as usual, with a coffee. I found a comfy, pillow-strewn seat at Café Piha and ordered a latte in my somewhat hesitant French for €4.

Wine: No trip to Bordeaux is complete without a visit to Cité du Vin. This expansive museum and educational center, designed to resemble a wine decanter in its modern glass architecture, was at the top of my sightseeing list. It features numerous interactive exhibits that explore everything from terroir to the winemaking process and the history of wine consumption. With digital displays, hands-on activities, and engaging storytelling, it offers an enjoyable morning—or an entire day for wine enthusiasts. The €22 ticket includes a complimentary glass of wine at the rooftop bar.

Lunch: Right across from Cité du Vin lies the fantastic Les Halles de Bacalan, a vibrant modern food hall where you can indulge in the staples of Bordelaise cuisine—an endless selection of local wines by the glass, abundant baskets of oysters, and both fried and grilled seafood alongside French cheeses from every region. I finally chose a half-dozen oysters from Huitrier de Baca for €10, a glass of wine at La Cave des Halles for €4.50, and a generous slab of foie gras that was clearly meant for sharing at €6.

History: After lunch, I explored the remarkable Musee Aquitaine, which chronicles Bordeaux and its surroundings, dating back to its pre-Roman origins. Admission is €6. Following this, I visited the Basilica of Saint Severus (known as Seurin in French) for a (free) tour. This is yet another UNESCO World Heritage site in Bordeaux and serves as an important pilgrimage church on the Way of St. James.

Dinner: My second wine bar experience was at Les Doux Secrets d’Hélène, where I met Hélène herself and her two adorable puppies, who made a charming tableside visit during my meal. I enjoyed two glasses of white wine, a comforting vegetable consomme, a stuffed pasta appetizer, and a small cheese platter for €32.

Total: €84.50

Stay informed with this guide on navigating Bordeaux.

Sunday:

Exploring and brunch: My final day of sightseeing turned into a leisurely stroll—perfect for this compact city. I admired the impressive Place de la Bourse, a true symbol of the wealth amassed through international trade, and visited the memorial dedicated to the Girondins, a local faction from the French Revolution. Other highlights included the charming Galerie Bordelaise before heading toward Place Meynard and its quaint neighborhood. Here, you’ll find another UNESCO-listed cathedral and the bustling Marche des Capucins, which feels more local and expansive compared to Les Halles de Bacalan. I snagged a barstool at La Poissonnerie and ordered 6 oysters for €10, which came with a half-glass of white wine and fresh bread—hard to beat!

Sweet snack: Before returning to my hotel and catching my airport ride, I made sure to visit Cassonade, a delightful pastry shop known for its cannelés, iconic Bordeaux treats with a beautifully caramelized exterior and a soft interior. You can choose between vanilla and rum flavors for a sweet souvenir. Or why not try both? (Two for €4.)

Total: €14

Discover more about Bordeaux:

• Discover the neighborhoods of Bordeaux

• Navigating Bordeaux

• 6 incredible day trips from Bordeaux