Which city in the U.S. takes the crown for the best pizza? The authors of ‘Modernist Pizza’ have a surprising answer.

Sorry, New York – your reign is over. And Chicago, your deep dish just lost its edge.

The title of America’s best pizza city goes to Portland, Oregon, a West Coast innovator rather than the usual pizza powerhouses.

This judgment comes from Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya, the creators of the upcoming ‘Modernist Pizza’ encyclopedia, set for release in October.

Spanning three volumes and nearly 1,700 pages, this work dives into pizza history, offers over 1,000 recipes, explores pizza-making techniques, tools, and even where to find the best pies, all illustrated with stunning photos.

Nathan Myhrvold, former Chief Technology Officer at Microsoft from 1996 to 2000, left the tech world to follow his passions. In a video interview with Dinogo Travel, he shared that this pizza project took nearly four years to complete.

He explained that their pizza exploration, which included visits to 250 pizzerias, was completed just before the COVID-19 pandemic brought everything to a halt.

What propelled Portland to the top of the pizza rankings?

Myhrvold admitted that when they first started their pizza exploration, he never expected Portland to emerge as the top contender.

We knew Portland had experienced a foodie revival in the past two decades, but I didn’t expect its pizza scene to rival that of other renowned pizza cities.

The Modernist Pizza team traveled to both major cities and smaller towns across the U.S., including those with long-standing reputations as pizza destinations, to compare them. These cities included:

Chicago, Detroit, Los Angeles, New York/New Jersey/Connecticut Tri-State area, Old Forge (PA), Philadelphia, Phoenix, Quad Cities (IA/IL), San Francisco, Seattle, and St. Louis.

What made Portland stand out? According to Myhrvold, it was a combination of innovation and a passionate commitment to delivering the best pizza.

Myhrvold credits two artisan pizzerias – Apizza Scholls and Ken’s Artisan Pizza – for sparking Portland’s high-quality pizza movement. 'Having a great role model helps, unlike other places where the pizza is just awful.'

He initially thought Scholls and Ken’s would be the only standouts in Portland, but he quickly realized the city boasts a thriving, passionate pizza community.

According to Myhrvold, Portland doesn’t have a single defining pizza style, but the common threads are creativity, high-quality ingredients, and a dedication to doing things right.

'In every great food scene, there’s always someone obsessed with perfecting their craft,' he said. 'That’s how you get the best food.'

Portland’s pizza scene is full of local favorites, with many more to explore and enjoy.

These pizza joints earned special recognition in ‘Modernist Pizza.’ Whether you’re looking to dine in, take out, or have it delivered, make sure to check their menus and operating hours: – Lovely’s Fifty Fifty: Myhrvold considers it one of the top two pizza spots in the country, alongside Razza in Jersey City, NJ. They also serve up exceptional ice cream. Located at 4039 N. Mississippi Ave., Portland, OR 97217.

Other places that received special mentions, in alphabetical order:

– Apizza Scholls: Located at 4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd., Portland, OR 97215.

– Handsome Pizza: Located at 1603 NE Killingsworth St., Portland, OR 97211.

– Ken’s Artisan Pizza: Find it at 304 SE 28th Ave., Portland, OR 97214.

– Nostrana: Located at 1401 SE Morrison St. Ste. 101, Portland, OR 97214.

– Red Sauce Pizza: Situated at 4641 NE Fremont St, Portland, OR 97213.

– Scottie’s Pizza Parlor: Head over to 2128 SE Division St., Portland, OR 97202.

– Sizzle Pie: Visit 926 W Burnside St, Portland, OR 97205, and other locations.

What went wrong with New York’s pizza scene?

This declaration from Portland is bound to spark strong reactions, particularly from New York City.

Myhrvold has some harsh critiques of the current pizza landscape, particularly in Manhattan, where dollar-a-slice joints and budget pizzerias dominate. And no, that’s not a compliment.

In his view, New York City is stuck in tradition, leaning too heavily on its reputation instead of focusing on making the best pizzas possible in today’s world.

'Most of the classic New York spots aren’t that impressive,' Myhrvold noted. 'This is a common finding globally: famous old pizzerias often fail to live up to their hype. So when a place in New York tells you, 'We’ve been doing this for 50 years' – that’s a red flag!'

If you’re looking for great pizza in New York, Myhrvold says you're more likely to find it in the boroughs or the suburbs than in Manhattan.

'I prefer Razza to most pizzerias in New York City, especially in Manhattan,' Myhrvold remarked. 'That’s a statement that will surprise a lot of New Yorkers.'

Pizza Across the Globe

Pizza isn’t just an Italian creation or an American craze. It’s beloved worldwide, with each culture adding its own unique spin.

That’s not to say Italy doesn’t still offer some outstanding pizza.

'In Italy, you can find some truly incredible pizzas. I’ve had unforgettable ones in Naples and in a small town just outside called Caiazzo.'

Two cities that really impressed Myhrvold with their pizza were São Paulo, Brazil, and Buenos Aires, Argentina, both of which saw large waves of Italian immigration in the 19th century, particularly from Naples.

Myhrvold isn’t a fan of creativity for creativity’s sake when it comes to pizza.

He and his team visited Seoul and Tokyo, where they found some great pizzas, but also encountered many pies with toppings that didn’t sit well with his tastes. 'Squid tentacles and sweet potato cubes on pizza? That’s just a strange mix.'

Why dedicate three volumes to pizza, specifically?

'Pizza is arguably the most important dish in the world,' Myhrvold said. 'It’s the world’s most significant imported cuisine.'

He was also captivated by pizza’s incredible versatility and the heated debates surrounding it.

'There are endless debates about what makes a great pizza. … A steak is more or less the same everywhere you go, but pizza? The variations are endless, and it sparks fierce arguments around the globe.'

How did the authors of 'Modernist Pizza' end up with nearly 1,700 pages on the subject? 'We just had to stop somewhere.'

He admitted he’s not great at estimating the size of his books. 'I always think they’ll be smaller than they actually are.'

'Modernist Pizza' is for those who are 'passionate and curious about food.'

He pointed out that you don’t need to be a seasoned chef to enjoy the volumes. 'But if you’re someone who cooks a lot without much curiosity and just wants to follow a recipe step by step, there are plenty of shorter books for that.'

As for the next project from the Modernist team, get ready for a deep dive into pastries and desserts.