Whisky, hiking, and breathtaking views: The definitive Scottish road trip

Editor's note: As travel resumes after COVID-19 shutdowns, TPG recommends consulting your doctor, adhering to health guidelines, and checking local travel restrictions before planning your next adventure. We’re here to assist you in preparing, whether it’s for next month or next year.

Scotland is a country where you can experience varying climates within just a short drive. Its landscapes showcase breathtaking natural beauty, expansive open areas, charming fishing villages, and a touch of old-world allure, complemented by its famously warm-hearted locals.

Though I had visited Edinburgh several times, I longed to explore other regions and delve deeper into the heart of the country. Given Scotland's manageable size—about one-third that of the UK with over 6,000 miles of coastline and well-maintained roads, even in rural areas—it's a prime destination for road trips.

In 2015, the Scottish tourism board introduced the North Coast 500 (NC500), a circular route through the Highlands on the northern peninsula. Two years later, the northeastern peninsula (part Lowlands, part Highlands) unveiled its own journey with the Northeast 250 (NE250), which encircles Speyside, the Cairngorms, Royal Deeside, Aberdeen, the east coast, and the Moray Coast.

As coronavirus travel advisories begin to ease, leisure travel planning may shift in focus—road trips and leisurely travel are likely to be popular, as travelers' safety and health can be more easily managed in personal or rented vehicles. Additionally, it's still straightforward to earn or redeem points and miles through credit card transactions for rentals, fuel purchases, and hotel bookings along the way.

For my first road trip, I selected the northeast region, drawing inspiration from the NE250 and adjusting the route to include destinations from my bucket list, such as St Andrews and Scotland's oldest distillery.

St Andrews

From Edinburgh, it's a straightforward drive of one hour and 20 minutes north on the A92 to reach St Andrews.

Begin your day by exploring the ruins of St Andrews Cathedral. It's free and truly breathtaking. Constructed in 1158, it served as the hub of the Medieval Catholic Church in Scotland. A short walk away, for $11, you can visit the remnants of St Andrews Castle, built less than 50 years later, which housed James I, II, and III of Scotland and was infamous as a prison.

As cliché as it sounds, stopping by the café where Kate Middleton and Prince William are said to have met is a must. Northpoint Cafe offers local delights like hearty Scottish breakfasts, tasty toasties, and a variety of fresh baked goods, all for under $15.

After satisfying your appetite, stroll through the charming cobblestone alleys, shop-lined streets, and the beautiful St Andrews University. Near the ruins, a coastal path provides stunning views of the horizon as well.

Where to stay: The Saint Bar & Kitchen features simple, comfortable rooms starting at around $185 per night. The cozy gastropub serves locally sourced Scottish dishes at fair prices, with most main courses priced around $25.

The Moray Coast

Drive for two and a half hours up the A90, and you'll arrive at the northern coast of the peninsula, the Moray Coast, which extends from the city of Inverness to Fraserburgh at the northeastern tip. There’s an official coastal path, along with several unofficial trails that meander along the coast—whether sandy beaches or rocky outcrops (just remember to check tide times for safety). Be sure to stop and greet the sheep you encounter, as they can be quite friendly and enjoy a good ear scratch.

Many villages in this area are perched on the seaside cliffs, creating a picturesque tiered landscape. Gardenstown is one such village, where the only restaurant, the Gardenstown Pub, is a great spot to mingle with locals and enjoy fresh fish for under $10.

Where to stay: For a serene coastal getaway, consider the Mill of Nethermill. This charming property, restored by an American expat couple, features self-catering cottages situated on a protected cove where you might spot dolphins. Rates start at around $123 per night (with a two-night minimum), and guests can explore the vegetable garden or check out the on-site pottery barn. Pets and bonfires are welcome, and you can even camp on the beach for a lower fee.

If you prefer a full-service hotel, Cullen Bay Hotel offers accommodations starting at about $120 per night, located at the edge of town where the famous Scottish dish, Cullen Skink (a hearty haddock, onion, and potato soup), originated. It's far tastier than it sounds.

Speyside and The Malt Whisky Trail

From the coast, head inland via the A95 to reach Craigellachie. This quaint town lies at the heart of Speyside, where the Malt Whisky Trail meanders through the region, featuring nine distilleries to explore (and sample, just remember to have a designated driver!). This area boasts the highest concentration of whisky distilleries in the world, with Strathisla being the oldest operational one.

Strathisla Distillery, owned by the Chivas Brothers since 1786—marking their first acquisition—has utilized the same water source from Broomhill Spring on the property since its inception and produces nearly 650,000 gallons of Scotch whisky each year. Take the traditional tour for $18 per person, but I recommend the Blending Experience for $74, where you can dive deep into the distillery's operations, blend your own whisky, and take your creation home.

Another fascinating stop, if you're in the mood after some tastings, is the Speyside Cooperage. For just $4, you can visit the hub of cask production and discover how they manufacture and repair over 100,000 casks annually.

Where to stay: Consider the Craigellachie Hotel (approximately $200 per night), a charming former train station that embodies coziness. Each room comes with complimentary whisky, and the hotel features a renowned whisky snug along with a modern gastropub, The Copper Dog, located downstairs. This hotel is perfectly positioned for easy access to various distilleries over a few days. It's situated by the River Spey, providing fresh fish for the kitchen’s delightful Scottish salmon dishes.

If you're in the mood for Thai cuisine—yes, Thai food is quite popular in pubs throughout Great Britain—a short stroll down the old train line leads you to the Highlander Inn (rooms from $136 per night). The owner takes pride in sourcing whisky from around the globe for his charming pub, making it an excellent spot to explore unique blends.

Cairngorms National Park

Within an hour's drive south on the A939, you'll arrive at the edge of Cairngorms National Park. Scotland boasts vast expanses of dark skies, some of the largest in Europe, and Cairngorms earned the esteemed title of International Dark Sky Park in 2018. This designation offers a perfect gateway to the stars, and during certain times of the year, you might catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights from the viewing spots at Tomintoul and Glenlivet. It is now Scotland's first Highlands Dark Sky Park.

Where to stay: After a night of stargazing, retreat to the opulent Fife Arms in Braemar (starting around $270 per night), the closest you can get to the heart of the park, and indulge in a taste of Scottish luxury.

Just 45 minutes to the east, on the outskirts of the park in Aboyne, The Boat Inn features a charming gastropub and a beer garden with views of the River Dee, alongside clean, comfortable rooms starting at around $107 per night.

Bottom line

Exploring a country by car can be one of the most relaxing and flexible ways to travel. You have the freedom to choose when to drive and which routes to take, and if you stumble upon a place you love, you can easily extend your stay. Scotland is particularly enjoyable for driving, with its well-maintained roads, manageable size, and friendly locals, making getting lost a delightful possibility.