Why a leisurely bus trip is the ideal way to explore the coast from Lisbon to Porto

Our slow travel series highlights how to embark on more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike, offering tips on reaching your no-fly destination and discovering sights along the way. We invited Austin Bush to navigate the less-traveled path between Lisbon and Porto.

Typically, the journey between Portugal's two largest cities can be completed by bus or train in about four hours. However, these routes primarily follow the inland path and overlook the essential Portuguese landscape: the coastline.

Given that the Atlantic Ocean is almost ingrained in the Portuguese identity, I aimed to travel between these cities in a way that showcased this vital element. Thus, I chose a route from Lisbon to Porto that featured overnight stays in three charming coastal towns. I was pleasantly surprised to discover three distinct versions of Portugal's stunning, varied coastline during my travels.

Journey from Lisbon to Peniche

My adventure begins rather modestly at the Sete Rios bus station, located just north of central Lisbon. I’ve secured a seat with Rede Expressos, a private bus service, for the hour-and-a-half trip to Peniche. The route is primarily inland, briefly passing through Lisbon’s wine region. My first glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean appears after climbing a hill in Lourinhã, just south of my destination.

Situated on a rocky peninsula overlooking the Atlantic, Peniche boasts a charming and dense historical center, anchored by the formidable Fortaleza de Peniche. Although it was closed for renovations during my visit, this fortress, dating back to the 16th century, served as a prison for political dissidents during Portugal’s lengthy dictatorship in the 20th century. Once renovations are complete, it will house a museum dedicated to the Portuguese resistance against fascism.

Eager to explore the coast, I drop off my bags at the hotel and purchase a ticket for a day trip to the Berlenga Islands. Located six miles offshore from Peniche, this small archipelago has drawn visitors since Phoenician times. Various vendors at Peniche’s pier sell tickets for both fast and slow boats, with the journey taking at least 45 minutes. Visitors are directed to Berlenga Grande, a dry and rocky island featuring a small beach and a variety of birds, along with some easy, clear hiking trails. The walk to the 16th-century fortress, framed by cliffs and azure waters, is a must-do – it’s one of the most picturesque swimming spots I’ve ever encountered. While there’s an overpriced restaurant and snack bar at the pier, along with a bar at the fortress, it’s wiser to visit Peniche’s excellent fresh market, prepare a picnic, and enjoy it on the island.

If you’re short on time for the islands, consider a quick taxi ride to Cruz dos Remédios for a stunning view of Peniche’s rugged coastline. At the peninsula's western tip, this area features a dramatic shoreline of massive rocks, cliffs, and crashing sea foam. From here, you can walk back to town along a path that follows the southern coast, passing by mainland Europe’s westernmost chapel, a lighthouse, rocky fishing spots, viewpoints, and even a semi-urban beach.

Unsurprisingly, Peniche is renowned for its fresh seafood, and both local visitors and food critics rave about Tasca do Joel. Choose your fish from the counter and be sure to try the encharcada, a traditional dessert known for its generous sprinkle of cinnamon.

Journey from Peniche to Nazaré

The following afternoon, I catch another Rede Expressos bus for the hour-long trip inland to Nazaré. While Peniche feels dense and rocky, Nazaré offers a sense of openness with its expansive, postcard-perfect sandy beach framed by steep cliffs. With its crowds, hotels, and ice cream shops, Nazaré has a vibe reminiscent of Coney Island, though I doubt Brooklyn has its share of tile-fronted churches and aging mansions.

Nazaré’s mile-long beach serves as its centerpiece, attracting tens of thousands of visitors each summer. At the midpoint of the beach, near colorful (now beached) fishing boats, you'll find several seasoned vendors sun-drying and preparing various fish and seafood on racks, selling them from stalls along the boardwalk. If you head north, especially in summer, you’ll encounter a bustling village of barracas, traditional wooden and cotton sunbathing tents. Renting one for the day costs €10, making it a great option if, like me, you have a long wait between checking out of your hotel and catching your bus.

Overlooking Nazaré is the cliff-top area known as Sítio. Accessible by tram, it offers stunning views of the town along with several historic buildings, including a theater over a century old. Descend the western path to reach the farol, a lighthouse set on cliffs above a tumultuous sea. This spot is also where those impressive surfing videos you’ve probably seen were filmed, thanks to an underwater canyon just west of Nazaré that produces huge waves.

Nazaré gained its surfing fame from American Garett McNamara, who rode a 78ft wave in 2011, then the largest ever surfed. Today, the lighthouse serves as a big-wave surfing museum, showcasing the boards of many surfing legends. When returning to Nazaré from Sítio, consider the footpath, where you'll find a popular swing for Instagram photos overlooking the city.

Once back at sea level, avoid the tourist traps and opt for a meal at Cervejaria Galé. This lively, laid-back, and affordable spot embodies a traditional Portuguese seafood beer hall—ideal for pairing gourmet choices like gooseneck barnacles or spider crab with small, budget-friendly beers.

Traveling from Nazaré to Aveiro

For my next journey to Aveiro, I found that FlixBus provided a more convenient departure time and a better fare. The nearly two-hour ride is entirely inland and quite unremarkable, making it perfect for a nap or listening to a podcast.

My destination lies at the edge of a sprawling lagoon. In the 19th century, canals were excavated to link this water body with the city, leading to Aveiro's nickname as the “Venice of Portugal.” Once used for transporting seaweed, the colorful moliceiros now ferry tourists through these canals; a 45-minute ride costs around €13 and offers a fun, albeit touristy, introduction to the area.

If you're not keen on the tourist route, consider strolling or renting one of Aveiro’s BUGA bikes to reach Marinha da Troncalhada, located at the lagoon’s edge, where the area’s closest salt flats are found. Historically significant for salt production in Europe, Aveiro still produces salt by hand through a series of elevated flats. If you visit in the morning, you might catch locals at work, skillfully redistributing salt with long rakes.

Back in the city, Aveiro is celebrated for its stunning art nouveau architecture. Dive deeper into this theme at the Museu Arte Nova, or set up an architecture-focused walking tour. Among locals, the city is famed for oves moles (literally “soft eggs”), a delightful dessert made from sweetened egg yolks encased in a pliable dough “shell.” Peixinho is reputed to be the oldest establishment in town crafting these treats.

Switch to savory delights with a meal at O Augusto. Established in 1963 and seemingly untouched by time in its decor, this cozy and inviting restaurant is renowned for its petiscos, traditional Portuguese snacks. Enjoy small plates like boiled shrimp, braised gizzards, or a miniature steak sandwich, often paired with a drink.

Aveiro to Porto

The journey from Aveiro to Porto is just under 50 miles (75km), easily traversable by bus or train. I opted for the bus, which takes an inland route, while the train offers fleeting views of the coastline near Espinho. Like Lisbon, Porto is situated on a river just a few miles from its meeting point with the ocean.

Another reminder that in Portugal, the ocean is always close by.