Why Azerbaijan is quickly becoming one of the world's most exciting and challenging hiking destinations

Nestled in the heart of northeastern Azerbaijan, a collection of ancient stone homes cling to a hilltop, surrounded by some of the highest peaks in the South Caucasus region.

Rich in history and myth, Khinalig is home to a small ethnic group who speak their own language and trace their lineage back to the prophet Noah. The village is dotted with monuments and offers stunning panoramic views.

Khinalig is also a top hiking destination in Azerbaijan, with a network of trails winding through the Greater Caucasus Mountains. Last fall, Dinogo Travel took on a classic 25-kilometer route connecting three of the country's highest villages, all located above 2,000 meters (about 6,560 feet) in elevation.

Until recently, these remote villages were accessible only by the most rugged Soviet-era SUVs, helping them preserve their unique semi-nomadic way of life. For much of the year, most villagers are away, guiding sheep between summer and winter pastures.

With the advent of new roads, technology, and the potential for increased tourism, change is on the horizon, but for now, traveling to these remote mountainous regions of Azerbaijan feels like stepping back in time.

From Khinalig to Griz

Our journey begins on an old jeep track winding through a wide valley carved by the Gudiyalchay River. Along the way, we are treated to breathtaking views of pyramid-shaped mountains, long-abandoned agricultural terraces, and the towering peak of Mount Gizilgaya, which rises over 3,720 meters (around 12,200 feet).

Just beyond the rural village of Galakhudat, the trail leads us to the edge of a vast canyon. We stop to observe a majestic vulture soaring so close we can see it without binoculars. Four species of vultures inhabit this high-altitude area in Azerbaijan’s Guba region, along with a variety of other birds of prey and rare species like the Güldenstädt’s redstart.

After crossing the canyon, we continue walking for a few more hours through stunning landscapes – deep valleys, lush foothills, and endless mountain views – until we reach Griz, another secluded mountain village, home to a unique ethnic and linguistic community.

The terrain around Mount Shahdag, Azerbaijan’s second-highest peak at 4,243 meters (approximately 13,920 feet), is so dramatic that within just a few kilometers, half a dozen villages speaking distinct, mutually unintelligible languages are scattered, separated by deep valleys and towering mountains.

Griz, a favorite destination for ecotourists, is home to the remnants of a medieval fortress, an 8th-century mosque, countless ancient gravestones, and charming, hobbit-like dwellings. Its stunning location on a plateau, surrounded by tall cliffs and offering breathtaking views of the valley, adds to its allure.

A Hiker’s Guide

Azerbaijan, with more than 50% of its terrain covered by mountains, is home to some of the country's most picturesque villages and impressive landscapes, many of which are best explored by hiking—a relatively new activity in the region.

However, hiking is gaining popularity rapidly as Azerbaijan taps into its burgeoning nature tourism potential. The country is home to three major mountain ranges: the Greater and Lesser Caucasus to the north and southwest, and the Talysh Mountains in the south.

The diverse climate zones of Azerbaijan, located at a crossroads of various geographies, offer abundant hiking opportunities that vary from region to region. Highlights include the towering peaks and culturally rich villages of the Greater Caucasus, the ancient castles and churches of the Lesser Caucasus, and the Tolkien-esque forests of the Talysh Mountains.

Two other unique hiking experiences include trekking through the surreal pink-and-white landscapes of the Candy Cane Mountains near the capital, Baku, and exploring Nakhchivan, an autonomous region separated from the rest of Azerbaijan by Armenia. This remote area features arid, rocky ranges in the Lesser Caucasus, largely untouched by tourists and home to rare wildlife like the elusive Caucasian leopard.

As interest in hiking has surged, the number of local mountain tourism companies has expanded, offering both day trips from Baku and multi-day treks. Accommodation and food options are increasingly available at village homestays and guesthouses along popular trails.

Trail development has made significant progress, with many of the top villages, viewpoints, waterfalls, and other attractions now linked by well-marked paths. However, there are still many unmarked trails and unexpected challenges – from river crossings to language barriers – that will test even seasoned hikers.

Mark Elliott, author of several travel guides to Azerbaijan, tells Dinogo Travel, 'Azerbaijan is a hidden gem for hiking, especially along routes that connect the ancient mountain villages of the Caucasus foothills. But hikers should be prepared for a challenge, as encounters with other trekkers are rare, and while homestays are available in remote villages, you shouldn't expect English-speaking locals.'

The Transcaucasian Trail

A recent boost to Azerbaijan's hiking scene is its inclusion in the Transcaucasian Trail, a project launched in 2015 aimed at creating two long-distance hiking routes through the South Caucasus. The goal is to expose travelers to the region's diverse landscapes and communities, blending adventure with cultural exploration.

The section of the trail through Azerbaijan will eventually span the entire Greater Caucasus range, from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea. A significant portion of the trail is already open, thanks to the 2022 launch of two new 100-kilometer stages in the northwest (Sheki-Zagatala) and northeast (Guba-Gusar) regions.

'Hiking these two sections in Azerbaijan, and the Transcaucasian Trail in general, offers a unique experience for trekkers,' says Nazrin Garibova, TCT Azerbaijan coordinator, who helped map the new routes. 'Hikers can journey between mountain villages, discover ancient fortresses and religious landmarks, and witness dramatic shifts in landscapes along the way.'

To Grizdehne from Griz

At a cozy homestay in Griz, we enjoy a hearty meal of buttery pilaf, followed by endless cups of soothing black tea and sweet white cherry preserve. Sitting cross-legged on handwoven carpets, a serene silence surrounds us, with a beam of sunlight streaming through a small window. The contrast between this peaceful mountain retreat and the vibrant city of Baku, just three hours away, couldn't be more striking.

The final stretch of the trail follows an ancient footpath used by the people of Griz to visit their relatives in Grizdehne, a village nestled at the foot of the mountain. Ahead, a web of shepherd paths stretches across the slope, while to the right, the silver thread of the Gudiyalchay River winds its way through a vast valley, veiled by fast-moving clouds.

Suddenly, the landscape shifts dramatically. At the edge of a grassy ridge, the trail plunges into a narrow, steep-sided canyon, where it descends sharply for hundreds of meters to a dense forest below. The path is littered with loose stones, and bear tracks are visible along the way, marked by scattered excrement.

'They're drawn to the trash bins below,' explains our guide Togrul. While bear sightings are extremely rare, hikers are advised to be cautious around the occasionally aggressive shepherd dogs that roam the area.

One last challenge remains – a slippery scree slope – before the trail evens out and we reach the edge of the forest. From there, it's a gentle 45-minute stroll through tranquil deciduous woods, with hornbeam and oak trees, providing a perfect conclusion to this brief journey through the rich cultural and natural wonders of the Caucasus Mountains.