Why Uruguay might emerge as the next global wine hotspot

Rolling hills adorned with terraced vineyards and gnarled olive trees create a scenic patchwork, crisscrossed by a network of dusty, winding roads. Venture far enough along these rugged paths, and you'll discover an olive oil mill, a farm-to-table eatery, and a hilltop winery.

In fact, with a little imagination, this region could easily be mistaken for Tuscany – though, of course, the wild capybaras (the largest rodents on the planet) and the ostrich-like rheas roaming through the vines are clear signs that you're not in Italy, but in South America.

South American wines are certainly not unknown. When wine experts from California, France, or Italy talk about fine South American wines, they usually mention two countries: Chile and Argentina.

Chile revived the once-forgotten French grape, Carménère, and created Bordeaux-style blends that now rival the best from the Old World. Meanwhile, Argentina became the leader in the global Malbec trend, securing the grape a permanent place in wine shops worldwide.

However, there's a rising contender that has been gaining attention in recent years, largely due to a groundbreaking new winery experimenting with grape varieties and challenging regional norms.

The country is Uruguay, and the winery leading the charge is Bodega Garzón.

This truly is a wine lover's paradise.

Located inland from the trendy beach town of José Ignacio, about three hours east of Montevideo, Garzón’s vineyards are less than a decade old. Yet, the winery has already earned a remarkable list of accolades.

In 2018, Wine Enthusiast Magazine named Garzón the New World Winery of the Year. The following year, it earned the No. 2 spot on the first-ever list of the World's Best Vineyards Academy’s top 50.

Suddenly, the world is starting to take a closer look at South America’s often-overlooked wine regions.

Uruguay boasts a winemaking history that spans 150 years, but it has often struggled to gain the same level of recognition as its neighboring countries.

The country’s small size may be a factor. As South America’s second-smallest nation, Uruguay has traditionally had a wine industry that is limited in scale, exports, and occasionally in quality.

Bodega Garzón is determined to change this perception, though it hasn't been without its challenges.

Located on South America's Atlantic Coast, Garzón benefits from a unique environment for winemaking.

Christian Wylie, the winery's managing director, points out that one of the biggest challenges they face is the location itself. Many people don’t even know where Uruguay is. (For reference, it’s nestled between Argentina and Brazil on South America’s Atlantic coast.)

When hosting tastings of Garzón wines globally, Wylie says one of their first steps is to show a map. They emphasize that Uruguay lies on the same latitude as renowned wine regions in Chile, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.

This means the region has all the right conditions for producing exceptional wines.

What sets Bodega Garzón apart from most other wineries in Uruguay is its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, just 11 miles (18 kilometers) away.

Interestingly, the land was once nothing more than grazing pasture for cows. (Uruguayans consume more beef per capita than any other nation—take that, Argentina.)

Alejandro Bulgheroni, the billionaire Argentine owner, initially intended to develop the land into a wind farm, capitalizing on the cool Atlantic winds. However, his wife, Bettina, who owns a nearby house, persuaded him to plant grapes instead, citing concerns about the aesthetics.

Ocean-influenced wines from the region

To determine whether the rolling, granitic hills were suitable for vineyards, Bulgheroni enlisted the expertise of renowned Italian winemaker Alberto Antonini.

In just over a decade, the duo has transformed the landscape, creating a 524-acre wine region and sparking a local movement focused on ocean-influenced wines.

Uruguay boasts around 22,250 acres (approximately 9,000 hectares) of vineyards.

Most of the vineyards are located in Canelones Department, facing the River Plate. However, Antonini believes this isn't the prime spot. 'It's the closest to Montevideo, where the first European settlers arrived,' he says.

At Garzón, Antonini and Bulgheroni feel they've discovered a new frontier for South American wines.

Bulgheroni also managed to incorporate wind power into the project.

Producing wine sustainably.

Although his wind energy project didn't come to fruition, Bulgheroni's efforts helped Bodega Garzón become the first winery in the world to secure LEED Silver certification for its entire facility, partially due to its use of wind power. LEED, developed by the U.S. Green Building Council, evaluates environmental impacts and human benefits of a building.

The winery’s eco-friendly design features impressive elements like Latin America's largest green roof with native species. The structure, designed by Mendoza-based architects Bórmida & Yanzón, integrates into the hills and natural terraces, using a gravity-flow system for winemaking.

Since opening in 2016, the winery has attracted 20,000 visitors annually to the small town of Pueblo Garzón, with a population of just 200.

Visitors typically start with a tour that descends into underground caves, where barrels, steel tanks, and the increasingly popular concrete 'eggs' are stored. You can also explore abstract sculptures by Uruguayan artist Pablo Atchugarry before heading to the production area, which can produce up to 200,000 cases annually, though current output is around 110,000 cases.

Gourmet dining with a celebrity chef

A luxurious private club, an olive oil mill, and a 120-seat restaurant helmed by celebrity chef Francis Mallmann, known for his open-fire cooking featured on Netflix’s 'Chef’s Table,' ensure that visitors stay much longer than anticipated.

A key factor in Bodega Garzón’s ability to produce exceptional wines is the careful selection of grape varieties suited to Uruguay's hot, humid climate.

Tannat, a bold and tannic red wine from southern France, was already a signature grape of Uruguay long before Garzón entered the scene. It was an obvious choice.

One of Garzón’s biggest surprises has been Albariño, a Galician white varietal that has won acclaim for its vibrant freshness, mineral notes, and smooth finish. The winery also showcases Cabernet Franc, traditionally a Bordeaux blending grape, as a single varietal, emphasizing its soft tannins and spicy complexity.

The flagship wine, Balasto, is a blend of Tannat, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Marselan. Its name pays tribute to the weathered granite soil at Garzón, which helps with drainage during the wet months, resulting in wines that are lively rather than heavy.

It seems that trying a bottle from Uruguay is no longer reserved for the adventurous wine drinker.