Winston Churchill's Historic Old War Office Transformed into London’s Most Discussed Luxury Hotel: A Personal Review.

The Dinogo Perspective

Nestled in the vibrant heart of Whitehall, renowned for its rich history, the highly anticipated Raffles London at the OWO (Old War Office) opened its doors in September 2023. Housed within the majestic Edwardian baroque building, adorned with pale Portland stone and a stunning cupola, the hotel stands on the site where some of the 20th century's most pivotal decisions were made.

This location has a storied past, having hosted Secretaries of State for War such as Winston Churchill, Lloyd George, and the notorious John Profumo; T.E. Lawrence, known as Lawrence of Arabia, also worked here. The OWO is the birthplace of the illustrious British secret services, MI5 and MI6, whose agents inspired Ian Fleming’s iconic 007 character. Inaugurated in 1906 at the peak of Britain’s imperial era, the building was surpassed by the new Ministry of Defense in 1964 and was later leased in 2016 to the British Indian multi-billionaire Hinduja Group for 250 years. This marks their inaugural hotel project, following their origins as a trading company in India in 1914.

Following an extensive $1.76 billion renovation and expansion led by EPR Architects, with input from 37 heritage consultants, this legendary structure opened its doors to the public for the first time on September 29, 2023. It has been reimagined as the flagship hotel for the Raffles brand, established in Singapore, and is now part of the French hospitality giant Accor. The interiors, designed by the late Thierry Despont, who excelled in heritage luxury properties like the Ritz Paris and Carlyle in New York, showcase original British oak paneling, luxurious textiles, and exquisite marble. The expansive ten-foot wide guest room corridors are now adorned with patterned red and white carpets, and leather-trimmed scarlet drapes reminiscent of the uniforms of the Household Cavalry just across Whitehall.

Beneath the surface, the cutting-edge Guerlain Spa, in partnership with nutrition and movement experts Pillar Wellbeing, spans an impressive 27,000 square feet across four levels. Designed by Goddard Littlefair, it includes a 65-foot swimming pool and nine treatment rooms offering luxurious experiences such as the deeply relaxing Spirit of London massage, which incorporates LED light therapy.

As I entered, I couldn’t help but admire the beautifully restored winged Grand Staircase—crafted from Piastraccia marble, with balusters made of English alabaster and handrails of veined Brescia marble—ascending two stories to a piano nobile balcony. "It was from this balcony that Churchill would address the public," the doorman shared, mentioning that Sir Winston would touch one of the carved lions at the base of the staircase for good fortune. All around me, fellow guests posed for selfies under the magnificent iDogi chandelier made of Venetian crystal, a stunning centerpiece of the OWO’s revitalized aesthetic.

Who is it for?

Those who appreciate luxury intertwined with British historical charm will find much to love here. Fans of Raffles’ signature atmospheric elegance will also be drawn in. For die-hard 007 fans, the allure is amplified by the building’s appearances in five different James Bond films. Art and culture enthusiasts will relish the hotel’s close proximity to some of London’s finest museums, while children can marvel at the sight of cavalry horses just across the street.

The location

This location is right in the heart of central London. Directly opposite Whitehall is the Georgian architecture of Horse Guards and its expansive parade ground, which opens up to the lush greenery of St. James’s Park. I strolled past white pelicans and black swans on the tranquil lake before arriving at Buckingham Palace’s gates. A leisurely 10-minute walk south along Whitehall takes you past the Imperial War Museum and Downing Street—don't forget to wave to the Prime Minister—before arriving at Big Ben, Parliament, and Westminster Abbey. A short walk north leads to Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery, and the newly reopened National Portrait Gallery, with the vibrant entertainment district of Leicester Square just a few minutes further.

A short stroll eastward leads you to the Thames and the charming Victorian riverside walk known as the Embankment. The colossal wheel of the London Eye dominates the view across the river. While it can be challenging to find lesser-known eateries in the immediate vicinity, the lively dining scenes of Soho and Bloomsbury are just a pleasant walk away. For newcomers to the city, this location serves as a breathtaking introduction to London; for seasoned visitors like myself, who often frequent the trendy neighborhoods of East and North London, it’s a poignant reminder of the city’s original allure.

The rooms

Thierry Despont transformed 120 guest rooms and luxurious suites from former office spaces and state rooms. (There are also 85 branded residences available.) My 893-square-foot Ministerial Suite offered a soothing blend of historical resonance and serene elegance—think of a private Edwardian club meets Zen tranquility. From the comfort of my pale gray and white plaid armchair in the living room, I gazed down upon Whitehall and the Horse Guards, complete with their mounted plumed sentries. The black-speckled carpet mirrored the intricate mosaic tiles in the corridors, while the floor-to-ceiling drapes continued the theme of gray and white. The plush bed, adorned with the softest custom linens, beckoned invitingly. The marbled bathrooms featured heated floors and the “1906” amenities, sandalwood-scented bespoke creations from the award-winning London perfumer Azzi Glasser.

Classic Rooms start at a spacious 334 square feet, featuring original artwork, marble bathrooms, and modern amenities like bedside touchscreen control tablets. On the higher end, the Heritage Suites—once the domain of politicians and military leaders—boast exquisitely restored oak paneling, expansive floor-to-ceiling windows, and ornate Georgian fireplaces made of marble (currently non-functional). The Haldane Suite, where Churchill worked diligently and Profumo likely dreamt of Christine Keeler, can be merged into the expansive nearly 5,400-square-foot Whitehall Wing, accommodating up to 12 guests, making it one of London’s largest luxury hotel wings. The eight Corner Suites, styled in art deco and located in the building’s corners, are named after notable women and spies linked to the OWO's history.

The food and drink

With three bars and nine restaurants (some still under development), the OWO is set to transform the quiet Whitehall area into a vibrant dining and nightlife destination. The hotel has made headlines by collaborating with Argentinian superchef Mauro Colagreco, known for his three Michelin-starred restaurant Mirazur in Menton, France. Colagreco is making his London debut here, offering three unique culinary experiences that emphasize meticulously sourced U.K. produce and his strong commitment to sustainability.

At Colagreco’s elegantly simple fine dining venue, dishes are cleverly named after their star vegetable ingredients—such as Radicchio and Squash—accompanied by charming postcard illustrations of the produce. Among the delightful selection of amuse-bouches and petit fours, the standout dish was “Lettuce”: a salad featuring smoked haddock and tender red-oak lettuce leaves (cultivated by local urban farmers) served in a luxurious cockle-vermouth sauce. The celebration of British biodiversity continues at Mauro’s Table next door, an intimate and stylish space that accommodates around 20 guests.

I thoroughly enjoyed my dining experiences at Saison, Colagreco’s casual all-day eatery located in the former military library of the OWO, where Ian Fleming, a Naval Intelligence officer, would often conduct research. The space has been beautifully reimagined into a vibrant tribute to the French-Italian Riviera, featuring a landscape mural and white trellised walls beneath a restored high glass arcade. I indulged multiple times at the stylish breakfast buffet, relishing exquisite tarts, brioches, and madeleines. My dinner was unforgettable, highlighted by orecchiette adorned with vibrant pistachio pesto and pink cubes of raw bluefin tuna, succulent roasted quail paired with smoked chestnuts and clementines, and a delightful plum panna cotta that has me still dreaming about it.

Currently open among the hotel’s dining options are the Drawing Room, a cozy wood-paneled lounge offering views of Horse Guards and serving upscale afternoon teas; the London branch of the elegant Café Laperouse, a favorite among the Hermes crowd; and a location of the trendy Milanese eatery Paper Moon. Set to launch in 2024 is a panoramic rooftop restaurant, complemented by a ground-floor sake bar, created by Michelin-starred sushi chef Endo Kazutoshi.

When it comes to drinks, the Guards Bar and Lounge pays homage to the OWO’s enduring ties with the Household Cavalry, serving innovative twists on the classic Raffles Singapore Sling. In contrast, the dimly lit, speakeasy-style Spy Bar, which is accessible exclusively to hotel guests, resides underground in the former interrogation rooms of the top-secret Special Operations Executive. Behind the bar, you’ll find half of James Bond’s iconic silver Aston Martin DB5—just a reminder, don’t attempt to take it for a spin after indulging in your third 007-themed martini, cleverly revamped with rhubarb.

Staff and service

The staff are friendly and down-to-earth, genuinely proud of their workplace, and always ready to assist a sometimes overwhelmed guest like me with navigating the hotel’s occasionally complex layout. The concierge team managed a few off-site reservations on my behalf and consistently checked in to see if I needed help, as did the bowler-hatted French doorman. Leading the team at the OWO is Philippe Leboeuf, the managing director, who has previously held general manager positions at prestigious establishments like Claridge’s in London, the Hôtel de Crillon in Paris, and the Carlyle in New York.

Accessibility

Three rooms and two suites are specifically designed for accessibility, with adjustable beds available in all accommodations to meet the needs of guests requiring additional support. The hotel features multiple spacious elevators serving all guest floors and event areas, as well as three outdoor ramps and one indoor ramp (leading to the Paper Moon restaurant). Each floor is equipped with an assembly point for wheelchair users, complete with emergency buttons and intercom systems.

And more history

How many hotels can boast a dedicated History Concierge to answer queries and lead tours? Guests will discover hallways enhanced with curated wartime artworks, including field sketches of World War I tanks and portraits of women who contributed to World War II industries. These pieces add a surprising historical layer to the hotel’s grandeur—its striking carpet pattern pays tribute to the restored cast-iron grills that once covered the original telephone lines beneath the flooring. The impressive width of the corridors was intentionally designed to accommodate hurried messengers transporting highly sensitive communications, many of whom were Boy Scouts, amusingly enough, who also assisted lost officers in navigating the labyrinth of offices.

The OWO will welcome public visits for 10 days each year, as stipulated in the lease agreement with the Ministry of Defense—further emphasizing the significance of its historical legacy.