Without Tourists, the Future of Portuguese Cuisine Remains Uncertain

Nowhere in Europe has tourism significantly shaped the culinary landscape like in Portugal. In recent years, the influx of travelers surged dramatically, contributing 18 million euros to the local economy in 2019 alone, a notable rise from just 9.4 million in 2014. This boom led to a proliferation of businesses, particularly restaurants, adapting to meet the growing demand. However, the impact on local cuisine extends far beyond just financial gains.

Traditionally, Portuguese cuisine was viewed primarily as home-cooked fare rather than fine dining, similar to many other great culinary traditions. 'We’ve always taken pride in our cuisine, but it took the appreciation from outsiders to really validate that pride,' remarks chef José Avillez, owner of the esteemed Belcanto in Lisbon, who runs 18 restaurants in total.

Before the onset of COVID-19 curtailed international tourism, Portugal was poised to establish itself as a leading global culinary hub. The New York Times featured Portuguese cities on its '52 Places to Go' list in both 2017 and 2019, and for three consecutive years, Portugal was recognized as the best European destination by the World Travel Awards. Dinogo published a comprehensive guide to dining in Lisbon in 2017, and in 2020, it named Porto among the world’s 19 most vibrant food cities.

After years of focusing on French and Italian cuisine, a new generation of Portuguese chefs has begun to embrace a global trend of culinary introspection: honoring the native ingredients, methods, and recipes of their homeland with the same respect once reserved for Escoffier. Thanks to an increasing international appreciation, a movement to revive traditional flavors and techniques has gained momentum across the country.

“Historically, we have been quite insular, and our cuisine has mirrored that,” remarks Carlos Alfonso, co-founder of O Frade with his cousin Sergio in 2019. Alongside other Mytouries like Taberna Sal Grosso, Semea, Prado, and Taberna do Calhau, they emerged in part to cater to tourists eager to experience authentic Portuguese dishes rather than opting for French or Italian fine dining. Consequently, meals such as pato de escabeche (marinated duck), arroz de robalo (sea bass rice), and rabanadas (Portugal's version of French toast) began to dominate local menus, much to the delight of curious visitors.

As of early 2020, the culinary scene was thriving, with exciting new establishments like Fogo and Plano opening their doors and offering innovative takes on Portuguese cooking. “We were experiencing the golden age of our gastronomy,” Alfonso reflects. “In Lisbon, new restaurants were debuting almost daily.”

“But then,” he continues, “the coronavirus hit.” This sudden halt has echoed across nations grappling with the pandemic, and the forecasts for the local economy—especially those reliant on tourism—are grim. The impact is particularly acute for the hospitality sector, which may struggle to recover fully. For Portugal, the most significant consequence might be to its culinary heritage. With so much of Portuguese cuisine’s status tied to foreign interest, local chefs and restaurateurs fear that the steep decline in tourism could jeopardize the food identity of Portugal, along with the entire culinary ecosystem that has recently been established to support it.

Phase two of Portugal’s reopening has been underway since May 18, allowing restaurants and cafes to resume operations under new social distancing guidelines. However, the recovery of the local industry is anticipated to be gradual. A recent survey from the restaurant association PRO.VAR indicates that nearly 30 percent of the nation's restaurants may now face permanent closure due to months of reduced business and government restrictions.

Since the onset of the epidemic in March, hotel reservations in Portugal have plummeted by nearly 50 percent compared to the same month last year, and Portuguese airports recorded 24,000 fewer flights. The European Union is set to maintain a suspension of all flights to and from countries outside the Schengen Area until at least June 15 (with some exceptions), leading to a significant impact on tourism for many months, if not years, to come.

“Our innovative cuisine relies heavily on gastronomic tourism,” states Paulina Mata, professor and head of the first master’s program in Gastronomic Sciences at Universidade Nova de Lisboa. Many creative interpretations of traditional dishes depend on foreign visitors; without their financial backing, numerous avant-garde Portuguese restaurants may face closure.

Mata emphasizes that merging the visions of Portuguese chefs with global culinary trends is crucial for the advancement of the country’s gastronomy — a challenging task without international travel. “If it doesn’t remain dynamic, it risks stagnation,” she warns. “Without tourists, our gastronomy faces a serious threat. Each chef brings their unique perspective on local ingredients and flavors, enriching our culinary landscape. The loss of any chef due to restaurant closures diminishes our situation significantly.”

It's not just chefs and restaurant owners feeling the impact. The surge of Portuguese restaurants created a beneficial ripple effect for suppliers, farmers, and a whole network of ingredients—this relationship is mutually dependent. With fewer restaurants to supply, farmers—many of whom grow specialty ingredients vital to Portuguese cuisine—may need to reduce their output or stop altogether. The same applies to fishermen, bakers, and other small vendors who have relied on the thriving Portuguese food scene for their livelihoods.

Chef António Galapito of Lisbon’s renowned Prado worries that the crisis may compel cooks and restaurant owners to opt for cheaper alternatives, sourcing inferior ingredients from suppliers outside Portugal. “Many are beginning to use less expensive Vietnamese clams, for instance, to create dishes like carne de porco à alentejana,” he notes, referencing the beloved Portuguese dish of pork and clams.

“This could harm Portuguese cuisine as a whole, leading to a detrimental domino effect. We have some of the finest seafood globally,” he emphasizes. “I hope that at least chefs from high-end restaurants will continue to value our local produce and recognize its importance for our culinary advancement.”

Three years ago, inspired by a rising pride in Portuguese cuisine, chef João Rodrigues from the acclaimed Lisbon restaurant Feitoria initiated Projecto Matéria, aimed at building relationships with and supporting small regional producers across the country. “We are facing a crisis that could severely affect the entire supply chain, as our country heavily relies on tourism,” Rodrigues states. “Businesses are at risk, and worse yet, we may have to retrace our steps significantly to regain our progress.”

Many businesses won't survive the wait for tourists to return. Meanwhile, the government has intervened to support some local enterprises, including restaurants, by offering financial assistance—primarily payroll support and rent deferrals during the pandemic's peak. Local restaurant associations are now pushing for an extension of these measures through June 2021, but this request remains unapproved. A recent survey indicated that over 70 percent of Portuguese restaurants cannot continue operations without further government aid.

If history serves as a guide, Portugal might be one of the first European nations to witness a significant return of international tourists. Paulo Amado, a food writer and publisher of Inter Magazine, Portugal's sole food-focused publication, recalls that following the 2008 financial crisis, Portugal emerged as Europe’s hidden gem, attracting tourists for its affordability relative to other countries on the continent.

“It took time for us to gain recognition,” Amado states. “As investments flowed in, people began to see that the country had excellent producers and ingredients, talented chefs, and fantastic restaurants. This helped the world grasp what Portugal truly had to offer.” While many experts predict Europe will be among the last regions to recover as a travel destination, Portugal’s lower barriers may once again enable a quicker rebound. Chef Vasco Coelho Santos of Porto’s Euskalduna Studios adds, “We are also a small country, which gives us an advantage for a faster recovery.” Portugal has also effectively managed to limit the overall COVID-19 infection rate compared to many European countries, potentially easing concerns for international visitors.

In the interim, however, Santos believes Portuguese restaurants must rethink their operations to draw in more local customers. This will involve making changes, including adjustments to staffing, pricing, and—regrettably—menu items. He acknowledges having to remove some costly ingredients, such as local Mediterranean lobster, from his offerings.

“But perhaps this can provide a fresh boost to Portuguese gastronomy,” Santos reflects, “helping locals appreciate its distinctiveness, something tourists have always valued.” Local journalist Paulo Amado concurs, adding, “For a while, we will have to depend solely on domestic patrons and, with a bit of luck, on our Spanish neighbors.”

Gastronomic consultant Teresa Vivas, dedicated to promoting Portuguese cuisine globally, perceives a silver lining in the current crisis. 'From an identity standpoint, Portuguese cuisine is likely to become even more authentic and rooted in tradition. After a heavy focus on mass tourism, this moment allows us to turn our gaze inward,' she remarks. 'I truly believe our gastronomy will emerge revitalized and more genuine than ever before.'

Rafael Tonon is a journalist and food writer based between Brazil and Portugal.