Would you try ‘ugly’ seafood? You might at this spot

It’s commonly believed that nine out of ten restaurants in the U.S. shut down within their first year.

These alarming statistics are now considered more myth than fact, almost like something straight out of the jaws of a horror film.

A more accurate figure, based on a recent study from Ohio State University’s Hospitality Management Program, shows that three out of five restaurants either fail or undergo a change of management within the first three years—still a frighteningly high rate.

So what would drive any restaurateur to brave such perilous waters?

Especially one in this dining age where the word “casual” feels like it’s under constant siege—who would dare open a high-end, prix-fixe, perfection-driven restaurant with real silverware and white tablecloths on the edge of Hollywood in Los Angeles, the restaurant turnover capital of the world?

That daring restaurateur is Michael Cimarusti, who’s not only created a top-tier dining experience but has also assembled an impeccable waitstaff that can effortlessly explain the nuances of dishes like the cured scallop tartare served in a wild nasturtium leaf ‘taco’ shell, along with a bold tasting menu that features a signature shellfish dish called The Ugly Bunch.

"I originally considered calling that dish ‘The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly,’ then briefly thought of ‘Highway One,’" says Cimarusti, executive chef and co-owner of Providence, which, over a decade after opening, remains one of the most highly regarded dining spots in L.A.

"It’s a great dish. I love it. And it’s been called The Ugly Bunch for about five years now," Cimarusti adds. "So I guess we’re sticking with that name."

Just like L.A. is sticking with Providence.

The restaurant

Set in a discreetly renowned culinary location on a modest stretch of Melrose Avenue, shared with a party supply warehouse, Providence occupies the former spaces of two iconic L.A. eateries: Le St. Germain (1970-1988) and the original Patina by Joachim Splichal, which has since moved to downtown’s Walt Disney Concert Hall.

For a kitchen with lofty culinary ambitions, 5955 Melrose Avenue is a coveted address. But in L.A.’s notoriously unpredictable dining scene, charm alone doesn’t guarantee success.

Maybe three months, estimates Donato Poto, co-owner and general manager of Providence, who has witnessed countless once-buzzing L.A. restaurants rise and fall over 35 years in the industry.

"L.A. is a strange city," says Poto. "It can give you false hope. You see it time and time again – places that are packed for a few months, and then by the end of the year, they’re shut down without a clue as to why."

"This business..." Poto pauses. "...Some days, you feel like running away from it all – but thankfully, those days are rare for us."

Ten years in, Providence is renowned for its seafood-focused masterpieces, including the creation of the Ugly Bunch trio (sea urchin, geoduck, and abalone, meticulously presented atop crème fraiche panna cotta) – a dish so beautifully crafted it’s almost too stunning to eat.

Cimarusti and his team have become local legends for their creative reinventions. Other standout dishes include a deceptively simple yet visually striking Santa Barbara Spot Prawn, served with tomato and bronze fennel.

Uni Egg: sea urchin tucked beneath scrambled eggs and champagne beurre blanc, a beloved dish.

The secret recipe for success.

Yet, Providence’s greatest triumph may be its ability to defy the odds of surviving in the volatile world of high-end L.A. dining—where once-celebrated spots like Rivera, Sona, and Campanile are now only distant memories.

What’s the secret to surviving in this business?

"To be honest, I’m not sure – except for having an incredibly loyal, talented, and dedicated team whose energy powers us every day, and simply focusing on being the absolute best we can be," says Cimarusti, a multiple-time James Beard Foundation Best Chef nominee, whose career includes years spent at L.A.'s top dining spots, including Water Grill and Spago.

"Our skills and influences at Providence have definitely evolved over time, and after a decade, the overall picture is a bit clearer," Cimarusti reflects. "But our core vision hasn’t really changed since day one. It’s about hard work – and hopefully a lot of fun along the way."

Over the past ten years, Providence has accumulated numerous accolades, including a 2006 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in its debut year, two Michelin stars, and the top spot on Jonathan Gold’s “101 Best Restaurants” list in 2014, where it held the number one ranking for the second consecutive year.

"L.A. may be known for prioritizing movie stars over Michelin stars," says Poto, "but one thing’s certain: people in this city still have a deep appreciation for exceptional food and service."

"You can still surprise people with a meal in Los Angeles," says Poto. "That never gets old for us."

Sustainability in ingredients

At Providence, the ingredients shift regularly to reflect the changing seasons and align with the restaurant's newly introduced tasting-menu-only format.

They also highlight sustainable seafood and fishing practices, a cause that Cimarusti is deeply committed to. He has even spoken before senators and congressmen in Washington to raise awareness on the issue.

"When I was younger, working at Water Grill and Spago, I was beginning to realize the importance of these practices," Cimarusti recalls. "But now, you’d have to be living under a rock not to know the impact. When a food blogger in Tokyo posts about the joys of eating Pacific bluefin tuna – which now only makes up 4% of its original population – that’s not helping the cause."

On the flip side, he clarifies that sustainability shouldn’t be mistaken for avoiding fish altogether.

"If you truly want to protect Pacific salmon, you need to eat Pacific salmon," Cimarusti states. "Without a market for wild Pacific salmon, there won’t be fishermen catching them, and lawmakers won’t enforce measures to safeguard them."

In 2013, the Providence team took a bold step to meet L.A.’s seafood cravings by opening Connie & Ted’s, a casual West Hollywood spot named after Cimarusti’s Rhode Island grandparents, inspired by the traditional clam shacks of New England that he grew up visiting.

And he still enjoys them today.

"I was just back in Wellfleet [Cape Cod] a couple weeks ago, dining at one of those no-frills spots that serves a very simple style of cooking – yes, it was basic – but also some of the best fish and chips I’ve ever had," Cimarusti shares. "All from a fry mix."

Next up for the Providence group is Cape Seafood and Provisions, an upcoming fish market on Fairfax Avenue where customers can find the same high-quality ingredients featured at both restaurants.

Whether new to Providence or a long-time fan, visitors can now bring home restaurant-quality seafood for a special meal – even if it’s not quite the full Providence experience.

"Just like that fish ‘n chips joint in Wellfleet, it all comes down to the quality of the raw ingredients," says Cimarusti. "You really need some top-notch fish."

"And a cook," he adds, "who knows how to keep it simple and not mess it up."