You'll find this everywhere: South Indian filter coffee

India is renowned for its aromatic, spice-laden chai, but in Bengaluru (Bangalore) and throughout South India, another beloved hot drink takes the spotlight.

Stroll by any local breakfast spot in Bengaluru, and you'll see crowds gathered around stainless steel tables, enjoying fluffy idlis (spongy fermented rice cakes) and crispy masala dosas paired with steaming cups of filter coffee, often referred to as filter kaapi.

This robust brew—milky, sweet, infused with chicory, and frequently frothy—is a staple for many Bangaloreans. Whether sipped at home, in charming vintage or modern cafes, or at speedy darshini eateries (vegetarian fast food spots), South Indian filter coffee powers a city that's always bustling.

'It's bold, intense, and served in a small, short cup,' explains Suhas Dwarkanath, founder of Benki Brewing Tools, a Bengaluru-based company that offers a range of equipment for expert home brewing and operates a coffee shop in the city.

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The rich coffee heritage of South India

The South Indian passion for coffee dates back centuries. It is said that Baba Budan, a Sufi saint from the 16th century, smuggled coffee from Yemen into India on his return from the hajj. Despite the prohibition against exporting green coffee beans from the Arabian Peninsula, he secretly brought back seven beans to plant in the Chandradrona Hills near Bengaluru, marking the beginning of coffee cultivation in South India.

Recent genetic research into the origins of Indian coffee reveals minimal genetic diversity, suggesting there may be just one or two ancestral plants, according to Kurush F Dalal, an archaeologist and culinary anthropologist based in Mumbai. 'This brings renewed attention to the Baba Budan narrative and raises questions about the truth behind the legend,' he notes.

Regardless of Baba Budan's influence, by the 20th century, coffee had gained immense popularity across the southern states of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and Kerala. Today, Karnataka accounts for over 70% of India's coffee production—much of which is exported—and regions like Coorg and Chikmagalur have become popular travel destinations.

Bengaluru: The coffee capital of India

It’s no surprise that Bengaluru, the capital of Karnataka, is dubbed the coffee capital of India. Not only does it boast some of the most iconic spots for filter coffee, but it’s also the birthplace of modern coffee culture, home to Café Coffee Day, the country’s largest coffee chain, and Third Wave Coffee, one of the leading specialty coffee chains in India.

Bengaluru emerged as the coffee hub in the 1940s when the Indian government established the headquarters of the Coffee Board of India there. The economic reforms of 1991 opened up the nation and heralded a new era for coffee, with the rise of large chains and, more recently, a surge of trendy specialty coffee shops. Although this growth has created challenges for traditional filter coffee growers and roasters, filter coffee remains a beloved staple in South India.

'After experiencing the best and most expensive coffees from around the globe, I still find myself yearning for that chicory-infused South Indian filter coffee because it evokes so much nostalgia,' shares Dwarkanath, whose company collaborates with the Specialty Coffee Academy of India, a center dedicated to teaching locals the art of brewing. These businesses reflect both a rich tradition and Bengaluru's serious coffee culture.

Brewing the perfect cup

Filter coffee typically combines dark roasted coffee with chicory. The brewing process is deliberate and takes time. First, an Indian coffee filter, which consists of two cylindrical metal cups stacked together, is used. Finely ground coffee is placed in the upper cup, which has small holes at the bottom, and gently tamped down with a plunger. Then, boiling water is poured into the upper chamber. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes for the brewed coffee, known as decoction, to drip into the lower cup.

When the decoction is ready, it’s mixed with boiled milk and sweetened with sugar or jaggery. Traditionally, filter coffee is served in a brass or stainless steel tumbler that sits in a smaller metal container. This setup is also handy for cooling the coffee and mixing the ingredients by pouring the liquid back and forth between the two. If you’re fortunate, you might witness a talented coffee maker skillfully pouring the brew from impressive heights.

Top 5 coffee spots in Bengaluru

In Bengaluru, you’ll likely get a different recommendation for filter coffee from everyone you ask. The city boasts an almost limitless array of venues, from iconic favorites like Koshy’s to contemporary chains such as Hatti Kaapi. Even Starbucks has joined in, offering filter coffee on their menu.

Brahmin’s Coffee Bar

A beloved establishment in Basavanagudi, Brahmin’s has been dishing out filter coffee since the 1960s. With only standing tables available, the prices are budget-friendly for both coffee and a select menu of South Indian delights, including idli and vada (deep-fried lentil doughnuts) served with coconut chutney. The name has sparked some debate due to its reference to a caste in India, but everyone is welcome here.

Mavalli Tiffin Room (MTR)

MTR has been a cornerstone of Bengaluru’s culinary landscape for nearly a century. With multiple locations both locally and internationally, filter coffee shines on its menu, which features an extensive selection of South Indian dishes like dosas, rava (semolina) idli, and upma (rava prepared with onions, spices, chilies, and coconut).

Veena Stores

This delightful, no-frills establishment in Malleshwaram began as a local condiments shop in 1977. Be prepared for a wait to enjoy its renowned filter coffee and South Indian breakfast options, served with unlimited mint coconut chutney—definitely worth the wait.

Indian Coffee House

This iconic venue offers a taste of nostalgia. Established in the 1950s, its Church Street location still boasts blue and pink walls and staff dressed in red and white uniforms. Enjoy a cup of coffee alongside South Indian or other fare, such as mutton cutlets and omelets.

Rameshwaram Cafe

With three locations in Bengaluru, this relatively new quick-service spot has quickly gained popularity. The Indiranagar branch, for example, is always bustling with diners enjoying the cafe’s filter coffee alongside specialties like ghee pudi idlis, dosas, lemon rice, and more.

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