Your Essential Guide to Ikaria

The charming island of Ikaria, boasting 164km (102 miles) of picturesque coastline, rests peacefully among the Northern Aegean islands, just a short distance from the larger Samos.

This tranquil, rural destination features crystal-clear cerulean waters and rugged central mountains adorned with forests and carved by rocky gorges – a delightful blend of coastal beauty and quaint village life.

Named after the legendary Icarus, who is said to have fallen here after flying too close to the sun with his wax wings, Ikaria is also celebrated as the birthplace of Dionysos, the god of wine. The islanders are known for their lively celebrations called panagyria on saints' days, filled with an abundance of food, wine, and traditional dancing.

A trip to this hidden gem offers a chance to embrace Ikaria's tranquility and the locals' approach to life; their active Mediterranean lifestyle and herb-rich diet contribute to remarkable longevity – it's recognized as one of the world's Blue Zones, with 1 in 3 residents living into their 90s.

When is the best time to visit Ikaria?

Ikaria sees its highest visitor numbers during the summer, as both Greek and international travelers flock to enjoy the vibrant panagyria festivals and relax by the beach, with crowds peaking in August. However, spring and autumn are ideal for hiking, offering cooler temperatures and beautiful blooming flowers in spring. Winter brings a quieter atmosphere, providing opportunities to connect with locals and explore in tranquility, often at reduced accommodation rates (though some places may close for the season).

How long should I stay on Ikaria?

If you're pressed for time, aim for one beach day (consider Seychelles or Nas) and one mountain day (around Rahes) to sample island life. Ideally, though, you'll want to spend more than just a few days here – the essence of enjoyment in Ikaria lies in savoring every moment.

You can easily explore various coasts with their stunning beaches over several days, as well as hike the rugged trails leading to and through mountain villages. A week is perfect to truly grasp life on Ikaria, and anything beyond that is pure delight.

If you're planning an extended stay, consider enrolling in a multi-day Greek language course at the Ikarian Centre in Arethousa, where you're likely to hear goat bells over motorbike engines. They also offer hiking tours and guided nature walks with Ikarian Footprints, led by the knowledgeable Lefteris Trikiriotis.

How accessible is Ikaria?

Although Ikaria is somewhat remote, it boasts a small airport with flights to and from Athens. Additionally, it lies on key ferry routes connecting to the mainland ports of Piraeus (via the Cyclades) and Kavala in the north, as well as the Dodecanese Islands. The island has two ports, Evdilos and Agios Kirykos, which are quite distant from each other; ensure you know which port to head to in order to avoid overspending on taxi fares.

Renting a car or scooter is advisable for exploring areas beyond the main towns. In the summer, you can also take a daily caïque (a small traditional boat) from Agios Kirykos to Therma, or a boat that connects Manganitis to the beautiful Seychelles Beach, located 2.5km (1.5 miles) away, perfect for swimming and sunbathing.

During the summer months, a busy daily bus operates along the scenic route from Agios Kirykos to Hristos Rahes, stopping at Evdilos and Armenistis, and it also serves Ikaria Airport.

Must-see attractions in Ikaria

Seychelles Beach

Outside of August, when the crowds can be overwhelming, join fellow visitors for a memorable trip to the breathtaking Seychelles Beach, just 2.5km east of Manganitis. With its marble pebbles, emerald waters, and smooth, wave-polished rocks, it feels like you’ve been transported to the Indian Ocean, which inspired its name.

Therma Hot Springs

At the quaint harbor of Therma, swim about 30m (98ft) towards a prominent cave on the southern side of the bay. As you glide through the water, you’ll start to notice warm, radon-infused water mixing with the Aegean. Enter the cave to find a cozy circle of large stones where you can relax in the soothing warmth.

Afianes Winery

Pay homage to Dionysos at this charming family-run winery perched atop the hill above Hristos Rahes. If you plan your visit during sunset, you’ll be treated to stunning views down the slope while savoring tastings and food pairings outdoors under a rosy sky.

Explore the Rahes Region

The essence of Ikaria thrives in the cool highlands above Armenistis, where a collection of charming villages, known as Rahes (with Hristos Rahes as the main village), comes alive after sunset, filled with children playing in the streets and adults enjoying coffee or raki. This vibrant nightlife traces back to when locals aimed to give the impression that the island was deserted to deter pirate attacks from nearby Fourni.

Occasionally, a roof made of stone slabs serves as a remnant of an era when residents sought to disguise their homes as mere piles of rocks. By day, the villages of Rahes act as starting points for exhilarating hikes through Ikaria's highlands, rich in pine forests and fruit orchards.

Manganitis and Karkinagri, nestled in Ikaria's southwestern corner, are tranquil spots that feel like the edge of the world, featuring quaint fishing ports and a handful of tavernas. You can trek down from the stark, moonlike plateau south of Hristos Rahes.

My top activity in Ikaria

Although Dionysos may no longer oversee Ikaria's vineyards, his spirit endures in the island's vibrant summertime panigyria—all-night festivals celebrating saints' days throughout Ikaria. There’s no better way to immerse yourself in Greek island culture than by indulging in drinks, dancing, and feasting while honoring a village’s patron saint. Just be sure to book your accommodations well ahead, as the island buzzes during panigyria.

You can also explore the ancient god's famed hideaway amidst stunning coastal views. On the eastern side of Fanari village, hike up a dirt path that leads to a fork where a sign directs you toward the Fortress of Drakanos. Follow this trail to discover the 2500-year-old archaeological site, offering panoramic views of Samos, then descend via a well-marked path to Iero Beach. This charming cove, with its crystal-clear waters, is home to Dionysos’ cave, where he supposedly frolicked with maenads and satyrs, according to legend.

What’s the budget for Ikaria?

Ikaria is typically an affordable destination, especially if you visit outside of August, when prices are at their highest and booking can be tricky.

Typical daily expenses include:

• Standard room for two: €35–120

• Self-catering apartment: €90–200

• Caïque (small boat) from Agios Kirykos to Therma: €3

• Taxi from the airport to Armenistis: €70

• Greek coffee: €2.50

• Sandwich: €5

• Meal for two: €30-50

• Beer/pint at a bar: €4

Where's the best place to stay?

Many visitors flock to the beaches along the northern coast, especially near Armenistis. For a more tranquil getaway, the southern shores of Fanari and Therma offer peace away from the hustle. If you're traveling by car, the mountain area of Hristos Rahes is a charming place to stay, though accommodations can be limited. The island's top restaurants, blending traditional and innovative cuisines, are found around Armenistis and Hristos Rahes.