Your first-time guide to Curitiba, Brazil

Known as Brazil’s premier “green” city, Curitiba (pronounced kr-uh-CHEE-buh) has earned acclaim for its dedication to mass transit and innovative urban design, much of which dates back to the 1970s.

As the eighth-largest city in the country, Curitiba boasts surprising diversity, with residents of Polish, Italian, Jewish, and Japanese descent. While it may not be widely recognized as a tourist hotspot, Curitiba deserves an extended stay for its beautiful parks, unique architecture, and groundbreaking sustainability efforts. At its heart lies a stunning array of well-maintained green spaces, highlighted by a magnificent botanical garden. Amidst this greenery, a quaint historic downtown area features charming art nouveau and neoclassical structures set against towering high-rises.

Curitiba also serves as an excellent base for exploring the surrounding region. To the west, you’ll find monumental sandstone rock formations, while to the east, coastal rainforests and surfing beaches await.

Here’s all the essential information a first-time visitor to Curitiba should know.

Like the city itself, the botanical garden is stunning throughout the year. Shutterstock

When is the best time to visit Curitiba?

Curitiba enjoys a mild, spring-like climate year-round, ensuring you won’t face the extreme heat or cold typical of other areas in South America.

The most pleasant weather, with warm temperatures and moderate rainfall, occurs in February and March. This period also aligns with the city's relatively low-key (by Brazilian standards) carnival, which typically takes place in mid-to-late February.

In short, there’s no bad season to visit Curitiba. While summer (December to March) sees slightly more rain, winter (June to August) is cooler and drier. The retreating cold and humidity in August provides comfortable days. If you're looking for better hotel rates, consider visiting in the shoulder months of May and September.

Regardless of your stay duration in Curitiba, the city is sure to leave a lasting impression. Jose Fernando Ogura/Getty Images

How long should I stay in Curitiba?

Although many travelers use Curitiba as a stopover, you can easily enjoy three days discovering the city and its surroundings.

On your first day, take advantage of the city's renowned public transport system to explore top attractions like the botanical gardens and the Oscar Niemeyer Museum.

Dedicate your second day to a journey on the Serra Verde Express, celebrated as one of the world’s most stunning train rides. This 10-hour round-trip includes a lunch break in Morretes.

For day three, consider taking a bus west to Vila Velha State Park, then return to the city in the evening for dinner at the exquisite Restaurante Manu.

Curitiba’s cutting-edge rapid-bus network has garnered attention from urban planners around the globe. Alf Ribeiro/Shutterstock

Is it easy to navigate Curitiba?

Curitiba’s Aeroporto Internacional Afonso Pena, located 18 km (11 miles) southeast of the city center, is a spacious and modern airport with regular flights to various cities across Brazil, as well as to Argentina and Chile.

The long-distance bus and train station is combined into a three-block complex known as the rodoferroviária, situated just southeast of downtown. Several private bus companies have ticket counters here for interstate and regional travel. (Traveling by bus in Brazil is safe, comfortable, and generally efficient.) The train station is located right behind the bus station, although the only regular service is the heritage train (the Serra Verde Express) to Morretes, which operates three times a week.

Curitiba is renowned globally for its widely studied and imitated rapid bus network operated by URBS. This innovative bus system features dedicated lanes and integrated station pods called tubos, allowing for quick entry and exit. You can experience the efficiency of this system by riding one of the double-accordion, 270-passenger buses—many of which now run on electric or biodiesel (Hibribuses)—for a flat fare of R$6 (US$1.60).

Amid the modern skyscrapers of Curitiba, the historic buildings of Largo da Ordem, including the Presbyterian church, truly stand out. Samuel Ericksen/Shutterstock

Must-see attractions in Curitiba

Enjoy the serenity of Jardim Botânico

Nestled away from the hustle and bustle of the city center, Curitiba’s botanical garden is a sprawling, flower-filled oasis featuring a tranquil lake and an elegant glass and metal greenhouse housing tropical plants. Visitors can take in a formal French-style garden before exploring a network of trails that meander through wooded areas. Pack a picnic, or stop by the garden’s quaint café for a snack. You’ll find it hard to leave this beautiful spot.

Explore the city’s heritage in Largo da Ordem

Curitiba’s colonial core features a charming network of pedestrian-only brick streets centered around Largo da Ordem, lined with a diverse array of restored buildings that now host trendy art galleries, pubs, and cafés. Highlights include the domed Presbyterian church and Casa Romário Martins, a museum located in the city’s oldest structure, showcasing the work of Cândido de Abreu, Curitiba’s first urban planner and mayor. On Sundays, the area transforms into a bustling art and artisan market with over 1000 stalls.

Created by its namesake, the Museu Oscar Niemeyer is an architectural wonder that must be experienced in person. Luis War/Shutterstock

Experience modernism at the Museu Oscar Niemeyer

Curitiba’s premier museum is a breathtaking modernist complex that truly must be seen to be believed. This unique structure was designed by the renowned architect known for many of the civic buildings in Brasília during the 1950s.

Since its opening in 2002, the museum has been marked by a striking eye-shaped tower that rises from an artificial pond, adorned with playful dancing figures in shadowy black. The focus here is primarily on visual arts and design, featuring rotating exhibitions that highlight the works of both Brazilian and international artists from 1900 onward. A concise yet informative permanent exhibition dedicated to Niemeyer and his contributions can be found within the tower's galleries.

Explore a vibrant culinary landscape

Curitiba offers a wonderfully diverse food scene. In addition to a wide array of excellent Brazilian restaurants (including many churrascarias), there is a strong representation of Asian and Italian cuisine. At the forefront of the gourmet scene is Manu, known for its nightly-changing tasting menus that emphasize local farm cooperatives and ingredients from the restaurant's own organic garden. Manu was honored with the Flor de Caña sustainable restaurant award in 2023, among other accolades.

Offering an exciting (if crowded) day trip from Curitiba, the Serra Verde Express traverses the Serra do Mar mountains three times a week. Chris Schmid/Getty Images

My top activity in Curitiba

Passenger trains are quite rare in Brazil, making a trip on the Serra Verde Express particularly intriguing. This line operates several times a week, winding through the Serra do Mar mountains from Curitiba to the charming culinary town of Morretes. It promotes itself as a heritage railway, featuring 1930s-style carriages complete with leather seats and polished wood interiors.

During my last train journey, I opted for a 'tourist' class ticket for the outbound trip but splurged on a 'boutique' class ticket in a more luxurious Imperial carriage for the return. The 70km (43-mile) ride emphasizes stunning scenery over speed, and there's a thrilling moment when the train crosses a high viaduct, creating the sensation of floating in mid-air.

What’s the budget like in Curitiba?

Brazil generally offers lower costs compared to North America and Europe. In Curitiba, where tourism is less prevalent than in Rio or São Paulo, you’ll find plenty of affordable accommodation options. It’s rare to spend more than US$100 per night for a decent double room, even at reputable hotel chains like Radisson or Grand Mercure.

The city's rapid bus system offers excellent value, charging a flat fare of R$6 for rides throughout the city.

• Mid-range hotel room for two: US$50–70

• Entry to Museu Oscar Niemeyer: US$6

• One-way ticket on the Serra Verde Express (tourist class): US$35

• Public transport fare: US$1.60

• Burger: US$10–12

• Dinner for two at a gourmet restaurant: US$60

• Coffee: US$4

• Bottle of craft beer: US$3

Located about 60 miles from Curitiba, the sandstone pillars of Vila Velha State Park make for a fantastic day trip. Shutterstock

Common questions about Curitiba

Is Curitiba a safe city?

Compared to other Brazilian cities, Curitiba is fairly safe, especially in the southern region. However, it’s wise to take usual precautions, like staying in well-lit areas downtown at night and avoiding showing signs of wealth.

What sustainability innovations has Curitiba implemented to set a benchmark?

Curitiba has introduced numerous innovations, including a comprehensive bus system, 48 urban parks, a solar pyramid built on a former landfill, diverse honey gardens, and an e-bike-focused bike-sharing program.

Are there any notable festivals in Curitiba?

Yes, particularly in the arts scene. A major theater festival, one of Brazil’s largest, takes place in March, while the Olhar de Cinema film festival occurs in June. An arts Biennial launches in September of odd years, and a popular jazz festival attracts visitors every December.

Are there any beaches close to Curitiba?

The closest surfing beaches are about a 90-minute drive east, near the small ferry port of Pontal do Sul. Even nicer beaches are located on Ilha do Miel, a quick boat ride from Pontal do Sul, perfect for an overnight or weekend escape from Curitiba.

What are some great day trips from Curitiba?

In addition to the Serra Verde Express, a fantastic day trip is to the unique landscapes of Parque Estadual de Vila Velha, located 93km (58 miles) to the west. This “stone city” in Paraná features 23 aretinhas (sandstone pillars) sculpted over millennia. The striking red formations, some resembling boots and bottles, create stunning contrasts against the blue sky and lush greenery.

Inside the park, visitors can explore a series of water-filled furnas (craters) formed by underground erosion.

Vila Velha features a great visitor center and has regular bus services from Curitiba that drop you near the park entrance; it's recommended to book tickets online in advance.