9 Essential Insights into Soul Food

With school out for the summer, it's the perfect moment to share some valuable insights into a cuisine that's often misunderstood and unfairly criticized. Here are nine things you should know about soul food.

1. What exactly is soul food?

While the term "soul food" is often used to describe all African American cooking, it actually refers to a specific style. Soul food originated in the rural areas of the Deep South, where millions of African Americans once lived before migrating to the North, Midwest, and West during "The Great Migration" (1910s–1970s). It's a fusion cuisine that blends West African, European, and American culinary traditions. Although it shares African roots, Creole cuisine from Louisiana and lowcountry cuisine from the coastal regions of Georgia and South Carolina are distinct.

2. Where did the term "soul food" originate?

While many believe the term "soul food" emerged in the 1960s, a time of growing Black cultural pride and expression, it had been circulating within African American communities since the 1950s. The word "soul" initially referred to the gospel-infused jazz music gaining popularity, and it quickly became a catch-all term for many facets of Black culture. First came "soul music," followed by "soul brother," "soul sister," and eventually, "soul food."

3. What does a typical soul food meal include?

A classic soul food meal often includes:

• Sides: black-eyed peas, candied yams (dark-fleshed sweet potatoes), macaroni and cheese, and stewed greens (cabbage, collard greens, kale, mustard, or turnip);
• Entree: chicken (fried or smothered), fried fish, or pork (smothered chop or "chitlins," which are pig intestines);
• Cornbread (a muffin, slice, square);
• Beverage: a red-colored drink (simply called "red drink");
• Dessert: banana pudding, peach cobbler, pound cake, or sweet potato pie.

Spicy Collard Greens

"If you enjoy greens, this recipe will be a hit. The combination of bacon and onions gives them a rich flavor. Add extra red pepper if you want more of a kick." —Ken Adams, recipe contributor.

Classic Southern Fried Chicken

"This Alabama recipe has been passed down through generations." —Cindy Garrick, recipe contributor.

Delicious Sweet Potato Pie

"A dear friend in Atlanta shared this recipe with me. It's been a long-time favorite, and everyone who tries it declares it the best they've ever had." —Cougaar, recipe contributor

Explore more: Celebrate Soul Food Month with our soul food recipes.

4. How do soul food and Southern food differ?

The distinction between soul food and Southern food can be confusing since the two share many ingredients and cooking techniques. However, the key difference lies in the intensity of flavor. Soul food is typically richer, saltier, spicier, and sweeter than traditional Southern fare. Historically, soul food also featured a wider variety of meats like ham hocks, oxtails, and turkey necks, long before the popular "nose-to-tail" cooking trend.

5. Are there various types of soul food?

Traditional soul food has given rise to three distinct sub-cuisines. The first is "Down Home Healthy", which lightens up the dishes by swapping lard for margarine or vegetable oils, using smoked turkey instead of pork, and opting for sugar substitutes. The second, and a complete contrast, is "Upscale Soul"—a style that embraces luxurious ingredients like duck fat, heirloom vegetables, and heritage meats. The third, and perhaps the most unexpected, is vegan soul food. Yes, you read that correctly—vegan. While one might think vegan soul food is contradictory, it's actually rooted in history. Enslaved African Americans predominantly ate a vegetarian diet, seasoning with small amounts of dried, salted, or smoked meat. Vegan soul food is not a break from tradition; it's a return to the roots of the cuisine.

6. Why is soul food often criticized?

Soul food faces criticism for two main reasons. First, there's the stereotype that it’s unhealthy, with some people claiming it requires a warning label, fearing the idea that eating it frequently could be fatal. This perception is fueled by images of greasy fried food and syrupy sweets. But consider what health experts recommend: dark leafy greens, fish, legumes, and sweet potatoes—all of which are staples in soul food. The key is in the preparation: meats can be baked instead of fried, and vegetables can be cooked without meat.

The second critique, often heard within the African American community, is that soul food shouldn't be celebrated because it’s considered "slave food" or "poverty food." This view is based on a misconception. Many of the foods we now associate with soul food were once luxury items or celebratory dishes. For instance, royal chefs prepared macaroni and cheese for King Richard II and Queen Elizabeth I, and sweet potato pie was a favorite of King Henry VII. Even chitterlings ("chitlins") were once considered a delicacy by the English and French elite. In the antebellum South, fried chicken was a rare treat, not the everyday fast food it is today.

7. Why should I dine at a soul food restaurant?

We're at a pivotal point where many of the soul food restaurant founders from the 1960s through the 1980s are either retiring or passing away. Unfortunately, very few of their children or employees are stepping up to continue their culinary legacy. Several factors contribute to this decline: the challenges of running a restaurant, the negative health perception of soul food, and the expectation that it should always be affordable and served in large portions. These combined factors are leading to the closure of many soul food establishments.

Soul food restaurants need your support now more than ever. But the most important reason to visit one is simple: the food is absolutely delicious.

8. Which cities boast the best soul food scenes?

In the South, Atlanta stands out as the best city for soul food, offering a rich variety of traditional, healthier options, upscale, and vegan soul food restaurants. Outside of the South, the top three cities for soul food (ranked) are Chicago, the San Francisco Bay Area, and New York City.

9. How can I start cooking soul food at home?

Preparing soul food might seem daunting, but most dishes are surprisingly simple once you understand the basic techniques. To help you get started, I've shared my personal recipe for a soul food staple: black-eyed peas. I also recommend these cookbooks, which will guide you on your journey to becoming a soul food enthusiast in the kitchen.

• "Soul Food: Classic Cuisine From the Deep South" by Sheila Ferguson
• "The Soul of Southern Cooking" by Kathy Starr
• "Sweets: Soul Food Desserts & Memories" by Patty Pinner
• "The Vegan Soul Kitchen: Fresh, Healthy and Creative African American Cuisine" by Bryant Terry
• "The Welcome Table: African American Heritage Cooking" by Jessica B. Harris

It’s time to let go of any fear or negativity surrounding this quintessential American cuisine. Soul food doesn’t need a health warning—it needs more appreciation and love!

Black-Eyed Peas

This recipe comes from my late mother, Johnetta Miller, and it’s one of the first dishes she taught me. While this is a specific recipe for black-eyed peas, it’s also my go-to method for preparing any vegetable in the traditional "soul food style." If you’d like to make it into a classic "Hoppin' John," simply cook some rice separately, combine the two, and enjoy.

Serves 8 people

Ingredients

• 1 pound of dried black-eyed or other field peas
• 1 smoked ham hock or smoked turkey wing (about 8 ounces)
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• Crushed red pepper flakes, to taste
• Salt, to taste

Instructions

1. Rinse the black-eyed peas and sort through them to remove any debris or broken peas. Place the peas in a large saucepan and cover with 2 inches of cold water. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and let sit for 1 hour. Alternatively, you can soak the peas overnight by placing them in a large bowl, covering with cold water, and letting them rest at room temperature.
2. While the peas soak, prepare the stock by placing the ham hock or turkey wing in another large saucepan. Cover with 2 inches of water, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 1 hour until the stock is rich and flavorful. Discard the ham hock or turkey wing once the stock is ready.
3. Drain the peas and add them to the prepared stock, making sure they’re fully submerged. Stir in the onion and red pepper flakes.
4. Simmer the peas until they are almost tender, which should take around 30 minutes. Add salt and continue cooking until the peas are soft and flavorful, about 10 more minutes.
5. Serve the peas hot.
6. If you like, you can shred the meat from the ham hock or turkey wing and stir it into the peas before serving.

Adrian Miller is an award-winning author, having received the prestigious James Beard Award. As a culinary historian and certified barbecue judge, he has traveled across the country, sharing his expertise on topics such as Black chefs in the White House, the history of chicken and waffles, the significance of hot sauce, kosher soul food, red drinks, soda pop, and of course, soul food itself.

Explore More from Adrian Miller:

• Gospel Bird: The Sacred Roots of Fried Chicken
• Catfish: How to Cook It and Why It's Important to Soul Food Culture
• How Black-eyed Peas Became Soul Food's Lucky Bean
• 6 Black Cooks and Writers Pay Tribute to the Culinary Heroes Who Shaped Their Food Journeys