4 Days in Rome: Your Guide to an Unforgettable Long Weekend in the Eternal City

Baroque churches adorned with artistic treasures, bubbling fountains, clinking cocktail glasses on rooftop terraces, and the aroma of freshly baked pizza bianca—these are just a few of the experiences awaiting you in Rome. Spend your mornings exploring ancient ruins, enjoy spaghetti carbonara at a trattoria for lunch, and unwind with creative cocktails at one of the city's trendiest bars in the evening. With a wave of stylish new hotels and eateries, along with reopened archaeological sites, Rome is undeniably having a moment. After nearly five years of living here and over a decade of previous visits, I’ve discovered the best of both the old and new. This Thursday-to-Sunday itinerary shares my insider tips along with insights from local experts.

Thursday: Start your adventure with a Vespa tour and explore Trastevere

Whenever my friends and family visit Rome, I always recommend a Vespa tour with Scooteroma, and they all rave about the experience. Hop on for a three-hour ride and feel the breeze in your hair while one of their professional driver-guides showcases the city's highlights. The classic tour is ideal for first-timers, but they also offer themed options like street art, cinema, and food tours.

The tour wraps up just in time for lunch, so ask your guide to drop you off in Trastevere, one of the most quintessential Roman neighborhoods. Once a working-class area, it has transformed over the years while retaining its charm with narrow, ivy-covered cobblestone streets and laundry hanging from apartment windows. Maria Pasquale, an award-winning Italian Australian journalist and author of Eternal City: Recipes & Stories from Rome, has lived here for over a decade. For a quick bite, she recommends Supplì, a take-out spot known for “true Roman street fare.” In addition to supplì (fried rice balls with a crispy breadcrumb coating), she suggests the marinara pizza, which she describes as “thin, crispy, and super saucy, with a perfect blend of garlic, herbs, and tomato.” Carry your meal a few blocks to Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere and enjoy it on the steps of the fountain, the neighborhood's living room where locals and tourists mingle, soak up the sun, and sometimes smoke a cigarette amid bustling sidewalk cafés.

Afterward, if you're in need of a caffeine boost, stop by Bar San Calisto, a genuine no-frills establishment where you might see a group of elderly men playing cards or a young musician sipping a beer in the sun. Join the locals for a quick espresso at the bar or sit at the outdoor tables for some excellent people-watching. From there, it's just a 10-minute walk to Villa Farnesina, one of Rome’s hidden gems. Built for wealthy banker Agostino Chigi to celebrate his marriage, the villa features stunning ceiling frescoes by Raphael, painted in 1518, which illustrate the union of Cupid and Psyche.

For dinner, both Giorgia Tozzi, general manager of Soho House Rome, and Maria Pasquale recommend Pianostrada, which has recently relocated from its original spot near the Jewish Ghetto to Via della Luce in Trastevere. “Experience a culinary revolution at Pianostrada, a local favorite led by a visionary team of women,” says Pasquale. The four partners—self-taught chef Paola Colucci, her daughters Flaminia and Alice Spognetta, and their friend Chiara Magliocchetti—are returning to their roots, as Pianostrada first opened as a gourmet street food venue in Trastevere in 2014. “From tempura-fried zucchini flowers to artisanal focaccia topped with prosciutto and figs, every dish is a delightful blend of innovation and tradition,” Pasquale adds.

Friday: Immerse yourself in Rome’s baroque beauty in the historic center

Today, you'll embark on a walking tour to explore Rome's iconic landmarks and piazzas. Begin your day at the Trevi Fountain, which tends to draw the largest crowds as the day progresses. From there, it's just a 10-minute stroll to the Pantheon, renowned as Rome’s most well-preserved ancient structure due to its conversion into a Catholic church in 609 C.E. If you're in the mood for breakfast, swing by Caffè Tazza d’Oro around the corner for a delightful cappuccino.

Continue your walk westward to Piazza Navona, celebrated as the city's most stunning baroque square, where you can marvel at Bernini’s grand Fountain of the Four Rivers. The surrounding streets are filled with shops, restaurants, cafés, and hidden gems like Palazzo Altemps, part of the Museo Nazionale Romano, housed within a noble palace adorned with exquisite 16th-century grotesque frescoes (inspired by ancient Roman grotto decorations). Make sure to pop in if time allows!

Venture north along Via della Scrofa, which transitions into Via di Ripetta, leading you to the upscale neighborhood near the Spanish Steps, where high-end boutiques compete for shoppers' attention. Turn onto Via Tomacelli, then Via dei Condotti, and in just a few minutes, you’ll reach Piazza di Spagna. At the base of the steps, Bernini’s boat-shaped fountain is another stunning masterpiece worth admiring before focusing on the steps themselves.

Head up Via del Babuino and stroll north toward Piazza del Popolo, the expansive circular square featuring an Egyptian obelisk flanked by sphinxes that spout water. Once the northern entrance to Rome, it's a prime location for people-watching, as stylish locals traverse the square en route to the lively Via del Corso. Grab a table at Canova, a favorite haunt of the legendary filmmaker Federico Fellini, for a salad or panino, or treat yourself to a plate of ravioli cacio e pepe at the elegant Hotel de Russie, frequented by contemporary movie stars and VIPs.

In the afternoon, venture into Villa Borghese—the lush, heart-shaped park just uphill from Piazza del Popolo. Within the park, you’ll discover a small lake with rowboats, a replica of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, and several museums, including the stunning Galleria Borghese (be sure to reserve in advance, as timed tickets are necessary). After exploring, make your way to the Pincio Terrace to enjoy a breathtaking sunset over the city.

Feeling hungry for dinner? Catch the metro at the Flaminio stop and ride it to Re di Roma to sample elevated Roman classics at Santo Palato, run by the talented young chef Sarah Cicolini. “This trattoria with a twist is where I go for my favorite carbonara in Rome,” shares Zoe Shapiro, founder of Stellavision Travel, a boutique feminist travel company offering size-inclusive tours in Italy. “The menu shifts daily based on fresh, seasonal ingredients, but the highlights—including carbonara and oxtail meatball with peanut sauce and cacao—remain favorites, complemented by a wine list that showcases the next generation of Italian winemakers,” says Shapiro.

Saturday: Discover the treasures of the Vatican

To experience the Vatican Museums without the crowds, opt for an exclusive 6 a.m. tour led by the key keeper. If that's not an option, aim to arrive when the museum opens at 8 a.m. Housing some of humanity's greatest artistic achievements, the Vatican Museums consist of 24 distinct museums, along with various galleries and chapels. While it's impossible to see everything in one day, focusing on the highlights (such as the Sistine Chapel, Raphael Rooms, Statues Courtyard, and Gallery of Maps) will allow you to finish in time for lunch.

Many visitors head straight to Bonci Pizzarium, renowned for being the best spot for pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) in Rome. However, pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci also operates an eponymous bakery nearby that remains a bit of a hidden gem. While it features fewer topping options, it uses the same beloved recipe.

In the afternoon, take some time to explore Prati, the neighborhood next to the Vatican. Established in the early 20th century, it may lack the cobblestone allure of the historic center, but it’s a vibrant area for business and shopping where locals gather. The bustling Via Cola di Rienzo serves as the main street, featuring mid-range stores like Benetton for clothing, Geox for footwear, Castroni for gourmet treats, and the department store Coin. In Prati, Tozzi suggests visiting Casa Balla, the former residence of futurist artist Giacomo Balla (tours require advance booking).

Sunday: Trace the paths of Rome’s ancient emperors

Now that you know Romans kick off their day with breakfast at a bar, don't miss trying a maritozzo, the most traditional Roman pastry, alongside the usual cornetti. Stop by the historic Pasticceria Regoli near Piazza Vittorio, nestled in one of the city’s most vibrant ethnic neighborhoods, where many Asian immigrants have opened shops and eateries. At the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino, you'll discover imports from the Middle East, Africa, Asia, South America, and beyond. After enjoying your pastry, it’s a short walk to the Colosseum. Starting in 2024, visitors can access the attic level for breathtaking views and insights into the Colosseum’s water management system (be sure to book a ticket that includes this in advance). This same ticket also allows entry to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, which you should allocate about half a day to explore.

Take a break at La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, a family-owned restaurant located at the edge of Monti, a delightful neighborhood just above the Forum. Sample one of the quartet of Roman pastas (carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and gricia) or enjoy a unique twist, such as their seasonal fruit variation on la gricia.

For a different perspective on Roman history, consider joining Stellavision’s Women and Secrets of Ancient Rome tour. “This walking tour highlights the Jewish Ghetto, Capitoline Hill, and the Forum, focusing on stories often overlooked by traditional tours while bringing important historical figures back into the spotlight,” says Shapiro. Alternatively, visit Largo di Torre Argentina (the site of Julius Caesar's assassination), which is now accessible thanks to newly constructed walkways.

If you're in the mood to indulge in an exquisite aperitivo, reserve a table at the Court, one of the most innovative cocktail bars in the city, featuring direct views of the Colosseum. Afterward, grab a taxi to the trendy San Lorenzo district to try a restaurant recommended by Tozzi and Shapiro. “Mazzo, which closed five years ago, has recently reopened in a new spot, offering a menu that revitalizes classic Roman ingredients while paying tribute to the city’s ‘cucina povera’ heritage,” Shapiro explains.

Where to stay

Soho House Rome serves as a creative hub in the vibrant, emerging neighborhood of San Lorenzo, featuring a rooftop pool, an outpost of Cecconi’s, a screening room, and a gym offering yoga and Pilates classes. Guests who book accommodations can enjoy access to the private club's amenities.

For a classic option, consider staying at Hotel de Russie, a Rocco Forte Hotel, which houses the aforementioned Le Jardin de Russie restaurant in its ‘secret garden’ and the stylish Stravinskij Bar, which is set to unveil a makeover this spring.

Alternatively, explore these 15 hotels we adore in Rome, including Hotel de la Ville (sister property to Hotel de Russie) and newcomers like the Rome Edition or Six Senses Rome.