4 Hotels, 4 Unique Adventures in the Arabian Desert

Viewed from above, AlUla—an oasis nestled in northwest Saudi Arabia and a historic stop on an ancient incense route—resembles a vast expanse of rust-colored sand, cliffs, and canyons, threaded by a line of palm groves. This striking desert landscape could easily be mistaken for the red rocks of Utah and Arizona or the otherworldly Wadi Rum in Jordan. Yet, nestled in the shadows of the sandstone cliffs are shiny Airstream trailers, surrounded by pizza and ice cream trucks, along with tents inspired by Bedouin culture. This blend of history and modernity, East and West, greets many international visitors on their journey to Saudi Arabia.

As one of the most developed gateways to Saudi tourism, which began issuing leisure-travel visas in 2019, AlUla provides a pathway into the once-isolated kingdom. I had the opportunity to explore three hotels, including the mentioned Airstream village, each offering a distinct way to connect with nature in Saudi Arabia.

Habitas AlUla

During my visit to AlUla in November 2022, I overheard travelers from Guadalajara, Dubai, Germany, and even Florida sharing their reasons for visiting the oasis. Their motivations ranged from a honeymoon and anniversary celebration to attending a Desert X art exhibit and a John Legend concert at the Maraya concert hall. These guests were staying at Habitas AlUla, a desert retreat featuring 96 prefabricated villas crafted in Mexico by the Tulum-based Habitas hospitality group to minimize construction impact, then transported to the Ashar Valley. Renowned for its eco-friendly design and low-impact building methods, Habitas incorporates organic materials that harmonize with their environment. The guest accommodations are constructed from bamboo, canvas, and responsibly sourced hardwood, with no plastic containers in sight— even the key cards are made of bamboo.

Social and cultural interaction plays a significant role in the Habitas experience. Upon arrival, regardless of the time, a welcoming ceremony is held. The AlUla site embraces Saudi customs, burning incense as one would for guests at a wedding; here, it symbolizes the transition from one phase to another. I was invited to take a deep breath, find my balance, and be fully present. As I was welcomed into the family, a host placed a bracelet on my wrist and said, “We are now brothers and sisters. Welcome home.”

“Home” is a cozy tented suite featuring a king-size bed, both indoor and outdoor showers, a living room, and a patio perfect for relaxing and stargazing. The Celestial villas even come with telescopes, although, unfortunately, without a user manual. Each villa includes electric bikes, essential for navigating the valley since the rooms are spread out and a steep walk is needed to reach the co-ed pool, the contemporary Middle Eastern restaurant, Tama (don’t miss the beetroot hummus), and the wellness center and spa. You can request golf-cart shuttles ahead of time, but honestly, I preferred the electric bike every time, day or night. Another exciting feature? The trampolines-as-art set up during Desert X, now open around the clock for a quick, exhilarating bounce in the desert of this multifaceted country.

Banyan Tree AlUla

In the adjacent canyon, a Banyan Tree emerged in late 2022, reinforcing AlUla's status as an ultra-luxury wellness haven. (Three Aman resorts are also on the horizon.) Forty-seven villas—ranging from one to three bedrooms (up to 2,500 square feet!)—are spread across nearly two miles of the valley, many featuring private pools. Guests can easily traverse the area with bikes, scooters, and buggies-on-call. One corner boasts a guests-only pool with stunning valley views, a spa offering exceptional traditional Thai massages, and the all-day dining venue, Harrat, serving Middle Eastern cuisine along with a fantastic latte for your cravings. On the opposite side is Saffron, the signature Banyan Tree Thai restaurant led by chef Tina, who moved from Southeast Asia to Saudi Arabia for its launch. Guadalajara native Ricardo Lujan oversees both restaurants as executive chef, while the Parisian design firm AW² crafted the resort’s aesthetic. This unique blend of French, Mexican, Thai, Indonesian, and Saudi hospitality is complemented by art and crafts from Saudi artists throughout the property. Customized experiences, like in-villa barbecues and hot air balloon rides, are also a hallmark of this Banyan Tree, along with the remarkable prehistoric rock art found on-site. Its popularity is evident: during my visit, the resort was fully booked, hosting a gathering of Saudi Ministry members.

Caravan by Habitas AlUla

Habitas AlUla opened in November 2021 and marked its one-year anniversary with a complete sell-out. Its sibling property, Caravan by Habitas, launched in 2022 as a more budget-friendly option. The 22 Airstreams feature either two twin beds or a queen bed, along with a shower, separate bathroom, dining area, and some thoughtful touches (I appreciated finding the novel The Alchemist waiting at my bedside). A shaded outdoor deck effectively extends your living space, although it can get quite hot out there even in winter. The Airstreams are equipped with powerful air conditioning to keep the retro “silver bullets” cool, though this feels less sustainable. RV parks are common in AlUla, and before Habitas came, there was an Airstream RV park near Elephant Rock, an iconic rock formation where Saudis began experimenting with glamping during the pandemic.

Habitas elevates the experience with a variety of food trucks offering pizza, ice cream, waffles, acai bowls, and more, along with nighttime DJ performances and movie screenings projected onto the stunning sandstone cliffs. Guests at Caravan also enjoy full access to all the amenities at the larger Habitas next door; just ask at the front desk for a quick five-minute car ride over.

Dar Tantora The House Hotel

Winding through enchanting pathways that evoke another era, a once-derelict maze of mud-brick homes in Old Town has been transformed into AlUla’s latest luxury hotel. Each of the 30 dars (houses) boasts its own character: some are studios, while others feature one or two bedrooms with outdoor terraces. All are spacious and tastefully adorned with vibrant textiles, local artwork, and antique mirrors and furniture sourced from Egypt, India, and Saudi Arabia.

In some rooms, original wall murals were revealed during restoration and thoughtfully restored to address smoke damage, offering a charming glimpse into history. Armed with a traditional room key and the opportunity to ascend some very historic stairs, guests will enjoy a luxurious, eco-friendly experience. To uphold its sustainability pledge, Dar Tantora limits electricity; bathroom lights and outlets for charging devices are available, but ceiling fans take the place of air conditioning, while candlelight and oil lamps light up rooms and corridors at night.

The aim is to keep Dar Tantora operational year-round, despite desert temperatures soaring to 105 degrees in August. If the original residents could endure, so can visitors—especially with access to a pool deck offering mocktails, a spa and gym featuring water-powered treadmills, and an on-site restaurant serving modern takes on traditional Saudi cuisine, guided by acclaimed chef Jaume Puigdengolas. For a special experience, visit in January or February for the Citrus Festival, with the palm-filled oasis just across the street. Cooler weather makes for a perfect time to enjoy the outdoor cigar lounge and fireplace.

Know before you go

• Please review these travel tips and etiquette—including dress codes and behavior—thoroughly before planning your trip to Saudi Arabia.

• Visitors from 49 countries, including the United States, can obtain an eVisa via the Visit Saudi website.

• Saudia Airlines, flydubai, and flynas operate flights to and from AlUla’s International Airport (ULH), located just 30 minutes from the city center. Common transfer points include Jeddah, Riyadh, Dubai, and Doha.
  
• Note: Alcohol is not permitted in Saudi Arabia, but there is a vibrant mocktail culture to enjoy.