A Beginner's Guide to Albania

Albania is currently more popular with travelers than ever before. Joel Balsam, author of the Albania section in the new Western Balkans guidebook, shares his top insights for navigating this unique country.

Am I the only one noticing that everyone seems to be discussing travel to Albania? This buzz has been growing for a few years, and it’s clear why.

With TikTok-favored Adriatic beaches featuring crystal-clear waters along the southwestern coast, the Albanian Alps offering exceptional hiking, stunning ancient architecture, and a cost of living that’s significantly lower than that of neighboring Croatia, Greece, and Italy, it’s no wonder Albania is gaining attention.

However, despite all the reasons to visit Albania right now, some critics remain. They mistakenly equate the actions of Albanian gangs in other parts of Europe with the general populace. In reality, the locals you’ll meet in Albania are honest, friendly, and welcoming.

Here’s what you need to know for your first visit to Albania.

When is the best time to visit Albania?

With Europe’s love for lazy beach getaways and budget flights, Albania’s prime beaches—Ksamil and Saranda—become quite crowded from June to September. For a more tranquil experience, consider going in May, although the sea will be quite chilly. The optimal time to visit is likely between September and December, when the weather remains delightful and the crowds are thinner.

If you’re traveling in winter, focus on Tirana, the capital, where you can enjoy the warmth of its cozy restaurants and bars like Komiteti, known for its variety of rakija (fruit brandy). Many attractions in other parts of the country tend to close during the winter months.

How long should I stay in Albania?

For a quick getaway, consider flying to Corfu in Greece and then taking the ferry to Saranda to explore the beautiful Albanian Riviera. Alternatively, arrive in Tirana to savor the capital’s amazing cuisine and historical landmarks.

If you're up for a road trip, you can visit Albania's highlights like Tirana, a coastal beach, and either Berat or Gjirokastra within a week. Extend your trip if you plan to hike in the Accursed Mountains or use public transport, as Albanian buses can be notoriously unreliable and slow.

Is getting around Albania easy?

Tirana International Airport serves as Albania's sole international transport hub. However, for those looking to relax on the southwestern beaches, flying into Corfu and taking a quick ferry ride is the better option.

Navigating within Albania can be quite difficult. The outdated Communist-era furgon shared minibuses that connect towns are more suited for a museum than for travel; they lack reliable schedules and frequently break down.

Driving offers a more flexible way to explore, but comes with its own set of challenges. Many drivers in Albania are known for their aggressive behavior and fast cars, often Volkswagens or Mercedes. Personally, I find driving on the main highways to be manageable, but it's best to avoid country roads, which can be poorly maintained.

Renting a car can be a hassle as well; international rental companies tend to charge high rates and only have offices at Tirana airport. Local rental agencies are more affordable and can be found just outside the airport, but they typically require cash or bank transfers, which means you might lose out on credit card insurance protections.

Must-see attractions in Albania

Experience the stunning Albanian coastline

You might have spotted it on Instagram—now’s your chance to dive into Albania’s stunning beaches. While Ksamil, the country’s top beach destination, is undeniably beautiful, it tends to be pricier and incredibly crowded in the summer, leaving little room for a beach towel. Head further up the coast to discover more secluded spots near Himara and Dhërmi, or embark on a boat tour to reach hidden beaches that cars can’t access.

If you find yourself in Ksamil, make sure to visit Butrint, an awe-inspiring site showcasing Greek and Roman heritage.

Explore the vibrant bar scene in Tirana's Blloku district

During Albania’s communist period from 1946 to 1991, Blloku in Tirana was off-limits to the public, serving as a private enclave for party officials. After the democratic revolution dismantled the regime, Blloku opened up, transforming into a trendy hotspot. The area is now filled with stylish cafes and bars adorned with lush terraces, plus a variety of lively clubs. My top pick is Radio Bar.

Discover the 'museum towns' of Berat and Gjirokastra

For stunning architecture, visit Albania’s UNESCO-listed “museum towns.” In Berat, check out the castle perched on the hill and meander through its charming stone alleyways. The city’s unique windows are a must-see, especially from the viewpoint across the Osum River.

Gjirokastra boasts equally impressive architecture. Ascend the hill to admire ancient houses topped with heavy stone roofs and the magnificent castle. Below the town, explore communist-era bunkers, including a large one near the town hall.

What I love most about Albania

What truly captivated me in Albania is the mountainous north, beginning with Shkodra. This artsy student city stands out as one of the most bike-friendly spots I’ve encountered in Eastern Europe, serving as a perfect base for exploring nearby mountains.

In just three days, you can take a ferry to Valbona, hike a section of the Peaks of the Balkans trail connecting Albania with Kosovo and Montenegro, and swim in the stunning cobalt waters of the “blue eye” ponds in Theth. Accommodations in Shkodra can help arrange your itinerary.

How much should I budget for a trip to Albania?

In Albania, card payments are accepted in very few places. You can withdraw local currency, lek, from ATMs, which may incur high transaction fees, or exchange cash at local money changers. As of now, €1 is approximately 100 lekë.

• Hostel dormitory: 1500 lekë

• Basic double room: 5000 lekë per night

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): 5000 lekë per night

• Bus ticket in Tirana: 40 lekë

• Inter-city bus fare: prices vary; a journey from Saranda to Tirana costs around 1600 lekë

• Coffee: 100 to 200 lekë

• Sandwich: 600 lekë

• Dinner for two: 2000 lekë

• Beer/pint at a bar: 300 lekë

Is it safe to travel in Albania?

Despite common perceptions, Albania is generally safe. Incidents of pickpocketing are rare, and the organized crime linked to Albania in other parts of Europe is unlikely to affect the average traveler’s experience.

Is Albania a religious country?

The majority of Albanians are Muslim, but you won't often see traditional attire worn in public. Instead, you’ll encounter numerous mosques alongside many churches.

While Albania may seem quite secular, it's advisable to dress modestly outside of Tirana and its beaches. If visiting a prominent mosque, extra clothing is usually provided for modesty.

Should you visit Kosovo during your stay in Albania?

Visiting Kosovo, which borders Albania to the east, is straightforward, and border guards typically don't check your passport. The two nations share strong ties, with most residents identifying as ethnic Albanian, stemming from border divisions established by Western European powers.

In Kosovo, you’ll discover beautiful mountain trails and the historic charm of Prizren, known for its stunning places of worship and castles. Don’t miss the rapidly developing Pristina, which increasingly resembles a Western European city.