A beginner's guide to Hokkaidō, Japan

Hokkaidō, Japan’s northernmost island, is renowned worldwide as a premier ski and snowboard destination, famous for its exceptional powder snow.

The region’s breathtaking natural beauty is the primary draw for visitors; in addition to winter sports, the warmer months offer thrilling hikes, cycling adventures, camping trips, or simply a chance to unwind and enjoy the stunning scenery.

Traveling in Hokkaidō is a unique experience compared to other parts of Japan: it’s more focused on nature than urban life, with attractions often spread far apart. This makes it an ideal destination for a road trip; otherwise, it's wise to concentrate on a specific area to avoid spending most of your time traveling. Use this guide to plan the ultimate trip to Hokkaidō with essential tips for first-time visitors.

When is the ideal time to visit Hokkaidō?

The best time to visit largely depends on your activities and destinations. For skiing and snowboarding, January and February are peak months (although many resorts remain open well into spring). The renowned Sapporo Snow Festival also takes place in February, so be sure to plan ahead and book accommodations early during this busy season.

While winter sees the highest influx of international travelers, summer is peak time for Japanese tourists. July, August, and September are perfect for hiking, camping, and cycling within the stunning national parks. Summers in Hokkaidō are pleasantly mild compared to the hot, humid conditions found elsewhere in Japan, and typhoons rarely reach this far north (though they can disrupt flights from other regions).

Keep in mind that autumn and winter arrive early in Hokkaidō. Snow can begin falling as early as September in the mountains, marking the end of the green season: trails and seasonal accommodations close, as do many roads. By November, snow may be falling in Sapporo, bringing colder temperatures that persist until around April. Higher elevations start to thaw in May, but mountain peaks might still hold onto their snow into early summer.

How much time should you spend in Hokkaidō?

Given its vastness, Hokkaidō truly benefits from extended stays. If you're aiming to ski or snowboard, you'll want to stay as long as your budget allows. With just a few days, it's best to focus on a single resort; however, with a week at your disposal, you could explore two resorts for varied experiences or dedicate a couple of days to Hokkaidō's capital, Sapporo.

It's difficult to envision a trip to Hokkaidō lasting less than three days, unless you confine your visit to Sapporo or Hakodate at the island's southern tip. With three to four days, you could combine visits to Hakodate, Sapporo, and the easily accessible Shikotsu-Tōya National Park, which is one of Hokkaidō's six national parks. Alternatively, consider flying to one of the island's regional airports to reach more remote parks, such as the rugged Shiretoko National Park, and experience the great outdoors for a few days.

If you have around seven or eight days, your travel plans can encompass multiple highlights; you can either cover a lot of ground or delve deep into a specific region. With a two-week stay, you'll have the chance to truly immerse yourself in the island's intriguing geography and rich history, as well as visit some hidden gems, such as the islands within Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park located in Hokkaidō's northernmost area.

Is it straightforward to access and navigate Hokkaidō?

Getting to Hokkaidō is simple, thanks to New Chitose Airport, which offers international flights to various Asian cities; it also has regular daily services to Tokyo's Narita and Haneda airports, as well as Kansai International Airport serving Osaka and Kyoto, along with connections to other regional airports in Japan. Direct trains link the airport to Sapporo, the island's main transport center, in less than 45 minutes.

You can also take the shinkansen – Japan's famous bullet train – from Tokyo to Hakodate; this trip, which passes through the often-ignored Tōhoku region, lasts about four hours. The shinkansen doesn't extend beyond Hakodate (yet), but you can continue your journey to Sapporo via a limited express train, which is the next fastest option. Sapporo itself is easy to navigate; it's compact and equipped with subway and bus systems.

Limited express trains connect most of Hokkaidō's key cities, and with a mix of these and local trains or buses, you can reach nearly all destinations you'd like to visit – including campgrounds, trailheads, and ski resorts – entirely using public transport. Rail passes, such as the Japan Rail Pass and the Hokkaido Rail Pass, can make traveling around the island more budget-friendly.

Having a car certainly enhances your travel flexibility; you can easily reserve a rental online for pickup at New Chitose Airport, provided you have the necessary documentation.

Must-see activities in Hokkaidō

Niseko United is the resort that established Hokkaidō's reputation as a premier skiing and snowboarding locale. It’s the largest, comprising four interconnected resorts, and boasts the most facilities, including a vibrant après-ski scene, along with consistently excellent powder. Recently, adventurers have started exploring lesser-known resorts like Rurutsu and Furano, or opting for backcountry tours in Daisetsuzan National Park. If you're short on time, Sapporo Teine, a popular local resort just 30 minutes from the city, is an unbeatable choice.

The peaks of Daisetsuzan, known as 'playground of the gods' in the Ainu language, can be traversed on foot during summer. Together with Shiretoko, it's one of the top national parks for multi-day hikes. Nearby Shikotsu-Tōya National Park features caldera lakes and hot spring resorts, while the new National Ainu Museum can be found in Shiraoi.

While many visit Hokkaidō to escape urban life, Sapporo – Japan's fifth-largest city – offers a fantastic spot to explore, with ample dining and shopping options, plus attractions like a park designed by sculptor Isamu Noguchi. The historic port city of Hakodate boasts unique charms, including a morning market that rivals Tsukiji in Tokyo.

My top activity in Hokkaidō

This might sound very American, but my favorite pastime in Hokkaidō is driving. While driving in Tokyo, or really anywhere else in Japan, can be stressful, Hokkaidō’s expansive roads through vast landscapes allow for an American-style road trip – windows down, music blasting. Many motorcyclists from across Japan flock to Hokkaidō for this reason as well.

I've been lucky to have some amazing meals in Hokkaidō – largely thanks to my work on Dinogo Planet's From the Source, along with the dedicated team behind it. I often reminisce about the incredible meals (and people!) from that research trip. While I don't want to highlight just one place, Menya Saimi and Daruma Honten in Sapporo, as well as Kikuya Shokudō in Hakodate's morning market, are among the easiest to recommend.

How much should I budget for Hokkaidō?

On one side, Hokkaidō can be a prime budget destination in Japan: during summer, there are campgrounds available, including free options. Some adventurous travelers cycle around various parts of Hokkaidō, and those on two wheels (cyclists and motorcyclists) can find affordable lodging in 'rider houses,' where a shared room with a futon typically costs no more than ¥1000. Laundry can be conveniently done at one of the island's numerous public hot springs.

Peak snow season presents a different scenario: resort areas like Niseko primarily feature upscale accommodations, with room rates comparable to those at other international resorts. While more affordable options do exist, they require some searching and booking well in advance. However, lift tickets are generally regarded as a good deal; a one-day all-mountain pass for Niseko United for the upcoming season is priced at ¥9500 – significantly cheaper than passes at North American resorts, for instance.

Otherwise, costs are quite comparable to other regions in the country.

• Capsule hotel: ¥8000

• Standard room for two: ¥25,000

• Self-catering chalet: ¥40,000

• Train fare from the airport to Sapporo: ¥1150

• Bus fare from the airport to Niseko: ¥3000

• Coffee: ¥500

• Ramen in town: ¥1000

• Ramen on the slopes: ¥1600

• Beer: ¥800

What safety precautions should I take while visiting Hokkaidō?

Winters in Hokkaidō can be extreme. In January and February, temperatures often stay below freezing, and chilly winds from Siberia deliver heavy, soft snow. While this creates great skiing and snowboarding conditions, it also leads to hazardous roads and off-piste terrain; exercise caution and consider joining a guided tour if you have adventurous plans. Even in the peak of summer, mountain temperatures can drop, so be sure to pack wisely.

It’s also essential to learn about bears. Although encounters are rare, higuma (brown bear) attacks can happen in Hokkaidō, and hikers often attach bells to their packs to deter them. National park information centers are excellent resources—make sure to visit one before heading out on a hike.

What should I bring for my trip to Hokkaidō?

All major ski resorts offer competitively priced equipment rental packages, so you won’t need to bring your own gear to hit the slopes in Hokkaidō. You can even rent a complete snow outfit, although size availability may vary. Some campgrounds also provide gear rentals, including tents, sleeping bags, and cooking equipment, but you might need some Japanese language skills to navigate this. In Sapporo and Niseko, you'll find shops selling outdoor gear and apparel, with Montbell being a well-known Japanese outdoor brand.