A Coastal Adventure in Portugal, Enhanced by Wine and Afrobeats

It feels so much like home. This thought crossed my mind numerous times during my trip to Portugal in 2019. The closeness of Lisbon to the coast, along with its lively city center and steep hills, reminded me of San Francisco. The city’s 25 de Abril Bridge was even designed by the same architect who built the Golden Gate Bridge. North of Lisbon, Porto’s outdoor restaurants along the Douro River brought back memories of my visit to California’s Central Coast, where fresh seafood and scenic water views also create the perfect afternoon.

While these similarities intrigued me, the cities of Portugal—from the beachside towns in the sun-soaked Algarve to the terraced vineyards on the cliffs of the Douro Valley in the north—offer unique experiences filled with new discoveries at every turn. Recently, I returned to Portugal, starting in the Algarve before heading to two of my favorite cities: Lisbon and Porto. Here’s how I planned a memorable journey filled with coastal scenery, urban exploration, and delightful wines.

Riding Waves and Enjoying Beats in the Algarve

My first encounter with Portugal’s southernmost region, the Algarve, was during a weekend study abroad trip from nearby Spain. It was a whirlwind experience, mainly filled with bar hopping and karaoke, so I was eager to return this time with a greater sense of maturity and curiosity. A 2.5-hour drive from Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport brought me to Porches, a quaint coastal town home to around 2,000 residents. Porches boasts proximity to various beaches, cafés, and a talented artisan community known for its exquisite handmade tiles at Porches Pottery.

I settled into the luxurious 170-room Vila Vita Parc, which sits atop a cliff with stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. Spanning 54 tropical acres, the resort features six bars and 11 restaurants, including Ocean—a farm- and sea-to-table eatery boasting two Michelin stars. Guests can enjoy three swimming pools, a spa with 14 treatment rooms, a newly added multi-sports field, a pitch and putt, a driving range, and an indoor gym. The recently unveiled Masterpiece Collection includes five exclusive villas that provide ultimate privacy, butler service, private pools, and breathtaking views of the deep blue ocean. While I typically shy away from sprawling resorts that resemble small cities, Vila Vita successfully creates an oasis with personalized service and a genuine connection to its environment, showcased by its whitewashed Moorish architecture and lounge chairs positioned to highlight the surrounding ocean and landscape.

After enjoying a poolside lunch of garlic- and wine-infused mussels—a true Portuguese delight—I descended a series of wooden steps between two cliffs that led me to the resort’s secluded golden-sand beach for a few hours. That evening, I dined at Adega restaurant, savoring comforting regional dishes, including a hearty soup filled with spicy sausage and vegetables, which made for a delightful first night in Porches. The following day, a quick 10-minute cab ride unveiled one of the most stunning beaches I’ve ever encountered: Praia da Marinha. From above, golden rock formations emerged from the bronze-colored sand, cradled by a turquoise sea. Sunbathers, families, and couples staked their claim on the beach, eagerly capturing photos next to the impressive rock formations. It was a day of relaxation and wonder, capping off my brief visit to Porches perfectly.

My next destination was another lively coastal town, partly energized by the arrival of the world’s largest Afrobeats festival. For three exhilarating days, Afro Nation transformed the expansive Praia de Rocha beach in Portimão, featuring two stages and attracting attendees from across the globe, all digging their toes into the sand and dancing to the beats of Burna Boy, WizKid, Megan Thee Stallion, Rema, Beanie Man, and others. It was the best music festival I’ve ever attended, not just for the chance to see my favorite artists up close, but also for the breathtaking setting. The music was fantastic, but the sherbert-hued skyline and distant ocean were equally mesmerizing.

Fortunately, there were just a few rooms available at Bela Vista Resort, conveniently located steps from the festival. This five-star Relais & Châteaux gem serves as a serene retreat behind a gate on a bustling street filled with bars, restaurants, and pedestrian activity. The property features thirty rooms and suites, including a charming three-story villa dating back to the 20th century. The bright blues and yellows, paired with decorative nautical elements, enhance the sea-view ambiance. Inside, the light-drenched bar boasts a wooden ceiling, and a staircase adorned with stained glass windows evokes the feeling of a cozy mansion rather than a hotel. The Michelin-starred restaurant Vista, led by chef João Olivei, has gained acclaim for its creative seafood dishes and fresh regional produce since its award in 2017. Outside, a spacious pool surrounded by palm trees and white cabanas offers an additional touch of luxury to this intimate haven. Despite the lively Afro Nation festivities spilling into the streets until dawn, at Bela Vista, I felt blissfully distanced from the commotion.

A riverside haven, abundant in wine

In dire need of caffeine and a full night’s sleep after the festival, I made my way to the nearby town of Faro to catch TAP Portugal’s one-hour flight to Porto, situated in the northern region of the country. This city is a stone’s throw from one of Portugal’s finest wine regions—the Douro Valley—as well as renowned port cellars and delightful outdoor seafood restaurants that continue to linger in my dreams.

My day in Porto kicked off with a stay at another hilltop gem: the Yeatman Hotel. Even if you’re not a guest, the panoramic views alone make it worth the trip. The room terraces, pool, and multi-level balconies offer stunning vistas of the historic city center right across the Douro River. As the sun sets, pastel buildings with crumbling facades, outdoor tables lining cobblestone promenades, and steep hills leading to charming side streets filled with boutique shops and tapas bars come alive with light. The Yeatman spans acres and includes three restaurants, an expansive spa, and events like wine dinner Thursdays, where guests can indulge in a specific wine region or style. Each of the 109 rooms is named after a distinguished Portuguese wine producer.

Nestled just below the Yeatman is WOW, The New Cultural District, which boasts seven interactive museum experiences along with 12 restaurants, bars, and cafés housed in former port wine cellars. Opened in 2020, this vibrant venue offers an excellent opportunity to delve into the history of port, wine, and even the textile industry in Portugal.

Across the river, nestled in the heart of Porto, I made my way to Wine Quay Bar, a beloved family-run establishment I stumbled upon in 2019 and was eager to revisit, especially for a glass of berry-rich baga wine from Portugal’s Bairrada region. In the evening, the terrace comes alive with twinkling lights reflecting off the river. For dining, a local's recommendation led me on a 20-minute cab ride to the coastal town of Matosinhos.

My passion for food drives my travels, and once again, I was delighted. Marisqueira Antiga showcases a dazzling array of crustaceans and fish, but I chose a rockfish—similar to sea bass but thicker, with crispy skin reminiscent of perfectly seasoned fried chicken. For my final dinner, I headed to Cantinho do Avillez, run by the renowned Portuguese chef José Avillez. In a cozy corner of the bustling bistro, I indulged in tender duck confit, lavishly draped in a red curry sauce alongside Chinese aubergine.

A heartfelt goodbye to Lisbon

As my journey came to a close, I found myself in a city I often say I’d love to call home someday. Lisbon doesn’t exude the grandeur of Paris or the chaos of London. While it may seem unfair to compare European capitals, it’s Lisbon’s inviting ‘come as you are and so will I’ vibe that always draws me in. I checked into AlmaLusa in Baixa Chiado, conveniently close to the city’s major attractions, including the Tagus River, lively bars, and fascinating museums. Originally a grocery store, the hotel opened its doors in 2016, preserving intricate 18th-century tile work. With just 28 rooms and suites, the first-floor restaurant and terrace offer a charming spot for breakfast and remote work. Outside, the terrace on Praça do Município features a small bar, perfect for enjoying an afternoon cocktail while indulging in some classic people-watching.

My afternoons in Lisbon were filled with the challenge of conquering the city's notorious steep hills, rewarded by breathtaking views from its miradouros in neighborhoods like Alfama and Principe Real. At Rossio Square, the Santa Justa elevator offers stunning vistas of downtown stretching all the way to the Tagus River. For lunch, I ventured to the newly opened restaurant Oficio, where mouthwatering tapas are the star: a sausage croquette with a quail egg at its heart; flame-cooked skate with herb sauce; and my personal favorite, a rich Algarve crab dip served in its shell. Later that day, I crossed the street to indulge in another shared plates delight at Páteo. A perfectly seasoned chicken piri piri alongside a glass of rosé was the perfect way to kick off my afternoon in the spacious gastronomic hub of Bairro do Avillez, which also features chef José Avillez’s Mini Bar and Taberna restaurants.

Dining at Bairro Alto Hotel features a nautical-themed restaurant named Bahr, where the outdoor patio boasts sweeping views of the Tagus River and the iconic 25 de Abril bridge. Inside, chef Bruno Rocha crafts delightful dishes such as spiced samosa rolls, wild turbot paired with grilled kale and chorizo, and for dessert, a refreshing apple granita.

On my final night in Lisbon, I dined at BouBou’s in Principe Real, which quickly became the highlight of my culinary experiences this year. Louise Bourrat, the recent winner of Top Chef France 2022, and her team take great care in preparing dishes in the open-air kitchen. Fresh herbs, chilled oysters, tender hamachi, and slices of watermelon transform into art under her meticulous guidance. Bourrat’s precision in detailing each dish is remarkable; I watched as she delicately adorned sliced eggplant with edible flowers for nearly 10 minutes, her focus unwavering. She is truly an artist—sometimes flustered, yet hopeful that her creations reflect her vision. And they do. Each bite of sweet potato ceviche with coconut, pomegranate, and kaffir lime, as well as a spicy vegan taco with kimchi rice, glazed seitan, and wasabi, was pure bliss.

A nightcap at a nearby bar called Social B provided the perfect sweet ending to my whirlwind journey of food, wine, and stunning scenery. By chance, the bartender was also a fan of Burna Boy, the Afrobeats artist who had launched my trip at the Afro Nation festival in Portimão. Ending my travels with those same uplifting melodies amidst new faces felt like a beautifully full circle moment.