A Dinogo’s Guide to the Finger Lakes

No matter if you’re arriving from the East Coast, Midwest, or Canada, a half-day drive brings you to the verdant hills of Central New York and the tranquil Finger Lakes region. This area is brimming with restaurants, farmers markets, fishing spots, and charming B&Bs, making farm-to-table dining the norm. For years, it has been a local sanctuary for exceptional vineyards producing riesling, chardonnay, and cabernet franc, attracting NYC residents seeking a weekend getaway and earning a reputation among wine lovers as a hidden gem.

Now, the word is out. Chefs, farmers, artisanal food makers, distillers, brewers, and vintners are drawn to the Finger Lakes for its prime location, rich natural resources, and affordable housing and commercial spaces. The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated this trend, shutting down hospitality hubs in nearby cities and prompting ambitious food entrepreneurs to migrate to Central New York. While the region has always celebrated its culinary heritage, recent developments have sparked a vibrant food scene that rivals West Coast wine destinations.

Summer sees lake houses bustling and farmers markets brimming with fresh produce, while winter vacations are dominated by the Catskills. However, the Finger Lakes truly shine in the fall, when the air turns crisp, the lakesides showcase stunning autumn foliage, apples tumble from orchard trees, and vineyards come alive for the harvest season.

A visit to Central New York, especially the Finger Lakes, strikes a balance between being 'actively adventurous' and 'delightfully relaxed.' You can opt for a guided wine tour from your indie B&B or lounge with a gourmet breakfast; fish for your meal in the lakes or snag a quick bite from a food stand; indulge in trendy new spots or revisit beloved classics. There’s an abundance of sights and activities to enjoy. From Seneca to Skaneateles and Cayuga to Canandaigua, here’s everything you need to know about dining in the Finger Lakes.

What are the Finger Lakes?

Depending on how you define them, there are 11 lakes that lend their name to the region; these slender, parallel waterways in western New York resemble claw marks on a map. From east to west, they are Otisco, Skaneateles, Owasco, Cayuga, Seneca, Keuka, Canandaigua, Honeoye, Canadice, Hemlock, and Conesus. Collectively, they encompass a significant part of the state, linking a collection of charming towns, a surprisingly vibrant cold-weather wine scene, and an atmosphere that shifts between tranquil countryside and creative energy.

The region is roughly framed by three mid-sized cities: Rochester to the west, Syracuse to the east, and Ithaca to the south. The quintessential bohemian college town, Ithaca houses Cornell University, Ithaca College, and a variety of bustling bars and restaurants, featuring many international cuisines. Rochester, New York's third-largest city, offers a blend of upscale dining and everyday favorites, including the iconic garbage plate, a notable culinary gem of the city (more on that below). Syracuse is celebrated for its budget-friendly restaurants that emphasize local ingredients, home to the original Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, famed for its pulled-pork sandwiches and distinctive sauces that fueled the chain's popularity across the state.

The Finger Lakes are also home to charming smaller towns that contribute to the region's pastoral charm. Residents of Syracuse frequently take day trips to the lakeside village of Skaneateles to enjoy boating, fishing, and dining on fresh catches at popular spots like Doug’s Fish Fry. Watkins Glen, nestled in the heart of the Seneca Lake Wine Trail, radiates quaint charm with its picturesque wineries, delightful restaurants, and cute ice cream shops — unless NASCAR fans fill up Watkins Glen International for a race. A short drive away, Penn Yan and Hammondsport are bursting with wineries, Mytouries, and cozy B&Bs. Don’t miss the riesling at Kemmeter Wines (also home to the Malaysian Mytoury Sans Dumplings) or the Windmill farmers market. Aurora, located on Cayuga Lake, is cherished for its vineyards, historic residences, and the Inns of Aurora, a key player in local hospitality. Lastly, at the northern tip of Seneca Lake, you’ll find Geneva, a popular spot for beverage lovers who gather at the Microclimate Wine Bar and enjoy international brews at Beef and Brew.

Essential tips before you visit

To truly experience FLX (short for Finger Lakes), make sure to memorize these regional must-haves, from iconic dishes to unmissable events.

Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc: As you explore the vineyards of the Finger Lakes, you'll encounter a variety of grapes, but riesling, chardonnay, and cabernet franc are consistently present. These varieties thrive in the region's cool climate, which shares favorable growing conditions with Germany's Mosel region.

Naples Grape Festival: Among the many festivals in the Finger Lakes, Naples boasts the quirkiest celebration every fall. This event pays tribute to locally grown grapes, featuring wine tasting tents, food vendors offering grape-themed delicacies, and the fiercely competitive Grape Pie Contest.

Garbage Plate: This beloved dish from Rochester is considered the ultimate hangover cure and a satisfying late-night snack, often brought up in discussions about Central New York's culinary scene. Originating from Nick Tahou Hots, the Garbage Plate is a substantial serving of fried potatoes topped with baked beans, macaroni salad, a choice of proteins (like hot dogs, hamburgers, sausage, chicken tenders, fried eggs, and more), and finished with onions, mustard, and spicy beef chili.

Moosewood Restaurant: Ithaca is a hub for vegetarian cuisine, a movement that began with Moosewood. Established in 1973, this restaurant and culinary collective gained fame for its dedication to plant-based dishes, especially after collective member Mollie Katzen released the Moosewood Cookbook, now a classic in vegetarian cooking.

Trout Fishing: Trout fishing is a popular activity in Central New York. Each fall, anglers from various regions converge on the area, particularly around Skaneateles and Cayuga lakes, where the cooler shallows make fishing more accessible.

Dining Options

Locals have a soft spot for classic American taverns, where you can enjoy wood-paneled interiors, extensive beer selections, and hearty burgers. However, many towns and cities in the Finger Lakes also offer a variety of international and fine dining experiences. The common thread is a strong commitment to sourcing local ingredients and produce.

Syracuse: A prime example of a classic American tavern can be found at Riley’s, a renowned pub in Syracuse known for its excellent tap selection, juicy sirloin burgers, and nightly blue plate specials. Red Chili excels in delivering the bold spiciness and rich flavors of Sichuan cuisine, with loyal fans often opting for customizable hot pots featuring meat, vegetarian, and seafood choices. Despite its playful name, Pastabilities commands respect among Syracuse locals for its homemade pasta dishes and a signature spicy tomato oil that has achieved cult status.

Ithaca: Gimme Coffee made a significant mark in Brooklyn for years before closing its NYC outlets during the pandemic. New Yorkers visiting the Finger Lakes can still enjoy this classic Ithaca roastery at one of its four cafes. For cocktail enthusiasts, Bar Argos is a stylish hotel bar that features expertly crafted drinks (many showcasing New York spirits) alongside light bites. Mia Tapas Bar brings a pan-Asian twist to Spanish tapas, delighting the town's youthful crowd with its innovative dishes and vibrant flavors. Highlights include lotus fritters, duck samosas, and smoked tofu buns, along with plenty of plant-based choices for vegetarians and vegans.

Geneva: A staple on Seneca Lake since 1994, Ports Cafe offers New American cuisine with international influences. Once an ice cream stand and burger joint, the venue has been polished while maintaining its rustic charm. Operated by local natives and skilled newcomers, Kindred Fare emphasizes seasonal produce, meats, and dairy in a creative and evolving menu. Their $40 chef’s choice prix fixe available on Mondays features some of the freshest dishes in town at an unbeatable price. Additionally, FLX Hospitality group has several strong establishments across Dundee, Rochester, and Corning, all led by chef and master sommelier Christopher Bates and general manager Isabel Bogadke. In Geneva, F.L.X. Table provides a communal dining experience, F.L.X. Fry Bird specializes in fried chicken paired with gourmet milkshakes and slushies, while F.L.X. Provisions offers artisanal groceries.

Lodi: With its abundance of cool-climate European wines, the Finger Lakes provides an ideal backdrop for an Austro-German bistro like Dano’s Heuriger on Seneca Lake. The Viennese menu features beloved dishes such as knockwurst, Wiener schnitzel, and goulash, paired with German-style riesling, gewurztraminer, and lemberger.

Hector: Stonecat Cafe combines fine dining techniques with local ingredients and beverages. The tavern celebrates New York’s European heritage with dishes like gravlax and risotto while also embracing American favorites like cornmeal catfish and smoked pulled pork.

Rochester: The mini-chain Schaller’s has been a beloved drive-thru spot since the mid-1950s, famous for its deliciously greasy cheeseburgers, loaded chili cheese fries, crispy onion rings, and thick milkshakes. Atlas Eats earns its praise for homemade baked goods, including flatbreads, cookies, tarts, pizzas, and macarons. Locals also cherish the bakery's internationally inspired brunch on weekends and five-course tasting menus on Friday and Saturday nights, featuring dishes like chorizo-stuffed quail and shrimp a la plancha with house-smoked pork belly.

Skaneateles: The vibrant bistro Gilda’s offers pizzas brimming with flavor, topped with ingredients like soppressata, burrata, cremini mushrooms, and roasted Fresno peppers, alongside a curated selection of craft beers.

Watkins Glen: Watkins Glen is filled with great spots to enjoy a meal and local wine, but Graft Wine + Cider Bar remains a standout, known for its curated beverage selection and delicious charcuterie boards. As you drive along Franklin Street, numerous ice cream stands await; don’t miss the Great Escape, a beloved establishment for nearly 40 years, offering house-made hard ice cream, gelato, and vegan options, including seasonal delights like sweet corn or pumpkin.

Hammondsport: The Park Inn is a stylish bistro set in a historic building, boasting a team of top-notch chefs, sommeliers, and managers from cities like New York, San Francisco, Napa Valley, and D.C. The metropolitan flair is evident in the decor, carefully selected drinks, and ever-changing seasonal menu, all while maintaining a casual vibe and commitment to local ingredients—using cheeses from FLX dairies, produce from FLX farms, and wines from local vineyards.

Where to drink:

The Finger Lakes region is a vibrant hub for German grape varieties like riesling, gewurztraminer, blaufrankisch, and lemberger, but FLX wineries also cultivate a diverse selection of European vines. Here, you'll find spirited chardonnays, delicate pinot noirs, spicy cabernet francs, and many others. For those who prefer alternatives, the area boasts an array of breweries, cideries, and distilleries to explore.

Wineries: Hailing from Bernkastel, Germany—a region famed for its riesling—Hermann Wiemer and his team at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard & Winery in Dundee have crafted some of the Finger Lakes’ most cherished cool-climate wines since their establishment in 1979. Konstantin Frank, who earned his viticulture PhD in Odessa, Ukraine, in 1930, immigrated to New York and opened his winery in the ’50s. Today, his family at Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery produces exceptional rieslings, chardonnays, and renowned sparkling wines. Red Tail Ridge Winery in Penn Yan offers popular rieslings and chardonnays, alongside unique German varietals like dornfelder, blaufrankisch, and sekt, Germany’s version of Champagne. Winemakers Kim and Debra Engle at Bloomer Creek Vineyard in Hector create Old World-style wines, including elegantly balanced rieslings, gruner Veltliners, chardonnays, and cabernet francs. Meanwhile, Heart & Hands Wine Company in Union Springs thrives on limestone-rich soil, resulting in exceptional pinot noirs and dry rieslings.

Breweries: Just outside downtown Syracuse, Heritage Hill consistently ranks among the top local breweries, celebrated for its American lagers, New England IPAs, and poutine, along with other seasonal brews and bar fare. Ithaca Beer, from its namesake town, has gained a strong reputation beyond the Finger Lakes, but those visiting its Ithaca location can enjoy a fantastic taproom and beer garden. Alongside staples like Flower Power IPA and Lakeside Lager, seasonal offerings, including the beloved pumpkin ale, are complemented by appetizers, pizzas, and burgers.

Distilleries: Grapes aren’t just for wine; at Finger Lakes Distilling in Burdett, they’re transformed into brandy, grappa, and vodka. The distillery also produces McKenzie-brand whiskeys and gins, along with a variety of fruit liqueurs, which visitors can sample through various tastings and cocktails. For a unique spirits experience, visit Mushroom Spirits in Seneca Falls, a small distillery famous for its earthy, mushroom-infused vodkas made from locally harvested fungi.

Where to Buy

The Finger Lakes is home to many proud independent farmers. You'll spot them at local farmers markets, showcasing their fresh produce to neighbors and lucky visitors alike.

The small-town allure of Penn Yan shines at Apple Barrel Orchards. This exceptional farmstand boasts a variety of fruits and berries in spring and summer, but truly comes alive in the fall with enticing pick-your-own apples and grapes. Canandaigua Farmers Market has thrived for 20 years, offering a stellar array of local produce, homemade jams, pickles, and other delights. Every weekend, farmers, artisans, food trucks, and local artists gather at the Ithaca Farmers Market, the largest in the area. Alongside fresh ingredients, you can savor a taste of the world with offerings from Cambodian, Jamaican, Cuban, and Chinese cuisines. Meanwhile, Sunset View Creamery in Odessa provides a unique experience where visitors can interact with the cows that produce the milk, cheese, and butter available for purchase.

Where to Stay

When visiting the Finger Lakes, skip the generic Super 8 and immerse yourself in the area's rustic charm by choosing a quaint, independently owned B&B or inn. These places often feature gourmet breakfasts, unique architecture, and organized tours. For a more private experience with stunning views, consider booking one of the countless lake houses available on Airbnb, especially on popular lakes like Cayuga and Seneca, as well as smaller lakes like Waneta.

Lilly and Greg DeForest-Campbell, former hospitality professionals from NYC and certified sommeliers, recently took charge of 1897 Beekman House Bed and Breakfast, a beautifully restored Victorian home in Dundee, with room rates starting at $165 per night. Guests enjoy a three-course breakfast featuring homemade breads and pastries before embarking on guided vineyard tours. For vegan visitors, Black Sheep Inn in Hammondsport (starting at $189 per night) offers a fully vegan breakfast menu, including options like sausage, egg, and cheese sandwiches or crepes topped with seasonal fruit. For additional relaxation, an on-site spa provides Swedish, hot stone, and deep tissue massages. For those who seek a more luxurious cabin experience, Chalet of Canandaigua caters to adventurous guests wanting to hike and explore Canandaigua Lake (rooms starting at $255 per night). Alternatively, opt for the renowned Inns of Aurora, featuring accommodations spread across several historic buildings with rates beginning at $350 per night.

Taylor Tobin is a freelance food & beverage writer (with features in HuffPost, Insider, Observer, Allrecipes, and Wine Enthusiast, among others) who lived in New York state for many years before moving to Austin. Thankfully, she has managed to return to her cherished Finger Lakes multiple times this year to savor the delicious food, remarkable wine, and wonderfully relaxed atmosphere.