A newcomer’s guide to the whimsical French city of Nantes

When was the last time you experienced a three-story mechanical elephant? Or indulged in a pastry with a perfectly charred exterior? Nantes, the city where American ragtime jazz first arrived in Europe, is anything but ordinary.

The birthplace of Jules Verne, Nantes has evolved from France’s key slavery port into a vibrant, youthful city that celebrates art. Here, tradition meets a progressive government and playful creativity in a multicultural setting that remains distinctly French. Situated on the Loire, just 30 miles from the Atlantic, it’s officially in the Loire-Atlantique, but its spirit is deeply rooted in Breton culture, reflected in both the street signs and the atmosphere.

Is Nantes a great choice for a city getaway?

Nantes makes for a perfect city break, offering a wealth of activities without feeling overwhelming. It's dotted with beautiful spots to relax and watch life unfold, and it boasts a rich history along with delightful culinary surprises. The city combines grandeur with a playful sense of humor and a vibrant passion for the arts. It’s welcoming to families and the LGBTQIA+ community. Just over two hours by train from Paris, Nantes remains relatively undiscovered by tourists.

When is the best time to visit?

Nantes captivates throughout the year, but the prime time to visit is from May to June, when the air is filled with floral scents and the locals seem to find endless reasons to celebrate. The laid-back vibe of Nantes is perfect for exploring on foot. From October to March, it can get chilly, so pack layers and a waterproof jacket.

Tips for saving money in Nantes

Many of Nantes' top attractions are completely free. Dubbed the city of 100 parks, you'll always find a tranquil spot nearby. Want to enjoy a picnic lunch in the enchanting courtyard of the Château des ducs de Bretagne? It's free of charge.

Most museums offer free entry on the first Sunday of every month. Additionally, public transport, including trams and buses, is free on weekends. Be sure to stop by Le Voyage à Nantes across from the castle's moat bridge for fantastic free guidebooks, current tips, and a handy paper map.

A 22km green line marked on the sidewalk takes you on an eclectic journey through quirky, inspiring, and thought-provoking art, history, and culture, featuring around 100 works by various artists. The Pass Nantes (starting at €27 for a solo visitor for 24 hours up to €225 for a 7-day family pass) offers a range of valuable discounts and free entry to over 50 museums and activities.

Local advice: Be aware that the hours for various activities may change throughout the year and on holidays. Always double-check before heading out.

Dining options in Nantes

For a delightful culinary experience, arrive early at the Talensac covered market. Gather all the fresh, local ingredients you desire for meals and tasty snacks. Prices are reasonable unless you indulge too much. Don't miss out on regional Breton delicacies like crêpes or galettes, as well as freshly caught seafood. Seek out cozy restaurants near Place du Bouffay for authentic international flavors. The downloadable guide, Les Tables de Nantes, provides a thorough overview of dining in Nantes from budget-friendly to upscale. Coffee lovers should make a stop at Café Penche.

Accommodations in Nantes

If possible, aim to stay in the historic city center. Hotel rates can vary significantly, so it's wise to book in advance. Voyage à Nantes offers fascinating choices ranging from family-oriented options to artistically designed suites at various price points, or consider a four-star hotel set in a converted church for €190 to €400.

Traveling to – and navigating – Nantes

Getting from Nantes Atlantique Airport to the historic center is a breeze. Every 20 minutes, a direct Navette Aéroport bus takes you to Nantes Gare Sud for €9 (note: it only accepts cards, not cash). This service is also part of the Pass Nantes.

Within France, SNCF operates approximately 18 trains daily between Paris and Nantes. To secure the best rates, book your tickets in advance. The journey takes around two hours, so be sure to check both departure times and travel durations. Nantes is a pedestrian-friendly city that respects accessibility needs, making a car unnecessary. The Nantes Pass covers trams and buses, while individual tickets are €2.50 for one hour. Rental bikes are also available.

What is the budget needed for Nantes?

• A good bottle of local wine, Muscadet: €9

• Coffee: €2.50-5; Take-away sandwich: €5-10

• Pastry: under €5

• Average price for a self-catering apartment: €75

• Four-star hotel: €120 to €270

• Two- to three-star hotels: €90 to €170

• Camping: starting from €37

Must-see attractions in Nantes with 4 simple mini-itineraries

Steampunk Menagerie

Take Tram line 1 to Chantiers Navals and enjoy the sights of this vibrantly revitalized industrial area as you cross the Loire to a nature-lover’s steampunk wonderland known as Les Machines de l’Île. It's perfect for families, but even without kids, you'll be amazed by the imaginative mechanical artistry behind the rideable sea creatures of the Carrousel des Mondes Marins. Experience the world's first 'eco-friendly mechanical elephant' as it strolls the grounds, playfully spraying those nearby with its trunk. If Leonardo da Vinci were alive today, this would surely be his workshop. Take a leisurely walk down Quai des Antilles to the Hangar à Bananes, a transformed tropical fruit warehouse that now serves as a vibrant waterside spot featuring casual dining, a delightful play area, an eclectic bookstore, and the HAB art gallery.

Talensac Market and a Japanese Versailles

Visit Talensac Market early to snag some zesty pink and white radishes and sample the local cheeses! Don’t forget to satisfy your sweet tooth with local specialties like Gateau Nantais and Far Breton. The light, burnt-top Tourteau Fromagé (a traditional wedding dessert from Poitou-Charentes) is simply divine at Le Banc Bleu. In season, Damien Rio presents an array of strawberry varieties you never knew existed, along with award-winning jam. On weekends, trendy fashions are available at 20% less than in Paris. Stroll along the nearby Erdre River to Île de Versailles and explore the pathways of a tranquil Japanese garden. You can also rent a small boat for a leisurely paddle on the water.

Jardin des Plantes: The Botanic Gardens of Nantes and beyond

Where else can you exit a train station and find yourself in one of France's premier botanical gardens? Featuring waterfalls, ponds, expansive lawns, 10,000 species of plants from around the globe, a playground, and an outdoor café, the Jardin des Plantes (established in 1807) is a peaceful escape from the hustle of daily life.

On the nearby Rue Clemenceau, the sophisticated Musée d’Arts de Nantes will delight you with both familiar names and brilliant artists you may not know. The reasonably priced Café du Musee is run by a Michelin-starred chef.

As you pass the archaeological remnants dating from the 3rd to the 15th century at Porte Saint-Pierre, you'll reach the Cathedrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul. Construction began in 1434, and although it suffered a fire in 2020 and is currently closed, its grandeur remains. Stroll along the cobbled Rue Mathelin Rodier toward the Château. Vegetarians rave about Terra Vega (which is moving soon), while everyone admires the swords displayed in the window of Comptoir du Chateau.

Cross the drawbridge over the moat to the 15th-century Château des ducs de Bretagne, once the residence of the beloved Duchess Anne. This castle now hosts the extensive collections of the Nantes history museum, which candidly addresses Nantes’ involvement in the slave trade, playfully highlights local LU biscuits, and compellingly chronicles Nantes’ complex WWII history. Enjoy free access to the panoramic rampart views, courtyard, and grassy moat area.

Starting mid-May, treat yourself to fresh local strawberry sorbet at La Fraiseraie, located across from Galeries Lafayette on Rue de la Marne. Experience the laid-back café culture at Place du Bouffay, where you can spot Philippe Ramette’s amusing statue of a suited man teetering halfway over the edge of his pedestal.

As you make your way back to the Gare, take a detour to the artistic hotspot Le lieu Unique, an architectural gem resembling a pastel chess piece.

Glamorous Graslin

Between Place Royale and Graslin, look for L’Univers Café Speakeasy, where in February 1918, the 369th Infantry’s Harlem Hellfighters Band thrilled the locals with the first jazz concert in Europe.

The magnificent 19th-century Passage Pommeraye is an ornately decorated tribute to shopping that’s worth admiring, even if you’re not a fan of retail therapy.

The Opera House is stunning, featuring inviting steps to sit on in true Nantes fashion. Across the square, the beautifully-tiled art-nouveau brasserie La Cigale was once a favorite spot for surrealists and film enthusiasts. At the back, wander between elegant mansions along the mid-19th-century Cours Cambronne.

On Rue Voltaire, you’ll discover the Museum of Natural History, which embraces an old-fashioned charm in the best way, complete with a quirky and inviting park in front.