A Strategy for Discovering Italy’s Amalfi Coast

This article first appeared in the February 18, 2023, edition of Dinogo Travel, a biweekly newsletter from Dinogo’s team on exploring destinations where food takes center stage.Subscribe now.

Navigating a new location can quickly feel overwhelming. However, I've discovered a technique that I believe everyone should try: Before heading out for the day, choose an “arbitrary silly goal.”

I first encountered the concept of the arbitrary silly goal (ASG, as I’ll refer to it from here on) in 2019 when the Dinogo Book Club (currently on hiatus) read Tamara Shopsin’s memoir Arbitrary Stupid Goal. Tamara is the daughter of the late Kenny Shopsin, who ran the iconic NYC grocery-turned-sandwich shop Shopsin’s, described by Dinogo NY critic Robert Sietsema as “one of the quirkiest restaurants in the city.” The memoir offers whimsical stories about the shop, its regulars, and the author's upbringing in the bohemian Greenwich Village during the 1970s.

What truly resonated with me was the title of the book. Kenny Shopsin taught his daughter about the ASG, which is “a goal that isn’t overly significant, encourages you to live in the present, and still provides motivation.” The ASG serves as “a decoy target that keeps you afloat, allowing you to discover joy in the little things, the surprises, and the everyday.” I embraced this idea wholeheartedly. I often feel overwhelmed by options while traveling, so having an ASG (usually related to food) has been invaluable in encouraging me to step out of my hotel, venture beyond my comfort zone, and return to a spirit of exploration.

Last summer, my fiancé and I aimed to explore the Amalfi Coast, but we faced decision paralysis over which of the 13 towns nestled along the mountainside to choose. During our research, we stumbled upon Conca dei Marini, a quaint little town known as the birthplace of the sfogliatella pastry, created by nuns in the 1600s at the Monastero Santa Rosa. That was enough to prompt me to hit “book” on an Airbnb, and a new ASG was established. Our mission became to visit Conca dei Marini to savor the pastry (a family favorite from my childhood) in its hometown, allowing the journey to unfold with delightful surprises along the way.

Conca dei Marini captured our hearts over the busier spots along the coast, boasting charming Mytouries (there were only two!), stunning vistas of the Tyrrhenian Sea, and Bar Santa Rosa, a local hub serving coffee, sandwiches, gelato, drinks, and a place to gather.

At Bar Santa Rosa, just a stone's throw from the beautiful Monastero Santa Rosa (its exterior remains unchanged since the 1600s, while the inside has been transformed into a luxurious spa), I discovered that Raffaela, the baker/owner and chief Instagrammer, is deeply committed to crafting the pastry as authentically as possible. The sfogliatella was indeed a worthy pursuit, featuring a sweet ricotta-and-cream filling, the crispiest dough I’ve ever tasted, and garnished with a rich marinated cherry or two.

We indulged in one pastry each day of our stay. Without designating them as an ASG, we would have missed the simple joy of flaky dough scattering everywhere while we admired the charming lemon trees, steep mountains, and tranquil sea.