Airport Breakfasts Are Generally Awful. Here’s How Chefs Deal With It.
Navigating TSA before 9 a.m. is bad enough, but airport breakfasts are usually a letdown. While I can tolerate a McDonald’s Egg McMuffin or a secret Starbucks order, more often than not, I end up stashing a Larabar in my carry-on and drinking whatever subpar coffee the airport provides. The terminal at SFO, where I frequently fly from, lacks both major fast-food chains and decent bagels. In reality, airport breakfasts are the worst meal option.
However, it doesn’t have to be this way. “This seems to be an American issue,” says David Chang, chef-founder of Momofuku. He points out that Narita and Haneda airports in Japan offer excellent breakfast choices. Chang also praises Charles DeGaulle Airport for its variety and Copenhagen Airport for its top-notch pastry spot, Lagkagehuset. “The worst is when pizza shops in airports serve breakfast from a steam table,” he adds. “Nothing beats that disappointment.”
Below, culinary experts share their strategies for surviving morning flights, offering insights, hacks, and practical solutions to improve the airport breakfast experience.
Hugh Acheson, on navigating the airline loungeChef-restaurateur (Five & Ten, The National), Top Chef judge, cookbook author
My approach is straightforward. I get my coffee before heading to the airport, usually brewed at home and transferred into a to-go cup, because airport coffee is often questionable.
When departing from my local hub, Hartsfield-Jackson International in Atlanta, I clear security and head to the Delta lounge. There, I snag a bland bagel, typically sesame (or everything if I’m craving some extra salt), and toast it dark—twice. This toasting process takes about 30 minutes since Delta’s toasters are notoriously slow. Once toasted, I slather it with butter, cream cheese, and strawberry jam, grab a newspaper and a couple of napkins, and enjoy. Then, I order apple juice on ice from the bar, which makes me look like an early-morning drinker—though it’s just juice.
After that, I tune into NPR to gauge the latest in our nation’s downward spiral. Finally, I head to the gate, board the plane, and depending on the eccentricity of my seatmate, I either keep my headphones on or off.
Ayesha Curry, on the best Starbucks breakfastAyesha’s Home Kitchen host, founder of Homemade meal-kit delivery service
I aim for a healthy lifestyle, even while traveling, so I make sure to start my day with good choices. Coffee or tea is a must! I also pack a [plastic] bag with a mix of dried cherries, dark chocolate chips, almonds, raisins, and sunflower seeds—about a quarter cup of each. This stash is perfect for on-the-go, especially when I’m rushing through the airport or don’t have time to stop. Many people don’t realize that bringing food into the airport is allowed.
Occasionally, I indulge in a Starbucks chocolate chunk muffin at the airport—my little guilty pleasure.
Mark Rosati, on discovering local charmShake Shack culinary director
For super-early flights, I skip coffee both at home and at the airport to maximize my sleep on the plane. Every moment counts, especially on business trips! Upon arrival, I’m usually starving and head straight to breakfast if the airport has a spot with local character and regional flavors. For instance, I love Publican Tavern in O’Hare for their excellent coffee and scrambled eggs with house-made Publican bacon. At JFK (or soon LAX!), I always go for a Shake Shack breakfast sandwich.
Eric Ripert, on airport sushiChef-restaurateur (Le Bernardin), author
When booking a flight, I ensure I have enough time to enjoy a quality meal at the airport, as the standard of airport restaurants has greatly improved. To avoid stress and poor choices, I prefer eating before my flight rather than on the plane. I’m often impressed by the high-quality sushi at Deep Blue Sushi in JFK, though I try not to book flights too early, so I rarely make it in time for breakfast.
When traveling further afield, I enjoy dining at Caviar House & Prunier in Heathrow, where I always order the smoked salmon and a glass of champagne. Singapore has a fantastic food court, and if you’re flying with Etihad, their Abu Dhabi lounge offers excellent dining options.
Marcus Samuelsson, on discovering fresh food choicesChef-restaurateur (Red Rooster), cookbook author
For a healthy breakfast, I prefer finding a cafe where I can enjoy fresh fruit and a nutritious muffin. Coffee or cappuccino is my go-to beverage to kickstart the early flight, along with a bottle of water. As a frequent traveler, I often find myself in airports like Heathrow, Miami, and LAX.
Stumptown Coffee at Portland International Airport FacebookAndy Ricker, on airport coffeeChef-restaurateur (Pok Pok), cookbook author
I frequently fly between PDX and JFK, usually departing very early in the morning. While I skip breakfast on travel days, I absolutely need a quality cup of coffee—no Starbucks for me! Thankfully, both JFK and PDX offer Stumptown coffee. In Portland, you can get it directly from Stumptown, but at JFK, it’s a bit trickier. Fortunately, Shake Shack serves Stumptown Coffee, both cold brew and hot drip, though you'll need to brave the lines to get it.
Suzanne Goin, on the perks of having an airport restaurantChef-restaurateur (AOC, Lucques)
For early flights, I need a strong coffee and something to eat. My usual choice is yogurt with blueberries, strawberries, and granola. For a touch of indulgence, I might opt for a pastry like a pain au chocolat or a brown sugar scone. If I'm flying around lunchtime or dinner, I go for a hearty sandwich with fresh veggies or a substantial salad. I also pack nuts or healthy snacks for the flight. Luckily, Tom Bradley International Terminal at LAX has our Larder at Tavern, where I can grab my favorite foods before heading abroad.
Michael Solomonov, on staying hydrated while travelingChef-restaurateur (Zahav, Federal Donuts), cookbook author
To stay hydrated during travel, I eat a bowl of fruit, particularly bananas, which help absorb water. I also pack a couple of bags of nuts to avoid the overly salty in-flight snacks. If time allows, I enjoy the food at French brasserie Saison in the United terminal at Newark Liberty International Airport, which turns the idea of “bad airport food” on its head and makes you feel like you’re already at a fantastic culinary destination.
David Chang, on finding the ultimate airport breakfastChef-restaurateur (Momofuku), cookbook author, Mind of a Chef star
The strategy varies depending on the time of day and the airport. If it’s 5 a.m., I skip it. Later in the morning, the options become clearer. At JFK’s Delta terminal, the Shake Shack breakfast sandwich is a game-changer; I once missed a flight waiting for it. Usually, I go for a sausage, egg, and cheese. Panda Express opens at 10, so that’s another option. Wolfgang Puck offers a solid breakfast pizza for those coming from the West Coast.
Occasionally, I resort to Soylent, which oddly reminds me of the soy drinks my mom used to make. It’s not terrible to me, but it’s a last-resort option. I often end up tossing it without drinking it.
The best airport breakfast I’ve ever had was at Haneda, where I discovered Rokurinsha ramen. It’s a hidden gem, not labeled as Rokurinsha but undeniably the finest breakfast option available.
Evaluation :
5/5