Are you exploring the world's priciest meats?

"Would you prefer the 2000 or 2003 vintage?"

A typical question when choosing wine at a fine dining restaurant – but unheard of when ordering beef. That's because only one butcher in the world, Alexandre Polmard from France, offers what is considered the pinnacle of exclusive and pricey meats.

The young farmer, breeder, and butcher is the sixth generation in his family to run the business, founded in 1846.

The business gained significant attention in the 1990s when Polmard's father and grandfather pioneered and eventually introduced a unique meat preservation method called 'hibernation.'

The process involves blowing cold air at speeds of 120 km/h over the meat in a -43°C environment. This method preserves the meat indefinitely, with no loss of quality, according to Polmard.

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The cattle breed in question, comparable to top-tier beef like Black Angus and Kobe, is Blonde Aquitaine. Polmard and his family raise them on their farm near the small town of Saint Mihiel, in the Meuse region of Lorraine, northeastern France.

"My family would never consider raising animals in cramped sheds where they can't move freely," he says. "Here, they roam in open fields, forests, and parklands. They have shelters available if it rains or snows. It's truly five-star living!"

Maintaining low stress levels

Polmard explains that he speaks to his animals daily, making sure their lives are as comfortable and stress-free as possible, even when it's time for them to be slaughtered.

When cows experience stress before entering the slaughterhouse, their glycogen and lactic acid levels rise, which leads to a loss of tenderness and flavor. To prevent this, Polmard is investing one million euros in an on-site abattoir, where only four cows will be processed each week, ensuring a calm environment to minimize stress.

The results speak for themselves.

"The love and care we pour into our animals is reflected in the taste," he says. "They are truly one-of-a-kind."

Gourmet enthusiasts seem to agree, flocking to the Polmard boucherie in the vibrant St. Germain des Pres district of Paris.

It resembles a high-end jewelry store or a vintage wine shop more than a traditional butcher’s, with cuts and charcuterie neatly arranged in wooden drawers, each marked with handwritten labels, all set against a moody, dramatic backdrop.

Polmard exclusively sells beef from his farm, most of it aged between 28 and 56 days. However, it’s the vintage 'millesime' beef that truly sets his shop apart.

"I wanted to bring the world of wine to the butchery, offering something exceptional to entice people back to beef," says Polmard.

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Exclusively available to a select group of chefs worldwide

Despite the steep prices, customers eagerly reserve months in advance for a chance to taste some of the rarest and most aged cuts. Like wine, each vintage of beef offers a unique flavor and characteristics.

Polmard entrusts his exclusive and expensive vintage beef to a carefully selected group of chefs around the world.

Before handing over his prized meat, he personally visits each chef to ensure they fully understand the unique qualities and complexities of his product.

One of the chefs he trusts most is fellow Frenchman Fabrice Vulin, who runs the two-Michelin-star restaurant Caprice at Hong Kong’s Four Seasons Hotel. Known for its luxurious French cuisine, Caprice offers stunning views of Victoria Harbor and is adorned with crystal and marble.

A meal this special requires an equally remarkable setting, so Polmard’s 15-year-old beef was recently served at Caprice’s chef’s table, with a view of the kitchen, nestled within the restaurant’s renowned wine room and adjacent cheese cellar.

From rump steak served vitello tonnato style (thinly sliced with autumn truffles) to beef tartare paired with Laphroaig whisky and Oscietra caviar, this meal is truly exceptional.

The highlight of the meal is undeniably 'Polmard’s Rare Millesime Cote de Boeuf, Vintage 2000.' The four fortunate diners fall silent as Chef Vulin presents the massive cut, expertly slicing it to reveal the ruby red and pink flesh, nearly free of marbling or fat.

According to Chef Vulin, what makes the taste so extraordinary is its subtle acidity and a texture unlike anything else – it’s so tender, you almost don’t need a knife to cut it.

Polmard, 2 Rue de l’Abbaye, Paris; +33 1432 97648