Bison, Badlands, and the Black Hills: Insights from my 3-day journey through South Dakota

In just three days in South Dakota, I discovered more about bison than I ever imagined. As the largest land mammal in North America, bison can weigh over 2,000 pounds. Surprisingly, despite their size, they can charge at speeds of up to 35 mph (similar to a horse). Most notably, they are known for being unpredictable and temperamental, with thousands freely roaming the Badlands and Black Hills of South Dakota.

My first sighting of bison occurred at Custer State Park in late September during my visit to South Dakota, courtesy of the state's tourism board. Renowned for its colossal faces carved into mountainsides (nicknamed the Mount Rushmore State), South Dakota also boasts numerous breathtaking national and state parks, winding roads ideal for road trips, and abundant wildlife that remains undisturbed by curious visitors.

After a year and a half of the pandemic, like many others, I found myself seeking out less crowded locations and discovering new spots closer to home. South Dakota promised abundant wilderness and tranquility, so I eagerly accepted the invitation to visit.

Here’s what I experienced (and discovered) during my three-day adventure.

Where the buffalo roam

On a chilly Friday morning, I grasped my cup of coffee like a protective charm as I navigated my rental car into a queue of vehicles heading to Custer State Park, a vast wilderness area covering 71,000 acres in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

As dawn began to spread its light over the prairie, filtering through the ponderosa pines, we raced along the winding roads toward the park.

I arrived in South Dakota just in time for the 56th annual Buffalo Roundup — a grand event that attracts tens of thousands to the state’s largest park (over 22,000 attended in 2021). While the roundup serves to manage the bison population, it has also become a state tradition, complete with festive celebrations, chaps, and Stetsons. That morning, I watched from the bed of a truck (alongside other media members) as part of a procession that included horseback riders, all urging 1,400 wild bison to thunder across the dry grasses towards the corrals.

As a New Yorker who has lived my entire life in the bustling cities and suburbs of the East Coast, the closest comparison I could make was the scene in "The Lion King" where wildebeests stampede over Mufasa. I had never encountered such large animals in such numbers up close, and I was continually amazed by how bison appeared almost archetypal — like a cave painting come to life.

The ground seemed to shake as the bison thundered by, shrouded in clouds of dust, growling and snorting, their sounds amplified by the cheers and shouts of horseback riders and the honking of vehicle horns. At times, I found myself yelling as well. The energy and excitement were infectious, and by the afternoon, I would be brushing off the dust that clung to my skin and clothes.

As members of the media, we had the opportunity to get up close with the herd a day early, receiving a (very supervised) tour from the staff at Custer State Park. In a tense moment, we were advised to lower our voices when we drew some unwanted attention. The bison's tail, we learned, serves as a warning sign. When a bison is agitated and uneasy, its tail remains still and stands upright — a clear signal.

We all breathed a sigh of relief when the bison redirected its focus back to the grass and began playfully rolling in the dust and dirt.

Custer State Park isn’t the only spot in South Dakota where you can witness bison in their natural habitat. Both of the state’s national parks are home to herds of these magnificent creatures. (For clarity, while many refer to them as buffalo, the correct term is bison — they are related to buffalo, but not closely at all.)

While the Badlands might steal the spotlight, I couldn’t visit South Dakota without also exploring the state’s other national park, Wind Cave. Unfortunately, the park’s namesake feature — one of the largest and densest cave systems in the world — lies underground, and I arrived just after the last tour had left. Entrance to Wind Cave National Park is free, but tours (necessary for accessing the cave) come with a fee, and tickets are issued on a first-come, first-served basis. Given the popularity of national parks nowadays, it’s common for visitors to wait an hour or more just to get tickets.

Nonetheless, you can freely explore the park's surface features at your own pace. Off-trail hiking is even allowed here, and at times, it’s encouraged. After grabbing a guide from the visitor center, I headed to a trailhead for a brief afternoon hike.

The trail was easy, but I soon found myself captivated by the large piles of dung scattered around the trailhead. At the visitor center, a ranger had eagerly shared information about the wildlife that frequents the park, including the bison herd that has not been crossbred with cattle.

As I navigated the trail, carefully stepping through a quiet prairie dog colony, I became more alert. There was an abundance of droppings. There's really no gentle way to say that.

When I turned a corner, I spotted a large, boulder-shaped figure that resembled a bison. A closer inspection revealed that it was indeed a bison, effectively blocking my path on the trail — and I was way too close for comfort. The National Park Service advises maintaining a distance of at least 25 yards (75 feet) from bison. Earlier that morning, I had witnessed the sheer force of an agitated bison during the roundup and heard cautionary tales about tourists who had approached these unpredictable animals too closely.

So, I cautiously retreated and opted to head back to the car. Time was short for off-trail exploration; the daylight was already dwindling, and I hoped to fit in one more stop before the sun set.

As I made my way back to the parking area, I questioned whether I had overreacted. Perhaps it had just been a rock after all. And then I heard it: a low grunt. Or maybe it was just a gut feeling — that unmistakable sensation of being observed and evaluated.

To my right along the trail stood a bison. There was no way to reach my car, which I could see, without passing directly by the bison.

I kept an eye on its tail. It hung down, not swishing joyfully like a golden retriever, but it was clearly on high alert.

I quickly distanced myself, watching that tail and the bison's enormous amber eyes, reminiscent of smooth river stones glistening in the sunlight. Concluding that I was either harmless or exceedingly dull, the bison shifted its focus to a nearby tree and began to rub its massive side against the trunk.

Hit the trails

After the thrill of the roundup, I embarked on what can only be described as a hilariously ambitious quest to do, well, everything. During my visit to South Dakota, I made the trek to Mount Rushmore, where I found myself more captivated by a pair of mountain goats than by the colossal faces of historical figures carved into the rock face.

I also witnessed the still-evolving Crazy Horse Memorial, illuminated by the golden hues of sunset.

The day prior, a group of us hiked Little Devils Tower, a 3.6-mile spur trail in the Black Hills that, despite being well-loved, still offered some gratifying scrambles. A flurry of ladybugs (not to mention the wind) made each step a bit tricky, but the breathtaking view from the summit, overlooking the jagged granite spires of the landscape, made every effort worthwhile.

After our hike, I took a brief loop around the picturesque Sylvan Lake before regrouping with the team for dinner at Skogen Kitchen in Custer. This eatery could easily find a home in Chelsea or the East Village, offering dishes like shishito peppers drizzled in goat cheese crema and roasted halibut accompanied by kohlrabi and pickled peaches.

My stroll interrupted by bison in Wind Cave National Park had definitely left me craving a more intense hike to lace up my boots for a serious trail adventure.

On the morning before my flight back to the New York City area, I once again rolled out of bed and into my car in the early dawn, embarking on a 1.5-hour drive northwest past Rapid City and the historic gold rush town of Deadwood to reach Spearfish Canyon.

The 76 Trail was clearly marked, making it easy to find parking in a lot next to the Spearfish Canyon Lodge. Eager to beat the other early birds, I hurried to the summit of the 1.2-mile out-and-back trail, enjoying the breakfast bowl I had stuffed into my pack while taking in the early fall colors. In just a week, I suspected the entire canyon would be ablaze with vibrant hues.

Afterward, I crossed the street from the lodge to visit Roughlock Falls, an easy walk featuring boardwalks and bridges that provided great views of the waterfalls.

Next, I zoomed over to Badlands National Park, making a pit stop at the famous Wall Drug to grab some snacks and cold soda. Originally a drugstore offering free ice water to thirsty travelers in the 1930s, Wall Drug has expanded to include 26 retail shops selling everything from souvenirs to pharmacy goods, along with a restaurant renowned for its homemade doughnuts.

In the sweltering late afternoon, I tackled the challenging, sandy stretches of the Saddle Pass Trail. I lingered until nightfall, observing a variety of wildlife—bighorn sheep, jackrabbits, and more—emerge as most visitors departed, all the while keeping an eye out for rattlesnakes or bison.

After a night at the nearby Frontier Cabins, I set out again in the morning, eager to catch the sunrise on Notch Trail before the crowds arrived.

This 1.5-mile trail offers a short yet rewarding hike in South Dakota, featuring a steep wooden ladder that climbs up and out of the canyon. It’s not overly challenging unless heights make you uneasy, though I can imagine it becomes frustrating when crowded, as passing others on the ladder or narrow sections is nearly impossible. Luckily, during my early morning trek, I encountered only a few fellow hikers, allowing me to enjoy the view all to myself for a while.

Throughout the day, I checked off various trails from my park map, ultimately taking some time to drive along Badlands Loop Road (South Dakota Highway 240). I stopped often to marvel at the breathtaking buttes and stark canyons of the Badlands, where the arid landscape has been shaped by wind and rain over hundreds of thousands of years.

Planning ahead

Do you remember when you used to print directions from MapQuest (yes, I’m older than I look), and if you made a mistake, your only option was to backtrack to the last spot you were reasonably sure of?

For my journey to South Dakota, I printed driving directions before landing at Rapid City Regional Airport (RAP), which is served by United Airlines, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, and Allegiant Air, with nonstop flights from major hubs like Dallas-Fort Worth (DFW), Denver (DEN), and Las Vegas (LAS).

When planning a road trip through South Dakota, make sure to check for directions on your phone while still in an area with reliable cell service or Wi-Fi. During my travels, I often followed my progress using the little blue dot after losing signal, trying my best to avoid any major missteps.

However, there were plenty of moments when I completely ignored my phone and opted to sift through printed maps and handwritten notes for my driving directions. It was a liberating yet slightly nerve-wracking experience. Yet, getting too lost in South Dakota would be quite a challenge, as the long stretches of highway unfold like gray ribbons across the Great Plains. This place inspires a song that captures its essence: the expansive blue skies and soft, drifting clouds, the beauty of its sunrises and sunsets, and the wildness that defines it.

Travelers considering a visit to South Dakota this year might find late fall to be the ideal time, as the weather is delightful and the leaves begin to change color. In 2022, the Buffalo Roundup—always free and open to the public—will take place on September 30. A new visitor center dedicated to bison is expected to open just in time for the event.

Shortly after the roundup, on October 2, the 6.2-mile Fall Volksmarch at Crazy Horse Memorial will also be happening. This hike takes participants up to the memorial, which is the world's largest mountain carving currently underway.

Embracing the wilderness

During my short stay in South Dakota, I spent countless hours—entire days, really—simply enjoying my own company.

Throughout my journey, I often found myself standing at a scenic overlook (or maybe just pulled over on the roadside), captivated by a view that seemed to be pulled straight from a Johnny Cash song, reminiscent of an old Western—a part of the country I knew existed but could hardly believe was only a four-hour flight from New York City.

As I navigated the winding turns of Needles Highway, drove past fields dotted with prairie dogs, and admired the sun-baked spires and hoodoos emerging from the Badlands, I experienced for the first time since the pandemic began a purposeful kind of solitude—one that felt neither lonely nor uncomfortable. After enduring so much isolation from friends and family due to the ongoing coronavirus crisis, this journey was allowing me to reclaim my sense of independence.

Even amidst the Buffalo Roundup, surrounded by over a thousand bison and tens of thousands of visitors, I felt a deep reconnection with one of the most remarkable aspects of travel: the ability to discover yourself, rely on yourself, and find peace in those moments of rekindling the wild spirit we often lose in the routine of daily life.