Black Passengers Are a Rare Sight on River Cruises—This New Voyage in France Seeks to Change That

Dinner was winding down when a line of waiters appeared from the kitchen, each following the other. Two of them held birthday cakes adorned with sparkling candles, rushing towards two guests in the bustling dining room aboard the 152-passenger AmaKristina.

Naturally, the American version of the Happy Birthday song followed suit. The waiters led the chorus, having undoubtedly performed this same tune for countless guests on previous AmaWaterways river cruises.

However, before the waiters, many of whom came from Eastern Europe, could complete the final note of the song, the guests in the dining room—all Black travelers—spontaneously burst into Stevie Wonder’s timeless “Happy Birthday” tune, a classic from the 1980s, cherished and regularly sung in many African American communities during birthday celebrations.

It marked the first evening of AmaWaterways’ debut sailing of the Soulful Epicurean Experience, an 11-day river cruise itinerary designed to delve into Black history and culture in southern France along the Rhône River, culminating in a three-night stay in Paris.

Whether it was the gospel-like vibe igniting the atmosphere or the amused, perplexed expressions twisting smiles on the waiters’ faces, everyone collectively realized: This river cruise was going to be something unique and undeniably fun.

The scarcity of Black travelers on river cruises

Historically, river cruising has been tailored and marketed primarily towards white travelers. This style of travel has been positioned as a more luxurious option compared to ocean cruising. Black travel advisors point out that ocean cruising has generally done a better job of attracting a diverse range of passengers, including Black travelers, primarily due to more inclusive marketing materials.

“One of my frustrations when searching for representations of Black travelers in travel marketing is the absence of an international context; they never seem to be depicted in actual destinations,” stated Jackie Williams, owner of NuVibe Travel Experiences and a key travel advisor involved in the creation of the Soulful itinerary. Williams was onboard the AmaKristina for its inaugural voyage.

In 2021, Williams, along with around 10 other Black travel advisors, met with AmaWaterways executives to express their desire to introduce their affluent ocean cruise clients to river cruising. However, they lacked brochures that accurately represented the experience for Black travelers.

The advisors raised challenging questions that AmaWaterways—and, honestly, the river cruise industry overall—needed to confront regarding the underrepresentation of Black travelers in its marketing materials, and who river cruising is intended for if the industry aims to attract a more diverse, affluent audience actively pursuing luxury travel experiences beyond ocean cruising.

These discussions resulted in AmaWaterways arranging photo shoots featuring Williams, her fellow advisors, and their friends and families, which were then included in the travel brochures. This also paved the way for the launch of the Soulful Epicurean Experience sailings.

Standing in that dining room, singing along to Wonder’s “Happy Birthday” while reflecting on the origins of the Soulful Epicurean Experience made that first night aboard the AmaKristina feel even sweeter and more triumphant—not only because it marked the industry’s first Black heritage river cruise experience but also because I realized it wouldn’t be the last.

We are meant to be here, I recall thinking. We belong everywhere.

The inaugural Soulful Epicurean Experience river cruise by AmaWaterways

In many respects, the Soulful Epicurean Experience itinerary functioned similarly to any other AmaWaterways river cruise itinerary in Europe. The journey followed the line’s classic Colors of Provence itinerary, a seven-night voyage along France’s Rhône River between Lyon and Arles.

The itinerary

All Soulful Experience itineraries, which will also launch in Egypt and Portugal in 2024, feature pre- or post-cruise extensions for a deeper immersion in Black history on land. Ours included three additional nights in Paris following the cruise, where we delved into the legacy and influence of notable figures like novelist Alexander Dumas and American performer Josephine Baker on French society and culture.

Most European river cruise itineraries focus on wine and culinary experiences, tours of charming cobblestone towns by bus and foot, live nightly entertainment, and a range of onboard activities, from cooking demonstrations to guest lectures and fitness classes, all designed to enhance the relaxing sailing experience.

These elements were also part of this journey, though the itinerary was enriched with experiences that showcased the Black history and culture found in Provence and Paris.

An afternoon of wine tasting in Beaujolais followed a morning visit to a contemporary art gallery showcasing African artists. A guest lecture onboard explored France’s connections with its own Black and African communities, preceded by a picturesque drive through the Provence countryside. A spirited jazz concert on the ship culminated in a lively dance party after an all-day exploration of Black history in Marseille.

Jazzmine Douse, the director of national accounts at AmaWaterways, shared that she collaborated closely with Williams and the other Black travel advisors to create a culturally rich and thought-provoking itinerary centered around the Black experience while also providing the luxurious and relaxing river cruise experience that AmaWaterways is celebrated for.

“We always had to refer back to the theme of the cruise,” Douse explained. “It’s a celebration of the African and Black diaspora through food, wine, and music, especially jazz. Therefore, within our Colors of Provence itinerary, we needed to determine which tours to replace and where to introduce additional experiences.”

Activities and excursions

In Vienne, France, known for the annual festival Jazz à Vienne, the original plan included a morning walking tour of Roman ruins. Instead, we enjoyed a local jazz trio at the winery and event venue Le Caveau du Château, followed by a delightful wine tasting. Later that afternoon, back on the ship, Jean-Paul Boutellie, the founder of Jazz à Vienne, shared insights about the festival’s history and his passion for jazz, which inspired the creation of the event.

In Avignon, instead of an afternoon bike ride, we explored Fondation Blachère, France’s first contemporary art foundation dedicated to showcasing African art. This multicultural center was nestled in the small village of Bonnieux, where most visitors were locals, predominantly white. They seemed captivated by the profound African artworks, and I pondered the discussions they might engage in, the new worlds they were experiencing through these pieces, and the transformations that could occur the longer they stood in contemplation, seeking to understand lives and experiences different from their own.

Our time in Lyon was the most vibrant and arguably my favorite part of the trip. We spent two nights in France’s culinary capital, the country’s third largest city. On our first full day, we took a 30-minute journey outside the city to Tata Sénégalais de Chasselay, a cemetery and World War II memorial dedicated to nearly 200 Senegalese servicemen who were killed by German forces in 1940 in the fields surrounding the memorial. Our guide passionately recounted how France and French veterans worked to recover the soldiers’ remains and erect a memorial that stands as a symbol of their Senegalese heritage and culture.

Following our visit to Tata Sénégalais de Chasselay, we journeyed to Beaujolais for a relaxing afternoon savoring an array of wines and cheeses from the region at Domaine de Fond-Vieille before returning to the ship.

Leisure time to explore

Our itinerary included ample opportunities for leisure time, despite the numerous excursions and onboard activities planned. Many guests took full advantage of this free time.

Some guests enjoyed morning strolls with friends, leading to leisurely lunches in Arles or Avignon. Others still had enough energy to hit the town in Lyon that evening. I often stepped away from the scheduled events to explore the cities we visited, making friends with a few bartenders in Avignon and finding a companion for what felt like an endless, enchanting night in Lyon.

Target audience

In essence, the Soulful Experience river cruise itineraries are designed for all travelers, not just those of Black heritage. They highlight Black and African cultures, offering a dynamic perspective on the history and heritage of the destinations visited during the journey.

Key information

The upcoming departures for the Colors of Provence Soulful Experience are scheduled for June 13 and June 17, 2024, with prices starting at $4,999 per person.

The inaugural journey in Egypt, titled the Secrets of Egypt & the Nile Soulful Experience, is set to launch on May 17, 2024, with prices beginning at $5,299 per person.

Additionally, the latest itinerary in Portugal, known as the Enticing Douro Soulful Experience, will set sail on November 13, 2024, with fares starting at $3,799 per person.