Bozcaada: A Pristine Island Paradise in the Aegean

The journey to Bozcaada from Geyikli port on Turkey’s mainland takes just about thirty minutes, with the shimmering Aegean Sea providing a stunning backdrop along the way.

As the island of Bozcaada comes into view, its striking landmark, Bozcaada Castle, stands tall, a powerful symbol of the island’s rich history stretching back to ancient times.

The Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans have all left their mark here. The island also appears as Tenedos in Homer’s ‘Iliad.’

Much of the island’s charm remains unchanged through the ages, especially in its ability to offer peaceful retreats that feel untouched by the modern world.

As you stroll through the island’s charming cobblestone streets, remnants of its Greek heritage are everywhere – from the old stone houses to the taverns with wooden tables and chairs serving fresh seafood, meze, rakı, and wine each evening.

Rising above the terracotta roofs of the town, the bell tower of the 19th-century Church of St. Mary, one of the last remaining Orthodox churches on the island, stands tall and proud.

In the main square, locals gather to sip coffee and nibble on pastries at Petit Café, while just a few streets away, visitors are lost in the pages of books and magazines at Bozcaada Kitapçısı (Bozcaada Bookshop).

The Scent of Wine

At night, spots like Salhane – a former slaughterhouse painted in vibrant lemon-yellow, with views of both the sea and the castle – become gathering places for locals and visitors to sip local wines or enjoy creative cocktails.

Wine is another key part of Bozcaada’s identity, with a winemaking tradition that dates back nearly 3,000 years. Today, both old and new vintners continue to uphold this heritage, showcasing indigenous grape varieties such as Çavuş, Vasilaki, Kuntra, and Karalahna.

Lale Street is the heart of the island’s wine scene, with the unmistakable aroma of local wines filling the air. It’s here that the Talay wine shop and production facility, operating since 1948, can be found.

A few steps away, Amadeus, run by Austrian winemaker Oliver Gareis, offers wine tastings, while Çamlıbağ, a family-run winery dating back to 1925, is now operated by the fourth generation.

The island’s most renowned vineyard remains Corvus, founded in 2002 by architect Reşit Soley. His efforts not only revived Bozcaada’s winemaking heritage but also elevated it to international acclaim, earning numerous awards.

In 2021, it was Bozcaada’s rich winemaking history and Soley’s dedication that inspired budding winemaker İlke Yasa to join Corvus vineyards, nestled by Tuzburnu Bay – one of the island’s picturesque swimming spots.

“For me, the best time to visit is in April, May, September, and October,” says İlke Yasa. “August is the peak season, coinciding with the grape harvest. During the day, we work under the sun among the vines, and at night, we gather on remote beaches where no cars can reach. Bonfires are lit, and the night is filled with dancing.”

“The Bozcaada Jazz Festival transforms the entire island into an open-air concert hall. It's a magical time when people from all over gather for great music, lively conversations, and plenty of rakı and wine.”

Unforgettable Sunsets

Perched atop one of the island’s highest points, the Sunset Houses offer stunning views of the sea, nestled between the valley and the vibrant hues of dusk that bathe the landscape in a warm orange glow.

By night, the sky above is a blanket of stars, and the only sound comes from the shifting winds, a reminder that you’re on an island deep in the Aegean Sea.

During the day, the island’s network of hiking trails winds through vineyards and orchards, where figs, pomegranates, and olives flourish. The air is filled with the fragrant aromas of rosemary, wild oregano, and sage.

For all these reasons and more, Bozcaada remains one of the most untouched gems of the Aegean. When the pandemic hit in 2020, it became a sanctuary for many city-dwellers craving space and a deeper connection with nature.

During this time, Sinan Sökmen – the founder and CEO of the award-winning travel agency Istanbul Tour Studio – and his wife Seda Domaniç, the founding editor-in-chief of Vogue Turkey, made the decision to purchase a home on the island.

Having met and married on Bozcaada, their strong emotional ties to the island, combined with its unspoiled beaches and fresh, locally inspired cuisine, made their decision even more compelling.

“We especially love Sulubahçe Beach in the early mornings, where it feels like you’ve stumbled upon a secluded corner of the Maldives,” says Domaniç. She recommends enjoying a leisurely Turkish breakfast at Rengigül, where chef Türkan Çim Işık serves up seasonal salads, pastries, and island-made jams that showcase the best of the month’s harvest.

Vibrant Street Parties

She continues: “We also enjoy a late seafood lunch or an early dinner at Yalova Restaurant; savor homemade Turkish specialties like mantı, çiğ börek, and zeytinyağlı dolma at Hanımeli; indulge in a chef’s tasting menu at Maya vineyard; sip cocktails at Sapa; and wrap up the night with music and DJ sets at 49 Polente, which often transforms into a lively street party.”

Tucked behind a bright red door of a stone house dating back to 1876, one of the island’s most captivating collections can be found. The Bozcaada Museum houses over 15,000 photographs, maps, documents, and artifacts that tell the island’s story through the ages.

In 1988, antiquarian Hakan Gürüney discovered a black-and-white etching of Tenedos and four postcards at a second-hand bookstore in Istanbul. This sparked an extensive and passionate quest to gather anything related to the island’s history.

In 2005, he established the museum to showcase his extensive collection, which includes both personal donations and contributions from islanders who understood the value of sharing their family stories.

Upstairs, each room tells the tale of the island’s significant historical moments. Down in the basement, glass cases display a variety of everyday island relics, from old groceries and toys to vintage wine bottles and more.

Once the ferry departs for the mainland, the islanders once again return to their quiet lives, distanced from the visiting crowds.

As summer winds down, most shops and taverns close their doors, leaving the streets to the locals. They go about their routines, perhaps reflecting on the past or looking forward to the future, when the island will once again be filled with visitors seeking a brief escape into isolation.