“Brace Yourself!” White Water Rafting on the Nile

Finding yourself tumbling under a deluge of white water rapids on the Nile River isn’t the best moment to ponder: Did my guide mention there are or aren’t man-eating crocodiles and hippos lurking in the water?

Just moments before, I was seated at the front of the raft alongside another passenger and a couple of guides. We had already navigated a series of Class IV and V rapids with names like Overtime, Retrospect, Novocaine, and Itanda (translated as “The Bad Place”). Despite the raft bouncing like a wild seesaw, we managed to stay onboard. However, at this particularly turbulent junction, a surge of water crashed against our starboard side, and before my guide could utter “Brace yourself!”, I was launched into the air.

Not that I was submerged for long—thanks to a reliable life jacket, my helmeted head quickly surfaced from the Nile, gasping and cursing. Moments later, I found myself gripping one of the three inflatable safety kayaks, being pulled back to the main raft.

“That wasn’t too bad, was it?” the lead guide remarked as he pulled me back in and handed me a paddle. “Ready to continue?”

I traveled to eastern Uganda to experience Wildwaters Lodge, a unique setup on a private 2.5-acre island nestled in the heart of the Nile River, near Jinja. The lodge features 10 individual stilted suites, each boasting high thatched roofs, a canopied king bed and daybed, plus a deck with a private clawfoot soaking tub that overlooks the river.

A few miles upstream, the powerful Nile River emerges from Lake Victoria, flowing over 4,000 miles like a heartbeat through northeastern Africa before emptying into the Mediterranean Sea near Egypt. In certain areas, like the western side of the island, the river flows as smoothly as a conveyor belt (making access to the island easy via a metal skiff). However, on the eastern shore, where rocks and erosion have created fluctuating water levels and speeds, the river turns into an unpredictable, swirling vortex. Signs around the island caution visitors to stay away from the river’s edge.

Before I booked my stay at Wildwaters Lodge, I was unaware that the Nile has its origins in Uganda (or that it traverses or borders 11 African countries). All I knew was that it was a tranquil river in Egypt, popular for leisurely cruises. Historically, its waters were used for fishing and supporting agriculture. Over time, it evolved into a vital transportation and trade route. Only in recent decades has it begun to gain recognition as a premier white water rafting destination.

My room, suite 10, hangs over one of Uganda's largest and most perilous rapids, where the water swirls and churns like a pot of soup on the brink of boiling—both mesmerizing and nerve-wracking. While the western region is famous for gorilla and chimpanzee treks, this area is more renowned for adventure sports—mountain biking, kayaking, bungee jumping, and of course, river rafting on the Nile. Even with that knowledge, I had hoped that lounging in my open-air bathtub with a book would be the most immersive experience I’d encounter. At least, that’s what I told the lodge manager during lunch on my first day.

“Everyone loves the rafting,” he replied with a knowing smile, adding, “Just go, and you’ll see. And don’t worry, the water is warm.”

Warm is about 75 degrees, though that wasn’t my main concern. The next morning, I found myself signing a safety waiver and reviewing the names of the rapids—curiously lacking names like “Kiddie Pool” or “Lazy River,” instead featuring ominous names like “Vengeance” and “Pandemic”—on the route map. Was it too late to back out?

We were partnering with Adrift Uganda, a company with over 30 years of experience hosting everyone from locals to royalty (Prince William participated in 2003) and even Jedi Masters (Ewan McGregor visited in 2009). Alongside our two raft guides, three others would accompany us in inflatable kayaks for added safety.

As we set off, our lead guide informs us that white water rafting on the Nile in Uganda is considered one of the finest experiences globally. The 12-mile stretch we would tackle combines tranquil sections filled with forested islands—home to river otters, monitor lizards, cuckoos, and turacos—with exhilarating rapids and sudden drops. (He also assures us there are no crocodiles or hippos in this area, though the reassurance unfortunately doesn’t stick.)

The first rapid is gentle—only a Class II—and we bounce over the lightly churning water like popcorn kernels in hot oil. Just as I begin to think this could be a breeze, we near a formidable rapid named Big Brother. Well before we reach the brink, I can feel the water pulling us forward. Amidst the thunderous roar, our guide shouts for everyone to “Get down!” I tuck my head, grip the safety rope tightly, and brace myself for the plunge as we fly over the edge.

In a split second, we’re submerged. Not out of the raft—just momentarily engulfed by a massive wave. The raft careens between several rocks for a few seconds before we’re propelled into calmer waters. If it weren’t for my wet hair stuck to my face, you might not have guessed what had just happened.

“High five!” our guide exclaims, raising his oar. We all touch paddles in the air and laugh. I can feel the tension in my shoulders ease, and my confidence rise. Yes, this is exhilarating chaos, but it’s undeniably enjoyable.

As we continued our journey down the river, the surroundings were mostly tranquil. We encountered pairs of African fish eagles basking on rocks, small villages where children waved from the banks, fishermen in dugout canoes, and expansive stretches of lush jungle. At one point, a guide sliced up a pineapple, and we lounged on the edges of the raft, enjoying the sweet treat and soaking up the sun.

Whenever we approached a set of rapids, our leader would guide us on when and how hard to paddle, and after we emerged on the other side, we celebrated by clapping our oars together.

Aside from my unexpected tumble into the river, we only left the boat once—to navigate around a particularly treacherous Class VI rapid that was too dangerous for amateurs like us (although one of the safety kayakers effortlessly glided over it, as if it were a bunny hill and he a black-diamond skier).

I’m not sure if it was pure exhilaration or just relief, but I felt a surge of joy as we disembarked. As we made our way back to the lodge—me soaked, sunburned, a bit bruised, and somehow missing both a hair tie and a nose ring—the manager looked up from his desk and shared a knowing smile. He could have asked how it went, but he already knew.

How to Get There

Arrive at Entebbe International Airport in Uganda's capital and either rent a car or hire a driver. It's roughly a 2.5-hour drive to Wildwaters Lodge.

Accommodation Options

The lodge features 10 spacious stilted cabins situated on a private island in the heart of the Nile River.

Shared amenities include a restaurant and bar where meals are served, an infinity pool, a circular library, and an indulgent massage platform located over a tranquil section of the river.

Wildwaters Lodge is managed by Lemala, a company known for its boutique camps in both Tanzania and Uganda.

Meet Our Guides

Adrift has been conducting rafting excursions on the Nile River since 1996. On the day of your adventure, their guides will pick you up directly from Wildwaters Lodge. The tours are priced at $140 per person and usually last between four to five hours. Guests can select between a gentler Class III route or the more exhilarating Class V challenge. All excursions include life jackets, helmets, and necessary rafting gear.